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Re: converting whirlpool LGR3624EQ2 back to natural gas
Hi, There should be a cap on top of the regulator that willneed to either be flipped over or there is a plunger iside the cap that will need to be reversed. The orfice on the gas valve will need to be changed as well.
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There should be a set of orifices for each burner as well as the oven and broiler. When the unit was converted to propane, these orifices should have been replaced and the ones for gas put in with the conversion kit installation information. The kit should have been reattached near the pressure regulator.
If the kit was missing the orifices, then, yes, you are missing pieces. Check with your coworker if the conversion kit was missing. If you have the kit, it can be easily done by any appliance installer (or repair person) licensed for handling NG. (At least on our range, the conversion kit installation was straight forward. Every orifice was clearly labeled with the labels different for each burner and for the gas/LP kits (ABCD (NG) vs MNOP (LP)) .) The regulator is the only part that switched for LP or NG without the kit.
As I recall, the only tools we needed for the top burners were a small wrench (10 mm) and a small flat blade screwdriver. Remove one orifice and put in the appropriate replacement. Then adjust the burners so that they didn't blow out when the oven was opened or quickly turned from high to low (for the simmer burner). The oven and broiler took a bit longer. Several screws had to be removed to get at the orifices. Then the air flow had to be adjusted for the incoming gas.
I hope this helps.
Cindy Wells (the conversion installation manual was on the counter during installation; I read it while it was open.)
Hotpoint supplies the orifices and instructions with each range for converting. It is just that it is hidden, they attach it to the gas regulator. The regulator is near the bottom back typically. Here is a cut out from your use and care manual.
CONVERTING TO LP GAS (or converting back to natural gas from LP) This range leaves the factory set for use with natural gas. If you want to convert to LP gas, the conversion must be performed by a qualified LP gas installer. The conversion instructions and LP orifices can be found attached to the range next to the pressure regulator. Keep these instructions and the orifices in case you want to convert back to natural gas.
Yes you can, but whether you should is another matter. I purchased a new dryer and needed it to be propane ready...you need to get the proper orifice (which lets the gas in to the burners) changed out. Natural gas orifice has a larger hole than a propane orifice. In addition, the regulator must be modified. It may involve flipping an insert under the cap (typical of stoves) or it may require conversion parts packed in the conversion kit (order one specific to your drier). This regulator is part of the piping within the back of the drier.
Incidentally, conversion orifice(s) should be included with the drier and screwed to the body in a clip. When you change it over and label the equipment as converted to propane, put the old natural gas orifice in the clip and screw it back onto the body. Put the instructions in a paper envelope and tape to the outside of the body of the drier.
Good day, Yes. Two reasons. The orifice that the gas comes out is a different size, and the regulator that determines gas pressure is disabled when using Propane, since propane has the regulator on the tank.
If you are not 100% sure what your doing, call a qualified company to perform the conversion. Isn't worth the gamble. Propane is, unlike natural gas, heavier than air. It can pool in a low spot then ............
First thing you will need to do is find out from the manufacturer of the oven if there is a conversion kit available and if the appliance is convertable. If there is then you can order the kit and follow the installation instructions. Also check the back of the oven for an envelope that may contain the gas orfice replacement heads to convert the appliance to natural gas. If you find the replacement orfice then you will need to remove the lp orfice from the burner and install the natural one. Then the appliance gas regulator will need to have the pressure adjusted lower for natural gas. There is usually a removable cap on top of the regulator on the oven. When you remove this cap there is usually a small metal ring that you can remove and flip over. It will say "nat" on one side and "lp" on the other. You will need to turn this ring over and re-insert so it displays "nat". This will change the gas pressure from 13 inches W.C. to 4 inches W.C. Some appliances only require the orfice change and no regulator adjustment but make sure that is the case with your oven because if you feed 13 inches W.C. pressure to a burner with a natural gas orfice...YOU WILL GET A HUGE BURNER FLAME AND MAY BURN/FLASH YOURSELF...So use extreme caution when converting a gas appliance. And if the oven has a pilot you will need to adjust the pilot pressure or change it's orfice if it has one. If it is electronic ignition no adjustment to that will be needed. Also unplug the electrical power the the unit while working on it.
The only thing you can do if Weber doesn't have a natural gas manifold for their grills , is to buy one that will fit. They use propane on outside grills because of the stability of the gas. Natural gas will blow out much easier.
GE ships gas ranges set for natural gas, with the LP orifices included, usually on a metal tab held with one screw right near the regulator (where the gas connects to the range). If the range was converted to LP, the person who did the conversion was suppose to put the natural gas orifices back in that holder. If they are missing, comment back on the exact model number and I can look up the part number(s) for you.
In most cases the orifices can be removed and reversed to convert from lp to natural gas. Sometimes you will need a conversion kit and you will need to look this up by model number. 465 is the oven capacity not the model number. You can locate the model number by pulling the drawer out and looking behind it. Please let me know the model and I can let you know what kit you need. Also I should let you know that your gas company is the most qualified to convert your range, and this conversion should not be attempted by anyone who is not qualified. If this conversion is not completed properly you could be risking your life and the lives of everyone in your home, so make sure you know what you are doing!! Or get a qualified person. Good luck and please be careful making any changes to your gas appliances. Please dont forget to rate me also.
This is the solution to convert from LP back to natural gas that I posted as a comment on this thread: After much work and little help from Jenn-Air or Whirlpool, I found a satisfactory solution. As many of you may have found out, Whirlpool does not sell the natural gas orifices to the JDR8895AAS separately as they do the LP conversion orifices. Instead, they recommend that you buy all 5 orifice holders that include the individual orifices. This would run about $120-150 depending on where you shop. If you want to take this route, the Whirlpool parts you need are: 1x740079621x740078132x740079611x74007816 Fortunately, because natural gas is denser than LP, the LP orifices can be bored out for a conversion back to natural gas. After a lot of homework I was able to find someone with the natural gas orifices for this stove that let me take them out to measure them. For some crazy reason, Whirlpool does not have this information: Find a machine shop or a good appliance repair shop that has a wire gauging bit set. The natural gas orifice hole sizes are as follows: Left front burner (16K BTU): 48Left rear burner (9.2K BTU): 54Center burner (5K BTU): 58Right front burner (12.5K BTU): 52Right rear burnger (5K BTU): 58 It cost me $25 to have these resized after I found the correct hole size. Finally, to complete the conversion back to natural gas, you must flip the plastic screw-shaped piece by unscrewing the hex nut on the regulator at the back of the stove. Hope this helps, because it took me a while to figure it out.
on the regulator there is a 1/2" nut, made of aluminum. loosen the nut, thur it around and screw it back in, there is a "NAT" on one side, and a "LP" on the other side, make sure the "LP" is facing out if you are using propane, and "NAT", if you are using Natural Gas. Very simple, all you need is a 1/2" wrench, or a small adjustable wrench,