This happens to me about once every six months. The first two times I had a service guy out, he swapped the heating element and the defrost control board. The third time I bought the parts on-line and did it my self. By then I had the nagging feeling that swapping the parts was having no effect. The next two times I just did a manual defrost with a hair dryer. That gave the same result: about six months til the next problem. My guess: the defrost just gets "behind" or something and can't catch up. I dunno, seems like a design flaw. But, it sure is cheaper to do a manual defrost twice a year. not the end of the world.
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Replace the thermostat. A very inexpensive thermocouple that is not sensing the heat anymore and caused the element to overheat. In the UK the part will cost less than five pounds!
If the element had touched the ground, your safety earth leakage breaker in the fuse box would have tripped.
I believe your problem is the defroster circuit . There are only three components on most refrigerators unless you have something real special . Kidding . They are as follows : defrost timer , heating element , and defrost cut out switch . The defrost timer cycles the refrigerator out of normal operation and into defrost mode once every six to eight hours depending on the unit . When in this mode everything shuts off , compressor , circulation fan , and condenser fan is so equipped . To eliminate the circulation fan , you'll have to keep an eye on your refrigerator checking in every half hour or so for six hours to eight hours and see if it stops working . If it does , then we know the timer is working correctly and the problem will be the heating element or cutout switch . The heating element is checked with an ohm meter. Usually they burn out when they go bad and you will read infinite resistance. The defrost cutout switch should read 0-1 ohms when the freezer temperature is 40° F or lower. If the heating element checks good , in other words it shows to have resistance usually between 30 and 100 ohms, replace the cutout switch . If the circulation fan never shuts off and the unit continues to run without shutting down after a six or eight hour Time cycle , replace the defrost timer . Good luck
. If the freezer is always icing up , you probably have the problem in your defroster circuit . The refrigerator cycles once every six to eight hours into the defrost mode . This is controlled by the defrost timer. when in this mode , a heating element located close to the evaporator heats up and melts the ice. This heating element will heat up any ice enough to melt It and drain out of the unit. I would check this first .
it can be,but before you replace that $100.00+ board,check the defrost heating element for continuity and also the defrost thermostat(both on the evaporator coil) as these go bad too and are much cheaper than the board
There is a eight hout defrost timer, bimetal thermostat, and defrost heating element in the defrost circuit. Three parts and the wiring harness.(four)A solid block of ice would be caused by some failure in the defrost system of the unit over a period of 30 days. It is a normal buildup of ice from the humidity in the air when you open and close the doors.... Normally it defrost the evaporator coils for about 20 minutes three times a day(every eight hours)
Newer styles use a defrost control curcuit board instead of a timer, and also use the defrost bimetal thermotat to control the fan in the freezer from not running until bimetal closes arould 30 degrees F
My guess is the water dispenser stops working because when the air flow gets changed by the ice build up of the coils it is causing a freeze in the refrigerator section of the coil loop of water tubing behind the lower fresh food drawers. This may go away with fixing the defrost problem
If the unit has a timer most can be manually turned to defrost (hear a click) to test defrost system. This shuts offf cooling(compressor and condensor fan) I can not tell you without testing which part has failed.Just trying to offer some help, good luck
, you might have a defrost problem. Frost free models have a heating element that is controlled by a timer to automatically defrost ice, defrost timer turns on defrost heating element every 12 hours to melt ice in freezer and allow good air flow. You can test defrost element with an ohm meter(located inside freezer coils-will have two wires going to a plug connection), if OK replace defrost timer (located in various places depending on make and model
It sounds like your defrost controller has gone bad. I have an LFC25760 and had ice build up in the bottom of the freezer such that water would start leaking onto the floor. The ice build up in the bottom of the freezer was due to a failing/bad defrost controller. Behind the back white wall in the freezer compartment exists the cooling fins along with a heating element underneath. Due to moisture that comes into the freezer from opening it, frost/ice builds up on the cooling fins. Thus the defrost controller turns on the heating element to melt the ice/frost off of the fins which then drips into a metal pan which channels the water to a drain hole which drops into the drip pan underneath the fridge next to the fan. The problem is that the defrost controller doesn't keep the heating element on long enough or the cooling cycle comes on too soon thereby freezing the water and plugging up the drain. I had my defrost controller replaced (just outside the warranty period!) and it worked for about 1-month and then same thing happened again. Instead of paying for another defrost controller that would probably not work 100% my serviceman used the old paper-clip trick. He took a paper clip, stretched it out and then wrapped one end around the heating element and placed the other end into the drain hole. Thus when the heating element comes on the paper clip keeps the drain hole warm/hot and prevents the water from freezing. It has been 9 months since this fix and I haven't had any ice pooling in bottom of the freezer.