I removed the emergency drain hose to unblock it and cannot stop it leaking now.

4.2L Engine

1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions Section.
   WARNING
   During engine repair procedures, cleanliness is extremely important. Any foreign material, including any material created while cleaning gasket surfaces, that enters the oil passages, coolant passages or the oil pan can cause engine failure.
2. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
3. Remove the starter.
4. Drain the engine oil. Install the drain plug when finished.
5. Remove the 4 bolts and the crossmember.
6. Remove the 3 oil pan-to-transmission bolts.
7. Remove the 17 bolts and the oil pan.
8. Remove and discard the oil pan rear seal.

To install:

WARNING
Do not use metal scrapers, wire brushes, power abrasive discs or other abrasive means to clean the sealing surfaces. These tools cause scratches and gouges which make leak paths. Use silicone gasket remover and a plastic scraping tool to remove all traces of old sealant. Follow the directions on the packaging.

1. Clean the gasket mating surfaces using silicone gasket remover, a plastic scraping tool and metal surface prep. Follow the directions on the packaging.
   NOTE
   If the oil pan is not secured within 4 minutes, the sealant must be removed and the sealing areas cleaned. To clean the sealing area, use silicone gasket remover and metal surface prep. Follow the directions on the packaging. Failure to follow this procedure can cause future oil leakage.
2. Apply silicone gasket and sealant to the oil pan sealing areas shown and install the oil pan rear seal.
3. Apply silicone gasket and sealant to the rear main bearing cap.
4. Install the oil pan rear seal.
5. Apply a bead of silicone gasket and sealant to the oil pan mating surface.
6. Position the oil pan and install the bolts. Tighten the bolts in the sequence shown. Tighten to 10 Nm (89 inch lbs.).
7. Install the 3 oil pan-to-transmission bolts. Tighten to 34 Nm (25 ft. lbs).
8. Install the starter.
9. Position the crossmember and install the 4 bolts. Tighten to 90 Nm (66 ft. lbs.).

4.2L Engine

1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions Section.
   WARNING
   During engine repair procedures, cleanliness is extremely important. Any foreign material, including any material created while cleaning gasket surfaces, that enters the oil passages, coolant passages or the oil pan can cause engine failure.
2. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
3. Remove the starter.
4. Drain the engine oil. Install the drain plug when finished.
5. Remove the 4 bolts and the crossmember.
6. Remove the 3 oil pan-to-transmission bolts.
7. Remove the 17 bolts and the oil pan.
8. Remove and discard the oil pan rear seal.

To install:

WARNING
Do not use metal scrapers, wire brushes, power abrasive discs or other abrasive means to clean the sealing surfaces. These tools cause scratches and gouges which make leak paths. Use silicone gasket remover and a plastic scraping tool to remove all traces of old sealant. Follow the directions on the packaging.

1. Clean the gasket mating surfaces using silicone gasket remover, a plastic scraping tool and metal surface prep. Follow the directions on the packaging.
   NOTE
   If the oil pan is not secured within 4 minutes, the sealant must be removed and the sealing areas cleaned. To clean the sealing area, use silicone gasket remover and metal surface prep. Follow the directions on the packaging. Failure to follow this procedure can cause future oil leakage.
2. Apply silicone gasket and sealant to the oil pan sealing areas shown and install the oil pan rear seal.
3. Apply silicone gasket and sealant to the rear main bearing cap.
4. Install the oil pan rear seal.
5. Apply a bead of silicone gasket and sealant to the oil pan mating surface.
6. Position the oil pan and install the bolts. Tighten the bolts in the sequence shown. Tighten to 10 Nm (89 inch lbs.).
7. Install the 3 oil pan-to-transmission bolts. Tighten to 34 Nm (25 ft. lbs).
8. Install the starter.
9. Position the crossmember and install the 4 bolts. Tighten to 90 Nm (66 ft. lbs.).

