I touched the ground and remote wire together how can i fix

may have to check fuse might be low or find a better ground area to place ground cord at

OK ! FIRST THINGS FIRST. DID U TEST THE AMP FIST. BEFORE U STARTED INSTALLING RCA CABLES,AND REMOTE WIRES. LETS DO THAT FIRST.GRAB YOUR AMP.SET IT ON YOU WORK BENCH ,TABLE,OR CHAIR.THEN GET (2)PIEACES OF #10 OR #12 WIRE W/1 OF THE WIRES HAVING A 20AMP FUSEABLE LINK ON IT.NOW THE WIRE W/THE FUSEABLE LINK ON IT.CONN THE REMOTE(REM) AND THE 12v + ON THE AMP AND HOOK THEM BOTH TOGETHER ON 1 SIDE OF THAT FUSEABLE LINK WIRE. AND THE OTHER WIRE HOOK IT UP THE - GROUND SIDE OF THE AMP .NOW PICK UP YOUR AMP OPEN UP YOUR HOOD.MAKING SURE THAT NO WIRES OR THE AMP IS TOUCHING THE + 12V OF THE BATTERY. NOW CONN YOUR GROUND TO GROUND AND THE FUSEABLE LINK ON THE +12v SIDE OF THE BATTERY.NOW THE AMP SHOULD HAVE CAME ON. LOOK 4 A SOLID RED LIGHT OR ANY SIGNS OF A SOLID LIGHT THAT HAD CAME ON.

Ahh you need to re-learn the remote find the wire under the dash that needs to be grounded hold on ground then cycle the remote

you want to tie your red and yellow wire together and keep your ground wich is black away from those two wires open the hood of your vehicle take the the wires that are tied together touch to you postive post on your battery and the ground to the vehicles ground it should turn on

If you found two wires, they both attach to the horn pad on the wheel...Unless there is something wrong with the horn or relay, touching them together should make the horn blow. The pad is two separate plates. When you push on the pad the two plates come together and make contact just like touching the wires together. Hot wire the horn to the battery and test it, then check the horn relay if the horn itself works, but touching the wires together or grounding either of them dosen't work..

Check all wire connections,where they connect to the switch- to the motor-and to each other sounds like a bad ground

12 VOLT FROM THE BATTERY SOURCE GOES TO 12VOLT BATT CONNECTION.12 VOLT GROUND RETURN MUST BE FIXED TO THE FRAME OF THE VEHICLE.SOME VEHICLES HAVE FACTORY GROUNDS UP HIGH ON THE SIDES OF MOST VEHICLES, U CAN USE THIS GROUND LOCATION. IF CONNECT REMOTE WIRE FROM THE RADIOS REMOTE TURN ON LEAD WHICH IS A BLUE/WHITE WIRE OR A STANDARD BLUE IF ITS JUST ONE BLUE WIRE. CONNECT THIS LEAD TO THE REMOTE TURN ON CONNECTION ON THE AMP , SOME KENWOODS HAVE TWO ,INPUT AND OUTPUT LEADS.U ALSO NEED A TEST LIGHT, OR U CAN USE A SPEAKER TO TEST FOR POWER AT UR CONNECTION.IF U USE A TEST LIGHT , CLAMP THE END U WOULD GROUND TO THE VEHICLE, TO THE AMPS GROUND, THEN TOUCH THE PROBE END OF THE TEST LIGHT TO UR WIRED CONNECTION TO VERIFY U HAVE POWER AND GROUND TO YOUR CONNECTION.IF TEST LIGHT DOESN'T WORK ,CHECK UR FUSE AND REMOTE TURN OR LEADS.

If the amp is in protect mode, it probably has shorted output transistors. To eliminate other possible problems, do the following. I'll assume that you've checked the amplifier's on-board fuses.

With your multimeter set to DC volts, the black meter lead on the ground terminal of the amp (not on the point where the ground wire connected to the vehicle) and the head unit on (so the amp will have remote voltage applied), touch the red lead alternately to the B+ and remote terminals of the amp. If the voltage is below ~11 volts, you need to check the wiring feeding whichever line is too low.

If the voltage remains near or above 12v, disconnect all speaker wires from the speaker terminals of the amp and disconnect signal cables from the amp. If it powers up, the wiring needs to be checked. If it still shuts down, the amp almost certainly has shorted output transistors and will need to be repaired.

Let me know if you have any other questions.

Usually, protect mode is enabled when the speaker output wiring has shorted together or is touching ground/+12V. I would verify that none of the speaker wiring has come loose.

The Amplifiers Positive to ground will only hurt the wire to the battery, and blow the main fuse near the battery.  Check the main fuse near the battery.