95 LeSabre 3.8 serpentine belt removed you can turn crankshaft pulley forward and back about an inch and a half makes loud noise at times car still runs and drives possible broken crankshaft?

Turn all the pulleys by hand. Chances are you will be able to tell if there are bad bearings in cone of the following: Power steering pump, alternator, idler pulley, A/C compressor. The one that is failing will probably feel rough when you turn it or have a lot of play in it.

Hello: Remove the serpentine belt, see if the waterpump pulley wobbles/makes noise when you spin it. If thats not it then start the engine, belt still off see if noise is there also while engine is running see if vthe crankshaft pulley wobbles. Also check the A/C compressor pulley (engine off, belt off) spin it by hand and check for noise and wobble. If all the previous is ok then it could be the balance shaft front bearing and or the timing chain.

You might just need a fan bellt or serpentine belt, get an empty spray bottle mix a small amount of
dish soap and water, spray on belt, then start your engine if the noise stops just replace your belt.,
if it does'nt it could be another pulley or the tensioner pulley, then i would suggest removing the belt
and spin each pulley to determine which one is making the noise. if it turns out to be the alternator, you
will have to replace the whole thing. they don't normally sell just the pulley, and even if you can get one
requires special equipment to pull it off, if needed just replace it and save yourself time and trouble.
plus parts normally come with some kind of warranty. good luck!

remove the belt and check all the pulleys that the belt drives. sound as if one of the bearings in the pulley is seized making the belt squeal and smoke.

The timing belt diagrams are listed in detail with figures and procedure to remove them.

REPLACING TIMING BELT ON A 2003 HYUNDAI TIBURON 2.7L V6

1. Remove passenger side headlight via the 3 10mm screws holding it in place and disconnect the turn signal and main harness

2. Remove passenger side tire

3. Remove the splash guard via 2 10mm screws at the top of the guard

4. Remove the 2 17mm bolts and 2 17mm nuts from motor mount bar

5. You may have to separate the mount bar from the motor via either a chisel or flathead screwdriver and a hammer ( support engine via a jack and a piece of plywood under oil pan )

6. Use a 3/8 ratchet ( or a long breaker bar would work better ) to remove the serpentine belt ( remember the route ). Disconnect the power steering hose from the pump and secure back with a zip tie. Remove the power steering pulley with a pry bar and 19mm socket.


7. Hand turn the crankshaft via a 22mm socket to TDC ( top dead center, marked on lower timing belt cover )

8. Remove the serpentine belt tensioner via 2 12mm bolts on each side

9. Remove the upper timing belt cover via 7 10mm screws

10. Remove crankshaft pulley ( 22mm ) with an air impact gun ( an electric one will work too )

11. Remove lower timing belt cover via 4 more 10mm screws





12. Remove the motor mount from the block via 3 14mm bolts and 2 12mm bolts ( there is a 12mm holding the oil dipstick bracket towards the front of the car )

13. Remove the auto tensioner via 2 12mm bolts



14. Remove the timing belt


15. Make sure your timing markings are correct...

There is one marking on each cam gear and on the heads ( head markings are small, look closely...try wiping the edge of the head down with a rag and some brake cleaner to bring it out more ) They are also pictured in last pic.

When the crankshaft is in the TDC position, the cam gear markings should both line up at the same time with the head markings

Adjust if necessary, use a 17mm socket to turn cam gears to correct position

16. Install new timing belt ( as you install it, make sure to keep a little tension on the belt as you route it )

17. Install new auto tensioner and pull pin

18. Install just the lower timing belt cover

19. Install the crankshaft pulley

20. Hand turn the crankshaft atleast 5 times to verify the timing markings are lining up properly ( all should line up at the same time when the crankshaft pulley mark is in the TDC position )

21. Remove crankshaft pulley

22. Remove lower timing belt cover

23. Reverse steps 12 - 1

You can refer the videos below for further assistance.Your valuable feedback would be appreciated.Thanks for choosing Fixya.

Things You'll Need:

• 2 camshaft timing clamps (#J38613-A)
• Set of metric ½-inch drive sockets
• Set of metric 3/8-inch drive sockets
• Set of metric ¼-inch drive sockets
• ½-inch drive ratchet
• ½-inch drive air gun
• ½-inch extensions (4 to 8 inches long)
• 3/8-inch drive ratchet
• 3/8-inch drive air gun
• 3/8-inch extensions (4 to 8 inches long)
• ¼-inch drive ratchet
• ¼-inch drive air gun
• ¼-inch extensions (4 to 8 inches long)
• Pry bar
• Common screwdriver
• Small common screwdriver
• Small piece of wire at least 1.85 inches long
• Phillips screwdriver
• Pliers
• Adjustable wrench
• Torque wrench

Removing the Timing Belt
1. Remove the air cleaner, air duct and the coolant reservoir. The coolant reservoir can remain attached to the hoses---just unbolt it and move it to the side out of your way. Remove the serpentine belt. Before removing the serpentine belt, make sure there is a diagram on the hood or radiator support to show you the belt routing. If the belt routing sticker is missing, sketch out a picture of the belt routing.
   