-Drain the engine oil through the drain bolt located under the oil pan (sump).
-Preserve the used oil in a sealed canister to be disposed off later.
-Remove the oil pan bolts from all around and keep them in a tray.
-Oil pan is attached with a silicone sealant so it need a little practice to be separated from the cylinder block assembly. To remove it, tap it with a rubber, wooden or plastic hammer. If it is too hard to remove insert a thin wide chisel slowly from different places turn by turn but not damaging any of the surfaces.
-Finally insert a slightly thicker and strong wide chisel from the front side and force it slowly downward.
- Take out the oil pan carefully.
- Clean and wash it thoroughly with detergent and let it dry.
- Clean the lower surface of the cylinder block.
- Apply 3 to 4 mm thick layer of silicone sealant RTV-Grey to the oil pan mating surface.
- Hold the oil pan near the cylinder face not touching the cylinder face and center the pan by just tightening a few turns of oil pan bolt. Put another bolt on the opposite side. Screw in another bolt to the side of the pan and one more bolt to opposite the third bolt. Then screw in all the remaining bolts slightly.
- Seat in all the bolts and tight the bolts in many attempts.
- Make sure the silicone sealant flows out equally from all around the all pan.
- Wait about 1 hour to let the sealant dry.
- Install new oil filter.
- Pour new recommended engine oil and bring it to the upper level.
- Start the engine for ten seconds, switch it off and check the oil level again.
- The job is complete now.

DIffy gasket or pinion seal will fix it. Atp -205

May just need a good lube with silicone paste oring lubricant (sold at lowes in the plumbing department, used to lube faucet orings). Remove the head and check the cylinder seal for loose fit or cracks and the head for fine scratches where orings make contact (remove scratches with fine sandpaper). If the cylinder seal can spin on the cylinder but the seal looks good then remove the seal and apply RTV sealant to clean surfaces and reinstall waiting for 24 hrs before retest (lube all orings). If the air was leaking from the bottom of the gun, pull out the cylinder and cylinder spacer and clean and lube (remove scratches where orings make contact). Good luck

(Remove nails) With short piece of hose used as listening device, check for air leaking out of nose and or trigger area as well (I use a 3 foot piece of fuel line hose to listen for air leaks). Air leaking from various places indicates that there are fine scratches on metal surfaces where orings make contact. Pull out the cylinder and cylinder ring. Look for fine scratches there and in the head where headvalve orings contact metal. Remove scratches with 400 grit sandpaper. Lube all orings and surfaces with silicone paste lube (sold at Lowes in the plumbing department and in swimming pool supply dept.). Check that the cylinder seal sitting on top of cylinder fits snugly on cylinder and is smooth on top. If it spins easily on the cylinder, pull off and apply rtv sealant and reinstall (wait for sealant to mature before use). Make sure that the head gasket seals correctly around small hole leaking to headvalve. Good luck

Remove the serpentine belt from the water pump pulley. Remove the lower radiators hose's upper clamp at the overflow tank. Drain as much of the coolant as you can. Saving the liquid in a drain pan can be a good idea. Use a ratchet with a 10mm socket to remove the heater line off the top of the water pump. Remove the bolts holding the water pump body. Remove the old pump and clean surfaces completely. Install new pump with new gasket and silicon sealant. Reverse procedure to complete, Refill radiator via fill tank, check for leaks. Continue checking overfill tank for a few days.

I think you should be looking for the water leak first ! The trunk rubber seals and the tail lamps are high on the suspected list. The drain hose you are looking at could be the fuel tank filler vent hose , necessary to stop vapor lock in the fuel system . Remove the trunk liner and replace with newspaper and check daily for water tracking daily . good luck

passenger side (rt) of engine, middle. Be ery careful tightening the bolts so you don't break the pipe. Locate thermostat with jiggle valve facing up.

It is very hard to bleed air from system when refilling. see files if you don't have heat when done.

go here too

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/villagerquest/

Housing Removal

1. Drain the cooling system; refer to Cooling System Draining, Filling And Bleeding .

1. Remove the upper radiator hose.
   1. Remove the hose clamp bolt.
   1. Remove the hose clamps.
   1. Remove the upper radiator hose.

1. Remove the water bypass hose.
   1. Remove the clamps.
   1. Remove the bypass hose.

1. Remove the thermostat housing.
   1. Remove the bolts.
   1. Remove the thermostat housing.

Installation

1. CAUTION: Do not reuse hose clamps. Make sure new hose clamps are seated correctly.
   NOTE: Make sure the thermostat housing and mating surface are clean of dirt and old silicone.
   NOTE: Apply a 2.0-3.0 mm (0.079-0.118 inch) bead of Silicone Gasket and Sealant F7AZ-19554-EA or equivalent meeting Ford specification WSK-M2G343-A4 to the mounting surface of the water pump.
   

Remove the hair strainer or pop up drain assembly if so equiped and using a basin wrench or two crossed screwdrivers unscrew the drain basket and remove from the tub. Clean the tub and the back side of the basket and apply a generous bead of plumbers putty to the backside of the basket and reinstall. Tighten it down squeezing out excess putty, wipe off excess putty and you are done.

Some people use silicone sealer in lieu of plumbers putty and it will work fine but is messier in my opinion and makes dis-assembly harder.