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Bose life style modle 5 system

How to assemble 1996 bose life style 5 system (put together)

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

Hi there,
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: life style error codes 801 & 802

Hi, I had the same problem, they had to replace my harddrive and the dvd, lost all my music, 145 cds, just got it back, it now works fine,

good luck

jps

Posted on Jan 18, 2008

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SOURCE: Bose Cube Speakers separated

Ok…

I had the same problem with a Bose separated double-cube Acoustimass speaker/array but was able to fix it as follows:

Tools:
small, thin, flat-head screwdriver
large pliers
C-clamp

Instructions:
1. Disconnect the speaker wires from the cube.
2. Remove the grille from the top speaker cube. It just pops off.
3. Insert a small, thin, flat-head screwdriver around the perimeter of the speaker. You will have to pry lightly to break the glue’s seal.
4. Using a set of pliers (large, plumber-sized) wiggle the speaker until it comes free. You might need to grip it top to bottom and then left to right. The speaker will come free of the case.
5. Remove the white insulation to get a clear view of the dislodged brace/connector.
6. Stack the top and bottom cubes. Make sure that the rubber seal between the cubes is seated properly and that the black and white cables are not pinched.
7. Using the C-clamp, compress the brace/connector until it seats on one side. Loosen the C-clamp and compress the opposite side. The brace/connector should snap into place. Be sure the make sure that you do not pinch the speak wires that are running through the center of the brace/connector.
8. Test the articulation. It should be the same as your other speakers.
9. Replace the white insulation in the back of the speaker case.
10. Press the speaker into the case’s face. If you wish, you can apply your preference of glue to the edge of the speaker prior to pressing it into the case.
11. Snap the grille onto the speaker.
12. Connect the speaker wires to the cube and you are done.

You should be good to go.

Posted on May 17, 2008

SOURCE: Lifestyle 28 System

All the manuals are available online at Bose web site

http://www.bose.com/controller?event=VIEW_STATIC_PAGE_EVENT&url=/customer_service/owners/guides/home_theater_system.jsp

PP

Posted on Sep 13, 2008

  • 85 Answers

SOURCE: primary winding is busted and need to know secondary winding

tda 2040 are a cheap aschips

Posted on Jan 09, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Bose Life style Model 5

I just went through a similar problem. Everything on the LifeStyle 5 receiver worked fine but no display. Mine is the version "2V" as shown on the serial number label on the bottom. I just replaced the C17 capacitor with a 47uF / 35V one from Radio Shack. For those of you who have been searching for a solution you've probably noticed that for the other console version you'll either have to replace the C16 or C19. For myself on the "2V" version it was the C17.

Note, I have never really done anything electrical like this before and it IS possible to do yourself (actually helps if you have a second set of hands at times).

Supplies from Radio Shack -

  1. 25W soldering iron ($8.79)
  2. Copper desolder braid ($3.99)
  3. 1/2 oz rosin core solder ($2.19)
  4. 47uF 35V capacitor ($1.19)

Here's what I did....

1. Remove the 4 screws on the back panel with a philips head screwdriver.
2. Remove the main cover (non-cd side). Use a small flathead screwdriver to push in the 3 gray tabs on the back panel and lift up so that it prys open toward the front of the unit. Take this main cover off.
3. Remove the cover on the cd side. Use that small flathead screwdriver to push in the 2 black tabs on the back panel and lift up so that it prys open toward the front of the unit. Take this cd cover off. Both top covers should now be off so you're looking at the circuit boards.
4. Remove the top circuit board. It is just held in by a few tabs. Note, I didn't disconnect any wires, ribbons, etc. I just removed the circuit board from the tabs that keep it secure and let it rest loosely on top.
5. Remove the bottom circuit board. I found this to be the trickiest step and needed an extra set of hands to hold up the top circuit board while I worked my fingers around the bottom circuit board to release it from the tabs. I also used pens (hey, at least I'm honest) as levers to keep the bottom circuit board from falling back down and getting re-secured by the tabs. Part of my problem was not recognizing there was an additional tab in the middle of the circuit board holding it down. Just be patient and keep working it. Probably took me like 10-15 minutes just to get this board removed from the tabs. Again, like the top circuit board, I didn't disconnnect any wires, ribbons, etc. I just removed the circuit board from the tabs that keep it secure.
6. Remove the C17 capacitor. Flip over the bottom circuit board and double check to make sure you're about to remove the correct capacitor. The C17 is located near the bottom left of the circuit board. (Someone else gave me the tip to make sure that when I put in the new capacitor I had the proper polarity. I'll revisit this in the next step, but at the time I was about to remove the existing C17 I just put a mark on the outside of the capacitor so I knew how it was aligned on the board. I used copper desolder braid and the soldering iron to remove the solder from the existing capacitor. I then just pulled the existing capactor out and the holes in the circuit board looked clear.
7. Install the new C17 capacitor. I noticed that the capacitors had a different color vertical band on them. Right or wrong, I used this as a guide for me to determine the polarity when installing the new one. I just put the new one in the same way as the old one (with respect to where this different colored band was and the mark I had made on the old one) and pulled the leads through the holes in the circuit board until it seemed tight enough against the circuit board. I bent the leads back (but not broken off) to hold it in place while I soldered the connection. Once I finished soldering the connection I cut off the excess from the leads with wire cutters.
8. Test the display. You don't need to re-secure the circuit boards to test it out. I believe I just flipped it over and connected the FM antenna and the AC power cords to their respective connections in the back and it worked!
9. Reassemble the console. This was much easier than the disassembly and was essentially the steps above in reverse order. Just put the bottom circuit board back in and secure it with the tabs (including the one in the center). Then do the same for the top circuit board. Put the cd cover back on until it snaps into the tabs. Do the same for the main cover. Put the 4 screws back in and you're done! Good luck!

Posted on Feb 15, 2009

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PP

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