Start button starts dryer and dryer stops when button is released.

The thermostat allows power to the igniter. The igniter heats up and warms the radiant sensor, which sends power to open the gas valve.

Check if igniter glows. If not, check for power to the igniter. If no power, check thermostat. If igniter has power and won't glow, its bad.

If igniter glows, check power to gas valve. No power, bad radiant sensor. If gas valve has power and won't open, its bad.

The oven safety valve
(also called the gas valve) is the part that ensures that gas is not released until the igniter has reached the correct temperature needed to ignite the gas. While this part can fail, it is uncommon. If the hot surface igniter does not glow you should first verify that you have voltage to the circuit. This is a live voltage check and should be performed by a qualified person. If voltage is lost at the valve terminals then you should verify the continuity of the bi-metal in the valve using a multi-meter.

The oven burner igniter
commonly known as the hot surface igniter is used in modern gas oven burners to open the gas valve and to ignite the gas. As the igniter draws electric current it will heat to a high temperature and glow, as well as cause the bi-metal in the oven safety valve to warp and open the valve releasing the gas to be ignited. This sequence normally takes about a minute. Igniters come in both flat and round styles and are very fragile. If the burner does not light then you should check the igniter first. If the igniter does not glow at all, then check for power to the circuit. This is a live voltage check and should be performed by a qualified person. If power is present then the igniter may be open circuit and can be checked for continuity with a multi-meter. If the igniter is glowing, but the burner is not lighting, the igniter may be weak and still be at fault because it requires a certain amount of current draw to open the valve. This check requires the use of an amp meter and should be performed by a qualified person. If the igniter is defective then it must be replaced.


The oven safety valve
(also called the gas valve) is the part that ensures that gas is not released until the igniter has reached the correct temperature needed to ignite the gas. While this part can fail, it is uncommon. If the hot surface igniter does not glow you should first verify that you have voltage to the circuit. This is a live voltage check and should be performed by a qualified person. If voltage is lost at the valve terminals then you should verify the continuity of the bi-metal in the valve using a multi-meter.

The oven burner igniter
commonly known as the hot surface igniter is used in modern gas oven burners to open the gas valve and to ignite the gas. As the igniter draws electric current it will heat to a high temperature and glow, as well as cause the bi-metal in the oven safety valve to warp and open the valve releasing the gas to be ignited. This sequence normally takes about a minute. Igniters come in both flat and round styles and are very fragile. If the burner does not light then you should check the igniter first. If the igniter does not glow at all, then check for power to the circuit. This is a live voltage check and should be performed by a qualified person. If power is present then the igniter may be open circuit and can be checked for continuity with a multi-meter. If the igniter is glowing, but the burner is not lighting, the igniter may be weak and still be at fault because it requires a certain amount of current draw to open the valve. This check requires the use of an amp meter and should be performed by a qualified person. If the igniter is defective then it must be replaced.

most likely its gonna be your coil kit, but it could also be ur gas valve,but the gas valve is not common. I would go with the silinoid coil kit first, its much cheaper too

Check Igniter, Igniter Sensor (Senses Igniter is glowing) & gas valve Coils. Remove Front or rear access panel to observe/access these items. Set heated dry cycle & start dryer while observing Igniter, should start to glow bright orange for several seconds, sensor should send millivolt power to valve coils that will CLICK opening valve producing blue flame for heat. If Igniter doesn't glow within a minute, its bad, If it glows & nothing else happens it's either Sensor or Coils are bad, check the coils by using Ohm meter across plug ends of coils, if bad you will get no reading on meter, coil is open & no good, or take both Sensor & Coils to repair shop and have them tested. All 3 are accessable thru access panel opening.

Check the coils on valve or the igniter. Access both thru Access panel on lower right of front panel. Set heated dry cycle & start, igniter should glow bright followed by a "Click" sound, which is valve opening. If it glows and no click, replace the valve coils (2 donut looking objects on top of valve). If no glow, replace igniter, usually just unplug to remove, carefully, they are ceramic and break easy.

Hello gdurawa
Welcome to Fixya
My name is Huum,

You said, upon starting my Kenmore gas dryer the igniter glows and the gas ignites, but the gas goes out after 15 or 20 seconds - clothes don't dry.

This means either the igniter is bad and not getting hot enough to make the gas continue to release completely and stay open, so it shut off.
or you have a bad gas module.
Or a bad gas valve without enough pressure.
Needs to be diagnosed hands on at your location .



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This advice is for problems associated with GAS DRYERS that RUN, but DO NOT HEAT. Ensure your dryer ducting is clear and not clogged, first. ALL dryers require proper air flow in order to dry efficiently. If you do not have any obvious vent duct obstructions you can follow these simple steps in identifying WHICH dryer heating circuit component may be defective BEFORE you have to disassemble anything. With the dryer plugged in and the gas supply turned on, follow these steps:

PUSH START – Listen for a “click”. You have to listen carefully to hear it. If no “click” is heard when you push the start button, this is usually an indication of a bad RADIANT HEAT SENSOR.

