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Westinghouse SB907 Top Draw Clips Replacement

Hi, I own a Westinghouse SB907 - believe the model is no longer made.
I have broken the plastic clips that attach the top drawer to the runners. I am wondering if i can find the clips anywhere or if i need to order an entire top draw??

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Probably too late for you now :( I found this site.
If you happen to have yours fixed, I would love instructions on how to reattach my top drawer to the clips! Can't find an image anywhere and just can't figure it out. sigh.

Posted on Jun 13, 2010


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Something has slipped behind the bottom drawer, a flimsy cutting board. Can the drawer be removed and how?

The drawer is easily removed. Make sure you switch off the power first and I always unplug just to be sure.
9.1 Drawer Front Removal
9.1.1 Slide open drawer.
9.1.2 Locate draw pin on either side of the tub. (These are white plastic pins, about 1.5cm diameter. You can't miss them.)
9.1.3 Using a sharp pair of long nose pliers or slip jaw pliers grasp the center dividing web of the pin and pull away from the tub to remove the pin. Support the drawer front with your hand while doing this.
Note: The pin web is vertical.
9.1.4 With both pins removed the bottom of the drawer front can now be eased out slightly.
9.1.5 Now carefully pull the drawer front down to allow it to come free from the handle and top locating slots.
9.1.6 Carefully remove the earth wire from the tab on the drawer front. (if it is an integrated model you will also need to unplug the integrated badge from the isolating module)
9.1.7 Refit in reverse manner ensuring the drawer slides are right forward and the pin secures through the hook on the front end of the slide.
Note: When reinserting the pins make sure the dividing web is

9.2 Tub Removal
9.2.1 Open the drawer fully.
9.2.2 Depress the right-hand tub clip and push it back about 30mm (1 inch). Repeat for the left-hand side. These clips are on the runners and are usually white plastic.
9.2.3 The tub may now be lifted up off the drawer runners. It's amazing but the drawer simply lifts out.
9.2.4 Slide both runners back into the product.
9.2.5 Refit in reverse manner.

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1 Answer

Burned out light in refrigerator

Can be behind a plastic cover held in place by philips head screw or screws. The plastic cover can have side clips that need to be squeezed in gently to allow them to release from a slot in the ridge. Once the cover is removed, the bulb should be a screw type. Remove and then buy a replacement - the edison screw size and wattage are the most important thing to fit. Bulb shape to suit size behind the cover. Buy at WW or Coles otherwise spare parts on possibly ebay if you can be precise on model etc.

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The ice maker is easy to remove once you get the drawer off the slides. There are two plastic clips located near the back of the drawer that attach it to the slides. Pop those out and lift the drawer out. Pull off the plastic ice maker cover to expose the mounting screws. Remove the two screws holding the assembly to the top of the freezer, then slide the ice maker forward about 1/2 inch. It will drop down a few inches, allowing you to unplug the wiring connector and remove it as a unit. The ice full guide is then easily removed.


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Here is a replacement mount.

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Check engine light came on. I pulled code P2004 which comes up as the intake manifold runner being stuck open. Just before the check engine light came on, I noticed that when I start the car, the initial...

Hello, The fast idle on Startup is a normal setting for your motor. This is called the "cold start routine" and it is suppose to help create draft in the induction system and warm other components.

The problem with the runner can be from several things. There are Electric solenoids on some of the motors which may be seen as 2 pods on the Intake manifold. The Solenoids are used to either send Vacuum to the runner mechanism or to move metal rods attached to the "runners".

Sometimes the runners with Vacuum solenoids get stuck in one position. You need to check for Vacuum running through the Solenoid. For the type with metal rods that move, Ford used plastic clips to hold the rod shaft to the runner just beneath the place where the Solenoid mounts. The broken plastic clip can be replaced with a paper clip that you need to shape to fit. Or you can buy a Ford part made of plastic which will fail again.

The runner flaps themselves can be gummed up so bad that the Solenoids described earlier just can not move them. This style would need to have the Intake Manifold removed in order for you to lift out the runner plates and clean them.

I am going to explain what a "Runner" is and this should explain why there are several systems put in Ford vehicles. On some Ford engines, the breathing of the engine requires that the Intake manifold has 2 sets of intake passages. A single Intake design could not give both low-end and top-end Performance. The runner moves from one port to another and this is like having 2 Intake manifolds bolted on top of 1 engine.

When the runners can not move because of a malfuction, thats when you get Error Warnings and poor performance.

You need to identify the engine used in your ZX3 if there were optional engines. I wanted to give you a start on your repair with my Solution. You should be able to look at your motor and see which system you have and now know that a Rod-operated sytem can have broken clips, a Vacuum system can have bad Solenoids and so on. I hope this is very useful to you.

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