How can I open the case to repair switch? - Brookstone Big Blue Live Wireless Bluetooth Speaker

Light's on the switch are controlled by the transfer case shift control module . Your best bet , take your vehicle to a qualified repair shop that has diagnostic scanner that can read code's in the module . Not OBD 2 code reader , won't work . Need factory GM tech 2 scan tool or some other professional scan tool .
DTC B2725
Circuit Description
The accessory switch circuit consists of 4 modes. The transfer case shift control module supplies 5 volts to the switch through the switch signal circuit. The current travels through the resistor of the currently active mode. The current on the switch signal circuit is monitored by the transfer case shift control module. The voltage on the switch signal circuit will vary depending on which mode button is pressed by the driver.
The transfer case shift control module constantly monitors the switch signal circuit to determine the condition of the accessory switch circuit.
When each of the modes are selected they complete a circuit through their own specific resistor. The transfer case shift control module continuously monitors the switch signal circuit to determine whether the Neutral, 2HI, 4HI, or 4LO mode was selected by the driver.

DTC Descriptor
This diagnostic procedure supports the following DTC:
DTC B2725 ATC Mode Switch Circuit Malfunction

This step test the switch signal low circuit for an open, or high resistance.
Step
Action
Values
Yes
No
Schematic Reference: Transfer Case Control Schematics
Connector End View Reference: Transfer Case Control Connector End Views
1
Did you perform the Diagnostic System Check - Vehicle?
--
Go to Step 2
Go to Diagnostic System Check - Vehicle in Vehicle DTC Information
2
With the accessory switch disconnected, connect a DMM between the low reference signal circuit and the 5-volt reference circuit at the switch.
Measure the resistance through the accessory switch while pressing and holding each of the mode buttons and comparing values.
Does the DMM indicate all resistance values within the specified ranges?
4 HI: 656.2-669.4 ohms
2 HI: 1.50-1.53 K ohms
Neutral: 1.010-1.031 K ohms
4 LO: 2.32-2.36 K ohms
Normal: 9.00-9.18 K ohms
Go to Step 3
Go to Step 6
3
Disconnect the accessory switch from the wiring harness.
Turn ON the ignition.
With a DMM, probe the 5-volt reference circuit.
Was the voltage reading within the specified values?
4.8-5.2 V
Go to Step 5
Go to Step 4
4
Test the 5-volt reference circuit for a short to voltage, a short to ground, an open, or a high resistance. Refer to Circuit Testing and Wiring Repairs in Wiring Systems.
Did you find and correct the condition?
--
Go to Step 8
Go to Step 7
5
Test the switch signal low circuit for an open or high resistance. Refer to Testing for Continuity and Wiring Repairs in Wiring Systems.
Did you find and correct the condition?
Go to Step 8
Go to Step 7
6
Replace the accessory switch. Refer to Accessory Switch Replacement in Instrument Panel, Gages and Console.
Did you complete the repair?
--
Go to Step 8
--
7
Replace the transfer case shift control module. Refer to Control Module References in Computer/Integrating Systems for replacement, setup, and programming.
Did you complete the repair?
--
Go to Step 8
--
8
Use the scan tool in order to clear the DTCs.
Operate the vehicle within the Conditions for Running the DTC as specified in the supporting text.
Does the DTC set?
--
Go to Step 2
System OK

Sounds like a bad magnatron (the part that emits microwave energy) or maybe just a bad door switch. If the door switch is bad it won't let the unit come on.

you may have a bad switch ! i could tell you how to test it ,but could be fairly lengthy . do you own a volt meter ? do you know how to use one? should also check for dtc's in transfer case control module !
transfer case shift control switch indicator inoperative - one or more
the indicator lamps circuit consist of 5 individual lamps contained inside the mode/range switch assembly. the following lamps are contained inside the respective range button:
?€¢
auto 4wd

?€¢
2hi

?€¢
4hi

?€¢
4lo

each time the ignition is cycled, all 5 mode indicators light simultaneously, as an indicator check to ensure proper operation of the indicators. when the ignition is on, the transfer case shift control module illuminates the indicator lamp that corresponds to the current atc gear position, by providing a ground through a current limiting driver.
the transfer case shift control module flashes each indicator lamp after a shift has been requested and continues to flash until the transfer case shift control module completes the shift.
a solid state circuit, located inside the switch, supplies ignition voltage to the lamps. the solid state circuit also receives voltage when the headlamp switch is in the parklamp or headlamp position. when the solid state circuit receives voltage from the headlamp switch, the circuit reduces the voltage that is supplied to the indicator lamps, dimming the lamps when the headlamps are on.
test description
the numbers below refer to the step numbers on the diagnostic table.