2. Siphon the fluid out of the reservoir of the power steering pump, or be prepared to cap the line ports off. You can cap the line ports off with a piece of rubber hose. Close the open end of the hose with a large bolt. Unbolt the power steering pump from its bracket and set it aside. Cap any open hose ends or pipe fittings. This will prevent additional fluid loss.
   
3. Remove the right timing belt cover, spark plug wire cover, left timing belt cover and the ECM harness cover using the ¼-inch tools. Remove the serpentine belt tensioner with the 3/8-inch tools. Unclip the power steering hose from the alternator. Using the ¼-inch tools or the 3/8-inch tools, remove the center timing belt cover and the right and left camshaft covers.
   
4. Remove the tensioner side plate. The side plate is located just under the left cams and has three bolts holding it on. The tensioner is hydraulic and includes a plunger unit. Turn the plunger unit to remove it from the pulley arm and socket. Make sure you do not lose the tapered brush that sits between the plunger and the mount. Loosen and remove the tensioner pulley bolt (located at about 10 o'clock on the tensioner pulley). Tape the pulley pivot bushing to the pulley so it doesn't fall out. Remove the pulley and the arm. Remove the timing belt.
Installing the Timing Belt
5. Bend a thick paper clip so you have a straight piece of wire at least 1.85 inches long. Clamp the tensioner plunger at its center in a vise, with the plunger pointing toward the ground. Allow it to sit for 5 minutes to get the oil into the rubber boot. Remove the plug from the flat base of the plunger and insert a small screwdriver into the vent hole. Turn the screwdriver counterclockwise until the pushrod is retracted. Make sure the pushrod is fully retracted before moving on to the next step.
   
6. Push the wire peg you created in Step 1 into the vent hole and turn the screwdriver counterclockwise until you feel the wire peg lock into the pushrod. Fill the plunger with 5W-30 synthetic engine oil to the bottom of the hole. Do not overfill the plunger. Put the plug back on the plunger. Make sure the plug is in securely and the plunger is completely sealed. Wipe the plunger clean of spilled oil.
   
7. Clean the tensioner pulley, but do not lubricate it. Turn the crankshaft clockwise until the number 1 cylinder (front cylinder on the driver's side) is at top dead center and the timing marks on the crank pulley and the block are lined up. Top dead center is achieved when the piston in the number 1 hole reaches its complete height in the rotation. You can feel for this by sticking a screwdriver in number 1 spark plug hole while turning the crank pulley.
   
8. Turn all four of the camshaft pulleys so that the machined flats are facing up. Install the timing clamps on each camshaft carrier. Torque the bolt on the timing clamp to 22 foot pounds of torque. If there are any timing marks drawn on the camshaft pulleys, erase them.
   
   
9. Loosen the camshaft sprocket bolts. Using a rubber hammer, tap each camshaft sprocket to remove any taper. Tighten the sprocket bolts finger-tight. Spin each sprocket to be sure the sprocket turns freely. Make sure there is no back and forth freeplay when the sprockets are being turned.
   
10. Install the timing belt starting with the crankshaft pulley. Route the belt to the right guide pulley (as you are facing the engine), then the right exhaust camshaft sprocket, over the top of the right intake camshaft sprocket, then under the center guide pulley, over the left intake camshaft sprocket and over the left exhaust camshaft sprocket. Make sure the timing belt is tight on the right side and loose on the left side (again, as you are facing the engine).
    
11. Install the tensioner pulley, making sure the pivot brush does not fall out. Leave it taped or use a magnet to hold it in. Torque the tensioner pulley bolt to 37 foot pounds of torque. Install the tensioner and the side plate. Be sure the pushrod end is seated properly against the tensioner pulley. Torque the side plate retaining bolts to 18 foot pounds of torque. Remove the locking pin and let the plunger extend to its normal position.
    
12. Set the torque wrench to 89 foot pounds of torque, then put the torque wrench on the square lug of the tensioner and torque it. This applies initial tension to the timing belt. Turn the crankshaft sprocket three times by hand. This ensures seating of the timing belt and makes sure the engine turns freely without the valves hitting the pistons. Check to be sure the crankshaft pulley timing marks are still lined up.
    
13. Torque the bolts on the left camshaft exhaust and intake pulleys to 96 foot pounds of torque. You will need to hold the sprockets to keep them from turning while torquing the bolts. Remove the timing clamp from the left side camshaft carrier. The cams should not move when removing the timing clamp. Turn the crankshaft one complete clockwise rotation and align the crankshaft pulley marks.
    
