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24 VAC HUM The yellow wire connected to the I.D. Blower pressure switch is powered anytime the pressure switch is closed and provides 24 VAC humidifier control. Remove the yellow wire and connect the supplied brown jumper wire to the pressure switch terminal. Reconnect the yellow wire to the "piggyback" terminal on the brown jumper and then connect the 24 VAC line of the humidifier to the stripped end of the brown wire. Using a wire nut or a field-supplied quick connect terminal can make this connection. The wiring must conform to all local and national codes. Connect the COM side of the humidifier to the B/C terminal on the furnace control board (or to the COM side of the 24 VAC transformer). DO NOT CONNECT 115V HUMIDIFIER TO THESE TERMINALS.
I believe that Carrier has a 24 volt setup for humidifier but am not sure. On the circuit board I think there is a terminal (HUM). If there is this terminal connect 1 wire to this and 1 wire to C terminal.
If not,pretty sure there is a 120 volt EAC terminal. This would only kick on when blower is on. If you have to use this you would have to install transformer to the EAC connections
Coming off the humidifier you wil find 2-red and 2-yellow (through a plug).
The red supplies 24 volts and is wired to the "hot" and "common" terrminals of an electronic humidstat. (They are NOT used if using a mechanical humidstat.)
The 2-yellow are wired to the "HUM" terminals of the humidstat (either mechanical or electronic).
If you are using a sail switch or current sensing relay, it cuts into one of the yellow wires. (Yellow from humidifier to to humidstat. Then from other terminal of humidistat yellow runs to to relay (or sail switch). Then from other terminal of relay (or sail switch) yellow back to humidifier.
If you don't have a volt meter, purchase one. I've seen them as low as $20.00 at Sears and even lower at Home Depot and other discount stores. The HUM terminals are most likely low voltage (24v). The "N" is the neutral. Assuming you have confirmed this is low voltage (24v, you will use HUM and "N" terminals. This control sequence is typically to allow for operation of your humidifier only when there is a call for your fan to run. The brown wires coming from your Humidifier are your low voltage circuit. One should be directly wired to "N". The other should be ran to your humidistat. The other side of the switch of your humidistat should be wired to the HUM terminal.
I hope you will find this helpful. Good Luck!!!!
That will work, The HUM feeds power to the humidifier when the fan is operating even in cooling on most models, However the humidistat must also be calling for humidity and probally won't call during the cooling months
the red light is lit because either you didnt install the manual mode resistor or your not using a out door thermostat but you have to hook somthing to the two terminals just to the right of the HH terminals
Sounds like you may have put 120v through a 24v solenoid and humidistat.
Is the HUM terminal on the furnace 120v or 24v?
If it is a 120v terminal you will need a 120x24v transformer and a new solenoid and maybe a new humidistat.
Honeywell has had lots of problems with this humidifier. They are coming out with a completely redesigned steam humidifier that will be available in a month or two. If you know who installed it (through equipment stickers and such) you can probably get them to swap your old trouble prone unit for the new design for just the labor. If they won't, then push them to talk with their Honeywell distributor about it.
The problem is most likely a stuck float in the humidifier. There are two floats that run up and down. One that tells it when to add water, and one that is a safety. They both tend to get stuck with mineral deposits.
You can fix it by unplugging the humidifier, turning off the water, draining the pan (unscrew the drain on the bottom a few turns), disconnecting the water lines and wires (2 molded plugs and 2 screw terminals-don't worry about if they get swapped). There should be a couple of screws that lock it into the ductwork such that when you remove the screws you can pull the whole unit out to see inside the water tank. Then just clean everything out well and put it back together in the same order.
You really do want Honeywell to get you a new humidifier though.