My dishwasher is only 1.5 years old. The water stopped heating up.

I JUST HAD A GUY REPLACE THE DOOR ON MY LG DISHWASHER ONE YEAR A GO. THE BOTTOM GASKET HAD TURNED INTO A TAR LIKE SUBSTANCE. AND WAS LEAKING. TODAY IT WAS LEAKING AGAIN. THE GASKET HAD SWOLLEN AND WAS ALLOWING WATER TO BE FORCED UNDER DOOR AND OVER FLOWING WHEN WATER GOT TRAPPED BEHIND GASKET. I MADE SOME SHEET METAL U SHAPE WITH A BIT LONGER ON ONE SIDE . 4 INCHES LONG AND INSTALLED 4 OF THEM TO SQUEEZE THE GASKET TO THE BOTTOM PAN AND STOP THE UP AND DOWN SWOLLEN SHAPE. NOW I JUST GET WATER FROM TOP GASKET THAT IS DEFORMED AT CORNERS

Hello, On your unit do you see a flashing green light? Usually if the unit is unable to heat it would tend to point towards the unit having an issue with the heating circuit whereas either the heating element has a short in it or a thermister has shorted in the unit. If you happen to have a multimeter you can perform an ohms test, or a continuity test on the element and the thermister as well to assure that these are functioning properly. If you are unable to perform this test with a multimeter I would suggest that you call a service technician to repair your machine. If the element is unable to produce heat in any dishwasher the unit will just fill and then stop and not go any further into the wash cycle due to the water is unable to heat. If you have any further questions message me back. I await your reply.
Thank you,
Rick

Try going into the settings

the heater does not heat the water it keeps it hot check there first id say the heater or thermal is bad if both check good replace control

Light's on mean you have power.

Initiate the self test program by doing the following -

To start test program, press and hold both POWER SCRUB PLUS and RINSE & HOLD program buttons, then turn unit on
by pressing ON/OFF button. When program buttons are released, lights above them will flash. To end test program, press
ON/OFF button.
To check program indicator lights (POWER SCRUB PLUS, REGULAR WASH and RINSE & HOLD), press and hold each
program button. When REGULAR WASH program button is pressed, CLEAN light also comes on.
To start testing, press both POWER SCRUB PLUS and RINSE & HOLD buttons a second time. When testing has ended
and a fault was detected, the following indicator lights will be lit:
POWER SCRUB PLUS = Heater fault
REGULAR WASH = Water filling fault (over or under filling)
RINSE & HOLD = NTC (temperature sensor) fault – note circulation motor stops shortly after it started
during an NTC fault
To check for heater, high limit or flow switch problems, start testing until heating starts. Using a meter with a current coil,
measure current going into dishwasher. If current is ~ 11 A, then heater, high limit and flow switch are OK. If current stays
at ~ 1.5-2 A, then heater, high limit or flow switch are faulty.
If water level switch (f1) has failed (opened), REGULAR WASH light will come on and unit will continually fill and drain
where testing won't be completed. If flow switch (e5) has failed (opened), water won't heat (to 150ºF) and water won’t stop
circulating. If NTC probe (f2/f4) has failed (opened), RINSE & HOLD light will come on immediately and testing will end
shortly after water has started circulating.
If more than one fault occurs, more than one light will be lit.

Let me know what you figure out. I can repair these boards most of the time.

A couple things can be happening here.

1) Make sure the holes in you rotating arms are not clogged up with food particles. If they are clean them out so water will flow freely. Then run an empty dishwasher with a cup of white vinegar, this should clean it real good.

2) The water may not be getting hot enough. The water is heated with the element at the bottom of the dishwasher. A simple way to check this is by stopping the dishwasher at mid wash cycle and touch the water at the bottom of the tub. If it's not very hot, than the element is bad and needs replacing. Just weigh the cost of replacing the element to the cost of a new more efficient dishwasher.

Hope this helps.

have you checked your float valve and float relay switch

Something with the program module , get a technician if worthwhile.
The flow dection (expensive can't be) because pre wash gets water supply. Might be loose wire or broken button. Any handy guy around that can cautious open then model behind the panel and chreck connections. I fixed mine last year with a dot of 2 component glue because of broken switch. Unluckily, the flow detector broke after 10 years (interconnected with automatic water stop

you could fix this, however the price of repair will be 1/2 of the price of a new dishasher.  I would suggest you buy a new oneand not waste money on a six year old dishwasher.  find a good scratch and dent model.  

Hi Guys
My dishwasher this morning has desided to not work correctly.
Its a ASKO 1302 about 20 years old. It has been a very good machine.
Over the last couple of weeks during the washing cycle, the dishwasher has been making a loader noise than usual.
1. Today, the dishwasher timer, travels all the way through its cycle, but very little washing take place.
2. Soap power is still there, plates not clean!!!!
3. Water is hot
4. At the end of the cycle, there is no water in the dishwasher.
5. I'm thinking the problem could be the pump needs replacing.
What do you think?
Greg