14. Repeat Step 9 for the right camshaft exhaust and intake pulleys, expect when turning the engine, turn it two complete clockwise rotations and align the crankshaft pulley marks. The flat, machined surfaces on the camshafts will be facing up on one side and facing down on the other side.
    
15. Mark the left camshaft exhaust pulley at 2 o'clock and the left camshaft intake pulley at 8 o'clock (the marks should be in line with each other) with fingernail polish or heat paint. Mark the right camshaft exhaust pulley at 10 o'clock and the right camshaft intake pulley at 4 o'clock, lining up the marks. Install all components in the reverse order of removal.

it could be the tensioner, water pump, alternator, A/C compressor, power steering, or even a really bad serpentine belt. The only way to be sure is to remove the s-belt and spin-check the pulleys and listen for squeaks or grinding bearings.

1. 1 Check to ensure the Sienna's engine is cold, then make sure the Sienna is in park, the ignition is in the off position and the key is removed from the ignition to prevent any possibility of the engine engaging during the serpentine belt replacement.
   
2. 2 Open the hood and locate the serpentine belt routing diagram sticker on the side of the engine casing. Study it for a moment before removing the existing belt. It is essential the new belt be installed exactly as the diagram indicates.
   
3. 3 Find the tensioner pulley, the main pulley that controls the serpentine belt, and fit a 1/2-inch socket wrench over the self-tensioner on the outside of the pulley.
   
4. 4 Pull the wrench to the left to move the pulley forward, which loosens the belt, then remove the belt.
   
5. 5 Compare the old serpentine belt with the new, replacement belt for length, width and number of grooves on the belt's underside. Be certain the replacement belt is the right part.
   
6. 6 Fit the new belt on to each pulley according to the serpentine belt routing diagram on the manufacturer's sticker, or according to the drawing made prior to removing the old belt. Fit the new belt on to the tensioner pulley last, again applying pressure on the pulley's self-tensioner with the half-inch socket wrench to loosen the pulley.
   
7. 7 Release the pressure on the self tensioner and allow the tensioner pulley to ease back into place, thereby tightening the new serpentine belt with the appropriate tension.
   
8. 8 Remove the wrench and close the hood.
   

Thank you and good luck,
Lee

Instructions
Things You'll Need: · Set of quarter-inch drive sockets Quarter-inch drive ratchet Set of half-inch drive sockets Half-inch drive air gun Set of metric wrenches Special tools for holding camshaft timing #2065-A and injection pump #2064

Step 1

Remove the accessory drive belts and the accessory drive belt tensioner. Remove the upper timing belt cover and the valve cover. Turn the crankshaft clockwise until the No.1 cylinder is atop, dead center, with the flywheel timing marks aligned.

Step 2

Install the special tool setting bar (#2065-A) on the rear of the camshaft. If it does not fit, turn the crankshaft once more and line up the timing marks again in the hole of the transmission housing.

Step 3

Insert locking pin #2064 into the injection pump to hold it in position. Remove the crankshaft pulley bolts, the crankshaft pulley and the lower timing belt cover. Loosen the tensioner pulley nut and allow the tensioner to move away from the belt. Loosely tighten the nut to hold the tensioner out of the way. Remove the top guide pulley and the timing belt.

Step 4

Make sure that the timing mark on the flywheel is lined up and that the camshaft setting bar and injection locking pin are in place. Loosen the camshaft bolt a half turn and tap the sprocket with a soft mallet to loosen it off its taper. The sprocket should move freely. Install the top guide pulley and torque to 18 foot pounds of torque.

Step 5

Install the new timing belt, starting on the right side and working counterclockwise. Keep the tension on the right nontensioned side. Loosen the tensioner pulley nut. Using the two-pin wrench, turn the tensioner pulley clockwise until the notch and raised mark are aligned. Torque the tensioner pulley nut to 15 foot pounds of torque. Make sure the flywheel timing mark is still aligned.

Step 6

Torque the camshaft bolt to 33 foot pounds of torque. Remove the locking pin from the injection pump and remove the camshaft setting bar. Turn the crankshaft two turns and check the alignment on the flywheel. Make sure that the setting bar can be inserted easily and that the injection pump locking pin can be inserted. Install all components in reverse order of removal and torque the crankshaft bolt to 18 foot pounds of torque.

My Recommendation - Pay an authorized VW mechanic $500 to replace the timing belt water pump an tensioner, and sleep better knowing that the job was done right. Just too many places for a novice car mechanic to screw up. jQuery('.article ol .image').each(function(i,e){ var $this = jQuery(this); $this.find('img').error(function(){ jQuery(this).remove(); $this.remove(); }); });

the pulley is also a dampener often times they seperate from each other. replace pulley/dampener.