Vl1918 it poweres on and shuts off.repeat

My VL1918 does the same- pings like a submarine and flashes on and off. I got the three 470uF 25V caps and replaced them-- in about 45 minutes my monitor was working again. I figured I had nothing to loose, it was going in the trash so I gave it a shot.

Looks like the caps are in the power supply- many monitors have an external power supply- would have been a smart move in this case. anyway this was a fairly easy fix- the caps I bought cost 39 cents each.

Had the same problem with mine, on and off making sound.Read other blogs and pulled it apart, found the three caps on the pwr supply. Pulled out pwr supply, ran down to local electronic store picked up new ones, I got 470uf 35v caps, went home and repaired it in 30 min..Back up and working like new for $5.00
Just note when taking out bad caps and installing new ones you pay close attention to the pos and neg markings on the caps, they must go in the right way....

I had the same problem with my Princeton Monitor..cycleing off and on.....you can order the kit...which I did...and you get a pack of capacitors (3) and one black and white piece of paper with very simple instructions...for about $35.00....but basically your paying for the knowledge...I'm so far away from any type of electrical knowledge you can't imagine...however if I can do it so can you....It took my about 30 minutes and I was back running...I'm glad I remember because the monitor has just started cycleing again...so guess what..this time 3 capacitors at Radio Shack and presto...back in business... hopefully...Their is an obvious problem with this model of monitor that's causing this problem. and it's seem to be re - occur..

I just resolved this issue on my VL1918. The issue is that three capacitors are blown - all 470uF 25V. You can get the blow by blow and caps from http://www.lcdpart.com/Products/vl1918.html. Alternatively, you can just buy the caps and figure out how to open it yourself. You are really paying for the knowledge than anything else, since the caps are dirty cheap. I'm planning on buying a couple more dead VL1918's with this issue and repairing them - good deal for only 30 min work!

To the person that had only 2 470 uf capacitors. --- I've had the same problem. You need to replace the 2 470 uf capacitors but also, you need to replace the 2 220 uf capacitors that are next to the 470 uf capacitors. I relace these 4 (2-470 and 2 -220 uf) and the screen was fixed.

I'm no expert by any means, yet this worked perfectly the first try.
I was unsure about Radio Shack, which only offer 470 / 35v vs. the 470 / 25v that came with the circuit; all worked perfectly.

If you can plug in a soldering iron then you can do this; I did have to buy some thinner solder (.022 inch diameter) as the stuff I had was too thick.

Don't throw the monitor out!

Here's a link that has some nice pictures to go with the instructions.

http://www.thisoldtractor.com/gtbender/princeton_graphics_vl1918_monitor_repair.htm

Just another voice to say that the solution provided here by others does indeed work.

Had same symptoms: screen comes on for about a second, a metallic popping sound occurs, screen shuts off for about a second, repeat. Problem occurs even if monitor is not plugged into computer (thus isolating it to monitor). Monitor purchased from Costco approximately two years ago.

Found 3 suitable 470uF 35V capacitors at the local Radio Shack for a little over $4 (more pricy than online, but no shipping cost, so it's a wash) Entire repair took less than 30 minutes.

The repair itself is already covered pretty well by others here, so I'll just add some disassembly instructions:

Set the monitor face down on a towel to protect screen. Remove 4 Phillips screws securing base to back of monitor, set base aside. Remove 3 Phillips screws from bottom edge of monitor cover. With flat screwdriver carefully pry along the other 3 edges to disengage the catches (about 3 per edge). Remove back cover. Identify the raised metal shroud containing the power supply module at center. Carefully lift one side of each piece of foil tape to expose connectors (for the short pieces of tape it's easier to remove the side that's laying flat, for the long piece at the top of the monitor, it's easier to remove the side that's vertical on the power module). Disconnect all cables, noting how to replace them later. Remove 4 Phillips screws securing the power module. Remove the power module and set the rest of the monitor aside. Flip the power module over, orient it such that the plastic covering is on the left (done only so that these instructions make sense). Carefully pull up the plastic cover from the right circuit board near the center of the power module, you can leave it attached to the metal shroud at the left side (it is difficult to remove from the metal without damaging it). Gently bend (without crimping) the plastic back and out of the way and remove the 4 Phillips screws securing the left circuit board (the one with the power connector). You will need a small "jeweler's" screwdriver for one of the screws - make note where that screw goes (top right of circuit board, or top center of overall module, when oriented as I did). Slightly tilt the left side of the circuit board up, and slide the circuit board out and to the left, over the bent back plastic, disengaging a connector from the neighboring board.

