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Check both rear wheel have their square drive keys in place, if either wheel has been removed for some reason it is easy to refit the wheel without the key in place, the drive shafts will then just rotate within the centre of the wheel.
i would guess that the belt is'nt tight enough when engaged. when you press the drive bar on the handle it should make the belt really tight if not it will need replaced. sometimes the gears in the wheels will mess up. there are videos on you tube that describe that and also the belt.
did you have a back wheel off if so make sure the key way is in place it sits in the grove of the axle and the rim its about 1/4"x1/4" x 2" long if this is missing you will have no drive also if its a auto trans check your buypass lever hope this helps
How to replace the drive belt on a Toro LX466 Lawn Tractor
1. Jack up the front of the mower-place a couple of blocks under the front wheels (retaining wall blocks from your flower bed work great). Block the back wheels so the mower won't roll off the front blocks.
Remove the battery and battery compartment from under the seat. You can now see the cooling fan blade under the seat. The belt runs from the pulley directly under the fan to the front of the tractor.
Lower the mower deck to its lowest position. Remove the deck hanger rod from the slots in the front of the mower deck.
Remove the metal rod guard below the engine pulley. It's held in place on one side with a bolt, and the other side with a cotter pin.
Take a large pair of channel lock pliers (about 18 in long work great) and clamp them down directly on the engine pulley, but not so tightly you distort the pulley.
Remove the bolt from the pulley. It's a right-handed bolt, so turn it counter-clockwise to remove.
Slide the pulley down the shaft until you can work the belt off. If the belt is too tight, then remove the spring from the idler pulley under the tractor. It's hooked on a bolt near the side of the tractor. You can remove it by grabbing the end of the spring with a pair of needle-nose vise-grips and slipping the end off the bolt. Then remove the old belt from the tractor.
Take a new belt (preferably Kevlar) and start at the back of the tractor (with the pulley under the cooling fan) and thread it through to the front of the tractor. The flat side of the belt rests against the idler pulley with the flat sides.
Work the belt over the engine pulley and slide it back on the shaft. Tighten the bolt on the engine pulley hand tight. Then check the belt to make sure it hasn't slipped out of the groove on the cooling fan pulley.
Clamp the engine pulley with the channel lock pliers and tighten the bolt.
Make sure the belt is routed correctly on the idler pulleys. If you had to remove the spring on the idler pulley, replace it. You can do this by grabbing it with the needle-nose vise-grips and placing it on the bolt-make sure it's above the washer. Then remove the vise-grips and gently pry it over with a small screwdriver until it slips into place.
Replace the metal guard below the engine pulley. Hook the mower deck back onto the deck hanger. Replace the battery compartment and battery. Unblock the mower.
Typically self-propelled mowers are propelled using the front wheels, which only turn forward. Pulling the mower back while the front wheels are turning will damage the drive gears. It's best to raise the front wheels slightly off the ground before pulling back.
"belt position not sure is correct," from your description above
The first thing to do would be make sure belt position is correct, connected and tight. This system is quite simple, the belt goes in the pulley on the engine shaft and the pulley on the transaxle only, nothing else. Using a short piece of rope or anything else readily available, temporarily tie down the safety bail (handle) and engage the drive handle. Now check your belt, it should be fairly tight and you should not be able to turn the transaxle pulley without considerable effort, if it is easy to turn, replace the belt. Now release the safety bail (handle) If the drive belt seems to be working okay as above, remove the front wheels and inspect the gear teeth in them. If the outer half of the teeth are worn down more than 1/2 the original size as compared to the inner half, replace the wheels. While you have the wheels off, if you have a couple of blocks of wood or similar items, set one under each corner of the front of the main frame outside the arch of the blade and start the engine, engage the drive and observe the pinion gears, they should both be turning. If they are not, then you have a bad transaxle and are going to have to either replace it , use it strictly as a push mower, or replace the mower.
It is quite possible that one or the other of your pinions (item 55 in parts manual) has gone bad in addition to the wheels. Start the mower, engage the drive and lift the back end just enough to clear the ground and see if both wheels turn. If only one wheel turns, attempt to stop it from turning by setting it on the ground at an angle, if the opposite wheel does not turn, you will need to inspect the pinions.
Craftsman-Husky...same tractors-built in the same factory. I also had a problem with the hydrostatic transmission not providing power to the rear wheels. Here's what Sears told me:
(1) Check to make sure the drive belt is tight both under the engine-and the tranny.
(2) Air can get into the hydrostatic transmissions-especially during shipping (new mower) and storage.
So.....
Pull your freewheel pin out to disengage the tranny-then push the mower both forward and then backwards for 50' or so. Then push the freewheel pin back in and start the mower. If the transmission then works-drive forward-then backward-then forward repeating the cycle about 4 times. Drive about 50' in each direction. This should purge the air from the treansmission.
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