1. this step tests the transfer case electrical control of the lamp circuits.


2. this step helps determine module failures.


3. this step tests the affected lamp circuit for an open or high resistance.


4. this step tests the lamp feed circuit for an open or short to ground.

these diagnostic procedures will help you to find and repair automatic transfer case (atc) system malfunctions. this service category also contains information for repairing atc system malfunctions. for best results, use the diagnostic tables and follow the sequence listed below:

1. perform the diagnostic system check - transfer case. all atc diagnostics must begin with the diagnostic system check - transfer case. the diagnostic system check - transfer case determines the following:
?€¢
proper service 4wd indicator operation



?€¢
ability of the transfer case shift control module to communicate through the data link connector (dlc)



?€¢
existence of atc dtcs


2. refer to the diagnostic table as directed by the diagnostic system check - transfer case. the diagnostic tables help enable you to diagnose any atc system malfunction. bypassing these procedures may result in the following:
?€¢
extended diagnostic time



?€¢
incorrect diagnosis



?€¢
incorrect parts replacement


3. repeat the diagnostic system check - transfer case after you perform any repair or diagnostic procedure. this will verify that you correctly performed the repair. this will also ensure that other malfunctions do not exist.

DTC B0790 Transfer Case Neutral Indicator Circuit Malfunction
The Neutral indicator circuit consists of an ignition 3 voltage circuit and a Neutral indicator control circuit. When the Neutral mode has been selected by the driver, current is supplied to the Neutral indicator by the ignition 3 voltage circuit, traveling through the Neutral indicator LED at which time the transfer case shift control module supplies the ground through the Neutral indicator control circuit. This DTC detects an open, short to ground, or a short to voltage.
2
Install a scan tool.
Turn the ignition ON, with the engine OFF.
With the scan tool, command the Neutral Indicator Light ON and OFF.
Does the Neutral Indicator Light turn ON and OFF with each command?
YES - Go to Testing for Intermittent Conditions and Poor Connections in Wiring Systems
NO - Go to Step 3
Turn the ignition OFF.
Remove the transfer case select switch.
Disconnect the connector on the transfer case select switch.
Turn the ignition ON.
Probe the ignition 3 voltage circuit with a DMM that is connected to a good ground.
Does the DMM indicate battery voltage?
YES - Go to Step 4
NO - Go to Step 10

5
Does the DMM continue to indicate battery voltage with each command?
YES - Go to Step 7
NO - Go to Step 6
6
Test the neutral indicator control circuit for a short to voltage or an open. Refer to Testing for Continuity and Wiring Repairs in Wiring Systems.
Did you find and correct the condition?
YES - Go to Step 13
NO - Go to Step 9
7
Test the control circuit of the neutral indicator for a short to ground. Refer to Testing for Short to Ground and Wiring Repairs in Wiring Systems.
Did you find and correct the condition?
Go to Step 13
Go to Step 9
8
Inspect for poor connections at the transfer case shift control switch. Refer to Testing for Intermittent Conditions and Poor Connections and Wiring Repairs in Wiring Systems.
Did you find and correct the condition?
Go to Step 13
Go to Step 11
9
Inspect for poor connections at the harness connector of the transfer case shift control module. Refer to Testing for Intermittent Conditions and Poor Connections and Connector Repairs in Wiring Systems.
Did you find and correct the condition?
Go to Step 13
Go to Step 12
10
Repair the ignition 3 voltage circuit of the transfer case select switch for an open, a high resistance, or a short to ground. Refer to Circuit Testing and Wiring Repairs in Wiring Systems.
Did you complete the repair?
Go to Step 13
--
11
Replace the transfer case select switch. Refer to Transfer Case Shift Control Switch Replacement .
Did you complete the repair?
Go to Step 13
--
12
Replace the transfer case shift control module. Refer to Control Module References in Computer/Integrating Systems for replacement, setup, and programming.
Did you complete the repair?
Go to Step 13
--
13
Use the scan tool in order to clear the DTCs.
Operate the vehicle within the Conditions for Running the DTC as specified in the supporting text.
Does the DTC set?
Go to Step 2
System OK

Remove the Cabinet and replace the switch,unplug washing machine first.take off the two screws from the console carefully flip it over. remove the lidswitch connector. then remove the 2 brass brackets. slowly pull the whole case towards you. note how the front bottom goes under the washer base. ---------- The detailed procedure is as follows:--- This is an easy repair that anyone with a little know-how and determination can perform.