Then perform repair, and reassemble in reverse order.

Thanks to all who posted the original solution!!

This is a great website. I had my VL1918 disassembled already when I went searching on the internet & found you all. I heard the internal noise, prior to this & had let this nice LCD monitor sit in my garage for about 6 months til now. When I had the thing open, I was searching for physical signs of component failure, & only found the 470uf caps were a little bulged out on top. After the advice herein, I went to Frys in Wilsonville, OR to find some caps, all they had were 50v versions ($2.48 each). I hoped they weren't too large, but figured the higher voltage rating will be better. I turned on the monitor before final assembly, & it worked, so I worked on final assembly. I had a box of fiber washers & found some that were 1/8" tall, and that gave me the ability to get the power supply board finally screwed down. Put it all back together & it works again. Yeah!. I won't have to use it for target practice after all.
I had looked on the Princeton website & found that this model, purchased @Costco only had a one year warranty. I only got two years & a little more out of it. All their new models have 3 year warranties. I hope to now get another 10 years out of this one.

3each 470uf 50v capacitors worked!; even though I think only one was really completely bad, they should have used 35v caps in this power supply. (design flaw)

I say Bully to all of you!!!

I resolved the problem the lcd was replaced with a sony 22 inches and i bought the guarraty for 2 years a 50 dlls for any kind of problems.
wide screen with speakers.

Is better to buy good brands.
thank you

Crist

This solution worked for me perfectly. Thank you very much to all who posted this solution. The link and photos on the Gregory Bender site were also very reassuring.

wow At work they were throeing away this very monitor. I spent $4.90 on 3 caps. I am now using same monitor to say way cool...

I can now store this when it is needed thanks for the help from you all.

this is neat really neat

Thanks

I just want to say thank you to all of you that posted this information. About 30 years ago I worked in the electronics industry. The company I worked for built PC boards for modems. When I read the symtoms that others posted and suggested fixes I was not intimidated. I thought after all I am going to have to replace it if I don't fix it anyway. I went to Radio Shack, bought the capacitors, a solder ****** and solder with a rosin center - I didn't need to buy flux separately. I took out my old soldering iron and went to work. I am happy to know that the knowledge and toucht are still there. My monitor appears to be working just fine.

So thanks everyone.
Sincerely,
Leanne

woWW wowww wubsy. this works. i was really about to throw this in the trash. I had already replaced it... thanks for the help everybuggy...

One of our monitors at work did this; as we had an extra, we just shelved the old one. However, my monitor at home (same model) started doing this but only temporarily (for about a minute after turning it on, then runs normal), so I searched for the problem (and possible solution) and found this thread.

Took apart at-work monitor in about 30 minutes, found caps (2 bulged, the other fine), contacted the local Radio Shack, and confirmed they have 6 in stock; will be picking up over the weekend and will attempt to fix (work monitor first, don't want to prematurely trash the one at home until I can replace it or know I can fix it right; 'tupid recession). Will let everyone know how it went after I'm done.

~Jimmy D.

I have replaced the Capacitors with 470uf 35 volt and now both of my monitors are working. 8 dollars saved me over 200. I did the simple switch of the three bad capacitors and now they work fine. There are several picture tutorials on the web. I had never replaced electronic components before, this was a fun project. All you need is a soldering iron.

See my comments of Jul 14th. My power board does not have 3 470 uf caps. Only 2. Replaced thlem to no avail. My monitor has a manufacturer date of May 2005. Maybee this is an earlier power board.

Any suggestions would be helpful. I just hate just throwing it in the garbage.

Thanks

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