PUSH START – “Clicking” sound is present, but dryer still does not ignite. This is usually an indication of a bad IGNITER.

PUSH START – Dryer ignites, but heating circuits shut off after a short period of time. You attempt to restart, but the dryer makes a “buzzing” sound. This is usually an indication of a bad GAS VALVE SOLENOID.

Now, these initial symptom analyses will give you a rough idea of where to begin troubleshooting. These tips are NOT all inclusive, but suited for the more common problems encountered with dryer ignition problems. In theory the dryer ignition works like this – You push the start button and the igniter begins to glow. This igniter will produce a certain current potential (roughly 2.5 to 3.7 amps, depending on type of igniter) and the gas valve will open. Once the gas valve opens, you have ignition. This is a built in safety feature of the unit that prevents free flowing gas inside your home or garage without ignition. If you suspect a bad gas valve solenoid, the dryer usually has two of them. It is recommended that you replace BOTH of them at the same time. If you suspect the igniter to be bad, open the dryer enough to see the burner assembly. There should be a visible glow from the igniter after you push start. If the igniter does NOT glow, replace it. If the igniter DOES glow, take a current reading to see if it is producing enough current. Here are the two types of igniters are their specifications:

Carborundum – cylindrical in shape (2.5 to 3.0 amps)
Norton – Rectangular in shape (3.2 to 3.7 amps)

I hope this information is helpful.

Okay...here's what you need to do to check out a gas dryer:

This advice is for problems associated with GAS DRYERS that RUN, but DO NOT HEAT. Ensure your dryer ducting is clear and **t clogged, first. ALL dryers require proper air flow in order to dry efficiently. If you do **t have any obvious vent duct obstructions you can follow these simple steps in identifying WHICH dryer heating circuit component may be defective BEFORE you have to disassemble anything. With the dryer plugged in and the gas supply turned on, follow these steps:

PUSH START – Listen for a “click”. You have to listen carefully to hear it. If ** “click” is heard when you push the start button, this is usually an indication of a bad RADIANT HEAT SENSOR.

PUSH START – “Clicking” sound is present, but dryer still does **t ignite. This is usually an indication of a bad IGNITER.

PUSH START – Dryer ignites, but heating circuits shut off after a short period of time. You attempt to restart, but the dryer makes a “buzzing” sound. This is usually an indication of a bad GAS VALVE SOLENOID.

Now, these initial symptom analyses will give you a rough idea of where to begin troubleshooting. These tips are NOT all inclusive, but suited for the more common problems encountered with dryer ignition problems. In theory the dryer ignition works like this – You push the start button and the igniter begins to glow. This igniter will produce a certain current potential (roughly 2.5 to 3.7 amps, depending on type of igniter) and the gas valve will open. Once the gas valve opens, you have ignition. This is a built in safety feature of the unit that prevents free flowing gas inside your home or garage without ignition. If you suspect a bad gas valve sole**id, the dryer usually has two of them. It is recommended that you replace BOTH of them at the same time. If you suspect the igniter to be bad, open the dryer e**ugh to see the burner assembly. There should be a visible glow from the igniter after you push start. If the igniter does NOT glow, replace it. If the igniter DOES glow, take a current reading to see if it is producing e**ugh current. Here are the two types of igniters are their specifications:

Carborundum – cylindrical in shape (2.5 to 3.0 amps)
Norton – Rectangular in shape (3.2 to 3.7 amps)

I hope this information is helpful. Post back if you have any questions/concerns.

PS From the initial indications you gave, it sounds like you may have a bad igniter.

Pilot Light? Are you sure? All the gas dryers I've ever worked on were pilot-less. There should be a glow-type igniter that heats up when the dryer is turned on. When it reaches a certain current potential a gas valve is opened and the burner ignites. How old is this dryer? Maybe this is something I've never seen before. Is the dryer working at all? If not, here's a way you can narrow down the possibilities of problems:


You need to gain access to view the inside of the dryer, first. With the dryer plugged in, push the start button. If you hear a "click" and the igniter still does not come on, you probably have a bad igniter. If you don't hear a "click", the radiant heat senor is probably bad causing the igniter not to glow. You have to listen very carefully for the clicking noise, though. It's not very distinct with some dryers. Now, the igniter can glow sometimes and still be bad. The way your dryer works; it looks for a certain current potential (roughly 2.7 to 3.2 amps depending on type of igniter) on the igniter before the gas valve opens to ignite. If the igniter is weak, the gas valve may not open. This is a safety feature that prevents gas from leaking into your home. I hope this may help you. Let me know if I can assist further.

It sounds like to have a bad igniter. In order for your dryer's gas valve to open,the igniter has to be functioning properly. This is a built in safety feature to prevent gas from flowing without ignition. The igniter is located inside the machine usually under the drum near the gas valve. If you can access the inside look for a glow after you push the start button. If there's no glow, your igniter is bad. I hope this helps.