Question about Crate FlexWave FW15 Guitar Amp Combo, 15 Watt Single 8 Speaker

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I have a crate mx15r amp and the component on the pc board labled ic#3, its the one thats mounted to the heat sink blew out. problem is its burned up so bad that i cant read the i.d. numbers on it to replace it. there are 5 pins on it and all are soldered to the board. any help would be oh so sweet.

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  • bwcreighton Jul 13, 2009

    thanks paul could you also tell me the name of the component? whats it called?

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Hi there. This should work but check it out: pin assignment. It's a 32 watt so won't blow again. http://www.mouser.com/Search/Refine.aspx?Keyword=tda2050
Thanks
Paul

Posted on Jul 12, 2009

  • Paul McNaul
    Paul McNaul Jul 16, 2009

    Hi again.
    TDA2050 by STMicro
    32W Hi-Fi AUDIO POWER AMPLIFIER
    Thanks
    Paul


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Probably smoked the output IC(it is the chip mounted to the heat sink attached to the fan) which can be purchased from marshall directly or from one of their service centers. Also P-H216 sold at tubesandmore.com should work. No soldering required. Look at that IC(chip) to see if it looks burnt or has a crater on it which would indicate that that is indeed you bad component.

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If the IC is MC1436, Pin one is not connected.Pins 2, 3 and 6 are the signal carriers, 6 is out 2 and 3 are inverting and non inverting inputs. CR13 and CR 14 would be simply something on the order of a 1N60 or a !N914 depending on body size,

If it works fine with heat snk screws removed, check to see if they short something out. Also look for small cracks in the board with the screws in place and snug. It also would not hurt to reflow the solder on all component leads and headers that are in the vicinity of the heat sink. Just because they "look" okay, does not mean they may not be faulty. Reflowing eliminates a cold solder joint as a possibility- which by your description is actually the most probable issue. Followed by cracked board and inadvertant short. Esepcially if the heat sink is supposed to be electrically isolated. If it continues, try using nylon mounting hardware for the heat sink, Also when powered up tap each IC, electrolytic capacitor and transistor with a pencil eraser- those that make noise may be the source of the problem. The applied stresses of the screws might deflect the transistor just enough to make a contact intermittent internally in the device..

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1 Answer

I have a crate GFX 50 and the effects come in only after about 15 minutes of play.


This is a warm up issue and can probably best be found by using circuit cooler on suspected components.

Other possible problems may be a bad solder joint or cracked circuit board.

Candle the board with a bright light to look for cracks.

Bad solder joints take experience to spot, but pay particular attention where panel mounted volume controls solder to the circuit board. Looking for the little ring around the solder menicus takes a sharp eye and good lighting. Resolder any suspected bad joints.

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Hi. use this link to check for the schematics.


crateamps.com/support/discontinued.php

or

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1 Answer

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DO NOT REPLACE THE FUSE !!! You will do more damage.

I just repaired one of these. A small ceramic surface mounted cap very near where the +/- 85 volt connectors plug onto the board blew up.

This left a sputtered mess on the insulating material at the right rear corner of the power supply.

The net parts list of parts I had to replace:

1. Main IGBT transistors on heat sinks. You have to remove the heat sinks to get at the mounting screws. 1MBK50D or equivalent. I used DigKey part APT28GA60BD15

2. One 1N4148 surface mount diode that is for gate drive speedup. D24 and D25. (don't remember which one was shorted)

3. All four driver transistors for the gate of the IGBT's. @ each 2SA1020 (PNP) and 2SC2655 (NPN). These are tall TO92-like transistors and I believe that at least one of these I had to get from Mouser.

4. Transistor T9, suface mount BC856B (PNP)

5. Replaced all four surface mount caps, one had exploded.
C50, C51,C54,C56. Replace with 0.01mfd/200 Volt 1206 style surface mount caps Digikey 478-1511-6

6.Replaced ceramic wire wound 10 Watt stand up resistors that were blown open. Replaced with 20 ohm design change. These slowly charge the main input filter caps and when supply is stable, a relay shorts them out. If you have replaced the fuse, you LIKELY blew them out. Original value was 10 ohms on some units. This was a Mouser part. 280-PRM10-20-RC

7. The 2153 switching reg chip IC1. This chip shorts. It is made by International Rectifier and I believe the full number is something like IRF2153. I had these in stock and not sure of which source I had procured them from... It was from one or the other.

Lots of destruction and one really needs a desoldering station to work this. Removal of the blown IGBT's is especially tough. All solder must be removed from the transistor leads AND the thermistor on one of the heat sinks. Once you have verified the leads are loose, one has to rock the heat sinks to get the tabs free. The tabs are NOT soldered! Be careful when restoring to get the thermistor leads started in their holes.

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1 Answer

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