How do I hook up my satellite box inside rv. there are two wall plates. the top plate has only one coaxial hook up and the bottom plate has two with a loop coaxial cable hooking them together

Question moved from Cars and Trucks to one of the Jayco RV categories. There are 4 for 2015.

There are screws inside the unit. Check out the videos.

https://www.google.com/search?q=remove+AC+wall+unit+from+2015+Jayco+RV

.and also

https://www.google.com/search?q=AC+wall+unit+from+2015+Jayco+RV

...

Hi Kay, I presume you're referring to the water heater by-pass valves as there are no other valves beside those on the propane bottles. The water heater by-pass values are usually immediately around the water heater itself, on the inside of the RV. I believe the water heater on your RV is on the back wall, so you would look on the inside near the back likely in the area above the outside kitchen box (some times you need to remove panels).

I suggest you contact Jayco Customer Service at (800) 283-8267 if the information isn't located on builder's plate on RV interior wall or in a cabinet. Have your VIN ready to give for accurate information.

I would go with the manufacturer Forest River RV Contact Us Forest River Inc

Only answer I got for you is where ever they felt like that day. I am a rv tech and can't ever get a straight answer out of manufacturer on locations of most wiring. What I have found is it is useually around the furthest tv from the cable hookup. If you only have 2 tvs in the unit the wall plate for the antenna bossier is the splitter for the 2nd tv.

Usually need to change the setting in your TV to switch from over the air to cable.

One thing to make sure is that the cables are actually attached. Take the outside connection apart and make sure the cable is attached to the plate. I worked on RV's for years and this happens more than you think.

Manual or electric. If electric press the switch located inside the unit. If manual, you will need to go to each arm and press the release clips to unlock the arms (usually black but may be a lift up lock). Next tank the long rod with a loop on one end and a 90 deg hook on the other. Toward the front of the coach at the top of the awning you will see a small lever on the awning. Use the loop end of the rod to pull the lever down. Take the other end of the rod and insert it into the black strap that should be barely hanging down and pull down as you back away. This should pull the awning out. Once pulled out all the way, go to each end of the awning. Close to the wall of the RV there should be an arm hanging down with a knob on the back of it. Grab the bottom of the arm and slide it out and clip it into the end of the extended awning arm. Push down on the lower arm to tighten the fabric and then tighten the knob. Once both ends have been tightened then on the lower arm there will be a pull out handle in the middle, pull it out to release the lock pin and lift the outer portion of the lower arm up to raise the awning to the desired height. Repeat for the other end. If it is raining or windy put the awning away. DO NOT LEAVE IT OUT! The wind will catch it like a kite and rip it off of your trailer. Rain will fill it up like a swimming pool and collapse the center tube and trap you inside of the RV.

Many RV's are built from the inside out. Meaning that there were more than likely screws installed from the outside in. You will have to use a sonic cutter to actually cut the screw. There will also be a plethora of screws and staples installed through cleats on the inside of the cabinet. Place a piece of masking tape on the wall before using a sonic cutter to prevent finish damage.

The trailer A-Frame tongue is the first place to check. Look for a ID plate affixed to the frame near the coupler. If the ID plate isn't evident there, check the front storage compartment and look over any exposed frame members in that area. On some travel trailers, The ID plate is actually inside the trailer, inside a storage cabinet.