First of all, unplug your washer. You will need to remove the console in order to get to the lid switch. The washer may have release tabs under the console at each front corner. Simply slide a putty knife straight in from the front at each corner and push in while lifting up. You should feel the release tabs push in and the console will pop up. If not equipped with this type of console, you may have a console that has removable end caps. They can be removed by gently prying up on the top of them from the rear on each side. You may have to use a small screwdriver for this. The caps should pop right off. Once removed, you will need to loosen a screw under each cap. Once you have the console loosened, carefully lift it up and lay it back over the rear panel of the washer in its resting position. Be careful not to damage the small plastic hinges that hold it in place. Now you will need to perform the following steps:

1. Under the console you will find the lid switch connector. Unplug the switch from the connector.

2. There will be two brass colored clips. You will need to remove these to remove the machine casing. Place a flat blade screwdriver straight down into the opening on top of the washer and into the groove of the clip. Push the screwdriver away from you while holding into the groove and the clip will release.

3. Open the lid of the washer and place your hand under the front rim of the opening (DO NOT grab the wash tub). Now pull the case from the frame by lifting from the back first.

You do not have to remove it all the way from the frame, just enough to gain access to the switch. All there is to the switch is a couple of screws holding it in and a ground wire. It's a pretty easy repair job. Some models will have the switch located on the right-hand side of the lid rim opening, while other models will have the switch located on the left-hand side near the lid hinge.

Once you've completed your switch installation, make sure you get the case back on the frame correctly by following these steps:

1. While looking down through the lid opening, place the front lip of the machine case UNDER the washer frame and start leaning it back onto the frame. There are four small cleats that must fit into four slots on the case or the washer will vibrate. Make sure the frame is seated properly, lean forward from the front of the washer, grasp both sides of the rear panel and pull towards the case. The rear panel should be seated and flush with the casing before inserting the retaining clips.

2. Insert the brass-colored clips into the slot on the washer rear panel first, and then push straight down into the opening on the top of the washer with some force. If you have the case seated correctly, the clips will snap back in.

3. Make sure you plug the connector from the console back into the lid switch receptacle BEFORE you reassemble the console. This is easy to forget. ---------------------- This will help.Thanks.Helpmech.

I'd think that any of the local appliance repair shops would have an old stock of those replacement switches. Sure, maybe Amana doesn't have them, they dump old stock, but they dump them to repair shops!
In any case, any "normally open" switch can be retrofitted, even in-frame burglar alarm contacts can be used for that application. The switch when pressed IN is open, not letting power come to the bulb. When the door opens, the switch pops out and "closes" the circuit to let power to the bulb.
You may even find on available to retrofit, at Radio Shack.

The transfer case has a motor mounted on the exterior of the transfer case,and they do go bad.There is also a transfer case controller (computer) that is part of the Body Control Module (BCM) and i have seen where a malfunctioning "door" open or closed sensor would cause the transfer case controller to inhibit,or,not allow 4WD engagement.Long story short is,scan the vehicle computers for trouble codes,including the BCM,and repair any codes present.If codes are repaired and still no 4WD,test the electric motor that is mounted on the transfer case.When all external controls are operational and tested as operational,the last conclusion would be an internal transfer case malfunction,but as a last resort.This is why it is important to verify and/or repair all external controls,inputs,and commands.The particular transfer case in your Ford has an aluminum case half that is prone to wear,and i shim out the excessive end play as part of the rebuild,so overhauling it in your garage does require more than meets the eye.Good luck.

This is a common symptom of a defective lid switch. If you try opening and closing the lid and do not hear a distinctive "clicking" sound, your lid switch may need to be replaced. Some lid switches are located on the right-hand side of the lid opening with a small slot. It is activated by a plastic piece called a “lid strike” on the lid itself. Make sure the lid strike is not broken off. This will keep the switch from not working. On some model washers the lid switch is located on the left-hand side, in the rear, mounted under the casing near the lid hinge. It is activated by a rod on the lid hinge. Sometimes the rod can be adjusted if it is not making good contact with the switch. In either case, if the switch is not activated, it will allow the washer to fill and maybe agitate, but will not start the rinse or drain cycles. If you diagnose it and wish to attempt the repair yourself, the switch costs about $35 and is fairly simple to replace if you follow the steps below:

First of all, unplug your washer. You will need to remove the console in order to get to the lid switch. I believe your washer has release tabs under the console at each front corner. Simply slide a putty knife straight in from the front at each corner and push in while lifting up. You should feel the release tabs push in and the console will pop up. Or, you may have a console that has removable end caps. They can be removed by gently prying up on the top of them from the rear on each side. You may have to use a small screwdriver for this. The caps should pop right off. Once removed, you will need to loosen a screw under each cap. Once you have the console loosened, carefully lift it up and lay it back over the rear panel of the washer in its resting position. Be careful not to damage the small plastic hinges that hold it in place.

