Why won't the saw work when I depress the switches?

You might contact Ryobi support. They do provide suppport for their equipment. Otherwise, perhaps the following page will be of use: https://www.isawguide.com/how-to-unlock-a-ryobi-miter-saw/

https://nextsaw.com/how-to-unlock-ryobi-miter-saw/

However, these references may not apply to a battery operated model. It would be helpful to have a model number in order to provide trooubleshooting guidance. As is, your best bet may be to contact Ryobi. https://www.ryobitools.com/

Not uncommon for the laser lights to stop working . some models have a switch to turn laser on or off that can stop working due to saw dust getting in . May have a broken wire or laser unit may need replacing .

Disconnect it from the wall outlet. Use a VOM set to continuity (i.e ohms) connect one lead to each of the power cords. Depress the start switch. If switch and circuits are good you should get either a low reading or just 0.0. IF you get no reading or really high reading the unit has an internal fault and more troubleshooting will have to be done.

PSU's put out several different voltages if the 12Vs isn't working it won't power the motherboard. Some outputs may still be functioning therefore you may see some lights on and even some fans running. Replace the PSU.

So it's a no crank condition? Do dash lights, gauges, and everything else work when the car won't crank over? If so, buy a cheap $5.00 testlight, and when the car won't crank, pull the small black wire off the starter solenoid. While someone holds the key in start (cranking) position and clutch pedal depressed, see if the black wire has power as it should. (Ground the testlight and just touch the wire's end terminal. If powered, the testlight will light up.) If power there, then the starter solenoid is failing. Toyota starters are very good units, but the solenoid's internal contacts get old and pitted.
If no power at the black wire, then the start circuit from ignition switch to clutch safety switch (on the clutch pedal) to starter relay to starter solenoid will have to be diagnosed. To double-check: take a single battery jumper cable and put it on the positive battery post connection. Put the other end of the jumper cable on the solenoid terminal where black wire was removed. Key can be off. Make sure car is in neutral, brake set. If starter now operates, solenoid is O.K., and it is a problem in the start circuit, -ignition switch, neutral start switch, or in the wiring.
Now find a grounding place for testlight under the dash. When car won't crank, check for power coming out of ignition switch on the black wire with white stripe. This is the start wire for the starter solenoid. Key must be in crank position. Wire shoud be powered-ignition switch is working. If no power, switch is failing. You can do the same for the clutch start switch-it's a simple switch, that when clutch is depressed switch is closed and passes power on from ignition switch to the starter relay (thus allowing power to the starter solenoid). Black wire, red stripe-this is wire from clutch switch to starter relay. When key is in crank, clutch depressed, this wire should be hot.
With me so far? Still haven't found a problem, or any loose connections? Next and last is the starter relay. It is located under dash, close to gas pedal, but under the center console, just forward and left of gear shifter. It can be tested and the wiring diagnosed there, but relays are cheap, so just swap in another and see if that helps.
If you have tried everything, and still no help, you could try a new wire from the relay to the starter solenoid. This is that black wire we started with. Older toyotas sometimes have a problem with degraded wiring not passing enough current to operate the starter

I had the same problem. I attached the blade to the motor incorrectly. Once I put it on right it worked like it was supposed to.

Many power tools have a reset button. They are not always easy to find but this could be a solution.

Some lasers work off batteries. If yours does, you might want to change the battery/batteries.

There is no such stepp to operate a circular saw.The only not ready to operate it is the setings of the angle,thickness,width and Guides for cutting.,and none with the electrical system.Becoz when you plug in & switch it will automatically turn the blades absolutely..
GET RID TO THE INPUT VOLTAGE! be careful .are you here in philippines?if that so,we have a 220-240 volts supply of power here.Read the voltage input of the unit written on the body of the unit itself.If it is 100 0r 110 volts then DONOT plug-in and switch it.you need a transformer.

You either have a break in the cord or the switch is open (broken electrical circuit). Sometimes the cord will get pinched or wound and the wires inside will break. A quick way to test a cord is to crimp the cord in your hand the entire length from the plug to the handle while holding the switch in the on position. If there is a break somewhere crimping the cord should make contact for a couple of seconds and you will get some power to the saw. The best way to check is to use a multi meter to check the continuity of the cord. You will have to remove the switch from the housing and use your meter on the cord. Set your meter to the ohms function and test the continuity of the load and line wires. (Touch one lead of the meter to the blade and the other to the corresponding wire that goes into the switch. Hint the polarized blade side - wide side- is the white wire and the smaller blade is the black wire.) If you have continuity through the wire you can check the switch next. Locate where the cord wires go into the switch and the other two wires that come out. Test at these two points while depressing the switch. If you have continuity in the switch and the cord you need to check the carbon brushes to see if they are worn or broken. If you need any assistance please post back and I will help.