Can I use contact cement super strong adhesive to apply artificail nails on my hand

Question edited for clarity.
Question moved from Spanish car company Seat category. Pronounced 'See-At'.

Use good quality contact adhesive. Paint both sides, wait 5 minutes, press together and 24 hours to cure. They do a small tin with brush

Heavy Duty Contact Cement - LePage.ca

https://www.lepage.ca > ... > Contact Cement
BONDS ON CONTACT · Adhesive dries quickly and bonds on contact to eliminate the need for clamping ; SUPERIOR COVERAGE · Provides coverage that is 1.5 times better ...

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experience has shown that most contact cements are hopeless in this situation
I find that liquid nails or a sicaflex construction adhesive sealant to be effective
both available from the hardware shop in tube or smaller packets.
follow the instructions
works well also for shoes where the sole comes loose.

Super Glue is a cyanoacrylate adhesive. It's impervious to water, but can be dissolved with an organic solvent, such as acetone. Some nail polish removers contain acetone, but be sure to check the label, since many acetone-free products are available and will not work against Super Glue. It's also possible to find pure acetone in stores that sell home supplies or art supplies, because acetone is a useful solvent.

The best thing to use is contact cement or super 77 spray adhesive. Put either one on both surfaces, let dry, set it back on and use painters tape to hold on for 24 hrs.

First you will need to remove all old adhesives. Fingernail polish remover will remove a lot, but silicone requires scraping, and cleaning with a nail file or such. Then use contact cement. Check the label to find one that is heat and moisture proof.

OPI Crystal Nail File & Block Nail Buffer - Grab 2 or three different grits. Get a 4 sided buffer block as well.

2Nail Prep & IBD Natural Nail Primer - This draws all the oils/moisture off your natural nail so the acrylic adheres.

3Acrylic Nail Brush Set - Small ones are a little easier to control. Grab what you feel most comfortable with.

4Monomer Acrylic Liquid - There is actually a primerless acrylic, I haven't tried it yet.

5Acrylic Tips - There is a huge selection here, pick the ones that you like. I go for the semi opaque nude ones.

6Acrylic Nail Powder - This matters. The cheaper powders turn yellow with age and with UV light exposure. This means tanning beds or natural sunlight. There is more 'lifting' when a cheaper powder is used.

7Nail Lacquer - A base coat, a color, and a top coat.

To make life easier, you can pick up a pre-made kit like ASP Acrylic Nail Sculpture Kit that includes all of these supplies or save some money and just purchase a few things at a time. These tend to be a bit on the cheaper side (quality wise) but are great for quick acrylic nails. Or you can buy the professional kit like, IBD Professional Gel Kit

Professional supplies can be bought online easily or at a store with a cosmetologists' license.

• 1OPI Crystal Nail File & Block Nail Buffer - Grab 2 or three different grits. Get a 4 sided buffer block as well.
  
• 2Nail Prep & IBD Natural Nail Primer - This draws all the oils/moisture off your natural nail so the acrylic adheres.
  
• 3Acrylic Nail Brush Set - Small ones are a little easier to control. Grab what you feel most comfortable with.
  
• 4Monomer Acrylic Liquid - There is actually a primerless acrylic, I haven't tried it yet.
  
• 5Acrylic Tips - There is a huge selection here, pick the ones that you like. I go for the semi opaque nude ones.
  
• 6Acrylic Nail Powder - This matters. The cheaper powders turn yellow with age and with UV light exposure. This means tanning beds or natural sunlight. There is more 'lifting' when a cheaper powder is used.
  
• 7Nail Lacquer - A base coat, a color, and a top coat.
  

A tutorial on acrylic nail application
With supplies in hand...lets begin

• 1Wash your hands.
  
• 2Trim and file your nails short.
  
• 3Use a soft/fine nail file to remove the shine off your nails - don't go too hard - this is just to scuff up the surface so everything can adhere to the nail surface.
  
• 4Gently push back your cuticles - you may want to soak your nails in soapy warm water to make them softer and easier to push back.
  
• 5Apply nail prep also called nail primer - it is a brush on solution that removes the moisture and oil from your natural nail. Allowing the acrylic to better adhere to your nail bed and not peel off a few days later.
  
• 6Apply nail tips that fit each nail with adhesive. Super glue is generally provided in kits with the acrylic tips.
  
• 7Clip the acrylic tip to your desired length and file the edges smooth. There ARE special cutters to cut acrylic tips, its probably best for you to pick one up, they are very cheap on ebay and will prevent you from bending or creating dents in the acrylic tips.
  
• 8Reapply another coat of nail prep - this will again dry out the nail to allow for better adhesion
  

Dip your brush in monomer; drag along the side of the container to remove excess liquid. Now drag a line through the acrylic powder and a ball will form. Watch this ball as the liquid soaks up into the powder. Once a jelly like substance has formed, place that on the line where the acrylic tip and natural nail meet. This will deposit the thickest coat and now you can push the acrylic up to the cuticle and nail tip. Smooth it as best you can, use light delicate strokes. Multiple layers can be applied to achieve smoothness. Also note - this step doesn't have to be perfect as we will file the acrylic down to shape.

10Acrylic dries fairly quickly. Once you have applied all the desired coats, file down the top of the nail smooth. Use a coarser grit to start and then work your way down to a very fine grit. This remove scratches in the acrylic and make the nail appear smooth once polish is applied.

sorry it was so long.hope that helps

Hi jab500...
I would recommend a good adhesive such as 3m Weatherstrip Cement or Contact Cement to glue the gasket in place. Use a small amount of cement, in case you want to replace the seal in later times.
By glueing the gasket in place with cement it will not come loose during use.
Please take time to rate me

There is a setting to use that sets for using either sticks or by hands. If a single pad is thee problem, likely the sensor has come loose. Most of these use a piezo disc pickup and this may have separated from the pad. Open unit carefully and check for this visually. If separated, try to analyze what type adhesive was used. It is likely a contact cement. If so, clean surfaces of residue and use contact cement following the direction. Let dry overnight per the label on the cement. Be careful of the cables in the unit when opening. Keep track of which screws go where. They sometimes have different lengths and threads.

I don't know what type of sander you are speaking about it just says generic ALL PORTER CABLE SANDERS. You got to be a little more specific. If it is a disk sander use 3M disk adhesive. It is a contact cement. spread some on the rubber backing disk with your hand, let dry then apply the sanding disk. After the disk is clogged, peel it off and apply another disk. when the adhesive won't hold anymore disks, re-apply the adhesive.

You could try contact cement.
If it's attached to a metal strip I would use screws on it though. Not sure of what kind/brand of weather stripping you are using.