Now you will need to perform the following steps:

1. Under the console you will find the lid switch connector. Unplug the switch from the connector.

2. There will be two brass colored clips. You will need to remove these to remove the machine casing. Place a flat blade screwdriver straight down into the opening on top of the washer and into the groove of the clip. Push the screwdriver away from you while holding into the groove and the clip will release.

3. Open the lid of the washer and place your hand under the front rim of the opening (DO NOT grab the wash tub). Now pull the case from the frame by lifting from the back first.

You do not have to remove it all the way from the frame. Just enough to gain access to the switch. All there is to the switch is a couple of screws holding it in and a ground wire. It's a pretty easy repair job. NOTE: You DO NOT have to drain the tub to repair the lid switch.

Once you've completed your switch installation, make sure you get the case back on the frame correctly by following these steps:

1. While looking down through the lid opening, place the front lip of the machine case UNDER the washer frame and start leaning it back onto the frame. There are four small cleats that must fit into four slots on the case or the washer will vibrate. Make sure the frame is seated properly, lean forward from the front of the washer, grasp both sides of the rear panel and pull towards the case. The rear panel should be seated and flush with the casing before inserting the retaining clips.

2. Insert the brass-colored clips into the slot on the washer rear panel first, then push straight down into the opening on the top of the washer with some force. If you have the case seated correctly, the clips will snap back in.

3. Make sure you plug the connector from the console back into the lid switch receptacle and close the console.

I hope you find this helpful. If you have any questions or need help locating the correct part, please let me know by posting comments.

You can check various appliance repair websites for self help manuals, or you can follow these steps:


First of all, unplug your washer. You will need to remove the console in order to get to the lid switch. I believe your washer has release tabs under the console at each front corner. Simply slide a putty knife straight in from the front at each corner and push in while lifting up. You should feel the release tabs push in and the console will pop up. Or, you may have a console that has removable end caps. They can be removed by gently prying up on the top of them from the rear on each side. You may have to use a small screwdriver for this. The caps should pop right off. Once removed, you will need to loosen a screw under each cap. Once you have the console loosened, carefully lift it up and lay it back over the rear panel of the washer in its resting position. Be careful not to damage the small plastic hinges that hold it in place. Now you will need to perform the following steps:

1. Under the console you will find the lid switch connector. Unplug the switch from the connector.

2. There will be two brass colored clips. You will need to remove these to remove the machine casing. Place a flat blade screwdriver straight down into the opening on top of the washer and into the groove of the clip. Push the screwdriver away from you while holding into the groove and the clip will release.

3. Open the lid of the washer and place your hand under the front rim of the opening (DO NOT grab the wash tub). Now pull the case from the frame by lifting from the back first.

You do not have to remove it all the way from the frame. Just enough to gain access to the switch. All there is to the switch is a couple of screws holding it in and a ground wire. It's a pretty easy repair job.

Once you've completed your switch installation, make sure you get the case back on the frame correctly by following these steps:

1. While looking down through the lid opening, place the front lip of the machine case UNDER the washer frame and start leaning it back onto the frame. There are four small cleats that must fit into four slots on the case or the washer will vibrate. Make sure the frame is seated properly, lean forward from the front of the washer, grasp both sides of the rear panel and pull towards the case. The rear panel should be seated and flush with the casing before inserting the retaining clips.

2. Insert the brass-colored clips into the slot on the washer rear panel first, then push straight down into the opening on the top of the washer with some force. If you have the case seated correctly, the clips will snap back in.

3. Make sure you plug the connector from the console back into the lid switch receptacle and close the console.

I hope you find this helpful. If you have any questions please let me know by posting comments.

Have you purchased a lid switch yet? Most major appliance repair centers carry them. The price is about $35. If you have not purchased one yet, let me know what your EXACT model number is (located on the rim of the wash tub opening under the lid) and I will locate a part number for you. I hope this information helps you.