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Could be a shorted output rectifier (diode). This would cause a lot of current pull, and therefore voltage drop (fan slowing down). The electrolytic capacitors are for dc voltage, and will blow with wrong polarity, which means ac voltage would be the wrong polarity half the time.
try to use bare .032 wire and co2 shielded gas, If the equipment does not have a gas solenoid you may have to wire a solenoid to the trigger mechanism to get the gas to flow while the wire is feeding. The bare wire usually copper coated burns much hotter than the flux core when there is a gas shield. Also a .032 bare wire with a gas shield burns a a lower amp range and will get better penetration.
You may have to experiment with the feed rate and gas flow to get the correct setting, but the bare wire has a lot less resistance to current flow than the flux core and will burn a lot hotter when you use a gas shield.
At 115 vac there is not a lot of amperage left to create an arc and run the feeder and the rest of the unit , and the flux core wire takes a lot of amperage to burn both the wire and the flux . .
There may be several reasons the rotisserie burner will not light. First, the orifice to the burner itself may be clogged or partially clogged preventing gas flow. There may be a problem with the spark generator, the wire running from the spark generator to the electrode, or the electrode itself. The first thing to check is the gas flow. When you turn on the valve for the rotisserie burner you should hear and smell the gas if it is flowing. Light the rotisserie burner with a manual lighter, if it lights manually, then the gas if flowing.
The seconc thing to look for is a spark from the electrode when you turn or push, depending on the type of spark generator you have. If there is no spark, the it is most likely an ignition system problem. If you have a battery operated spark generator, replace the battery and try again. If the spark generator is a piezo, you have to repalce the spark generator. If you install a new battery, or replace the piezo spark generator, and there is still no spark, then you have to get to the wire and the electrode. Look for bare spots in the wire insulation that would cause a short. Check the electrode for a cracked or broken insualtor. In either case, the wire and/or the electrode will need to be replaced.
NO - SPARK
Check for spark at spark plug.
1. If no spark, test the wire to the coil with test light and see if you have power to coil.
2.If no power to coil, make sure your on/off button is on and working.Use test light.
A. Power at the switch but not at the coil indicates a broke wire from switch to coil.
B. NO power at the switch indicates ingintion switch is off or faulty and not sending power to your switch , make sure key is on. Use trest light.
3. If you have power to the coil but no spark from the coil - replace the coil
Check for spark at the plug
1.If you have spark at the plug, but not starting - check that your carbs are getting gas.
2.Petcock Could be off, Fuel Filter could be clogged, Carbs could be dirty or clogged and your not getting any gas.
3.Pull spark plug - If no gas present then your not getting gas, if wet then you getting gas and your flooded. Make sure you have good gasoline, Bad gas won't burn.
or your bike is worn out and dont have any compression.
With Good gas, and Good Spark, and Good compresssion, the bike will run.
If your not getting gas to your motor through the carbs, pull carb off and thouroughly clean it.
Here is the long answer with everything we learned while using a power washer twice a day for years:: It covers the things you already tested, but doesn't hurt to repeat. Your problem is actually #8 on list below.
It sounds like could be one of the problems listed below or a combination of those things. 1) The exhaust is partially blocked. Check the screen covering exhaust port for carbon and dirt build-up. High-speed exhaust air must pass freely. We finally broke the exhaust screen out with a screwdriver to get our machine going one day. 2) Gas is not flowing freely to carburetor > under gas tank, find the rubber hose connected to carburetor. Pull off rubber hose and make sure gas flows freely. You can use this hose to drain gas tank of old gas ... and then put in fresh gas. 3) Carburetor is partially gummed up and engine cuts off when gas flow slows down. Buy some gum out, and then don't store power washer with gasoline in the tank. Or put additive in gas when storing machine. 4) The choke is letting in too much gas or not enough gas. Try different adjustments. The choke-lever on our power washer got so bad that we could not set throttle at full open or machine would die. We still use machine at 2/3 throttle, and then start each time using WD-40 as described below. 5) Dirty air filter that won't let engine breath enough air to keep up with combustion. Take off air filter and see if problem persists. 6) The spark coil is going bad?? Change spark plug to see if problem persists. Is spark plug wire pushed all the way onto the spark plug?
Now the nitty gritty 7) Take off air filter. Spray WD-40 directly into carburetor. Yes, we use WD-40 every time to start my power washer, and we use the washer twice a week. Spray in the WD-40, Pull the engine cord. The engine will fire on WD-40. Guaranteed. Once it starts, keep spraying WD-40 directly into carburetor to keep engine going. If engine will not fire on WD-40, then your spark is suspect.
If your engine fires and runs on WD-40 but dies without it, then your gas supply or carburetor are suspect
8) Carburetor problem >>> try Gum out >>> and then take machine to small engine repair shop
9) Spark ... take out spark plug. Put spark wire back on. Hold spark plug by spark wire. Touch metal threads of spark plug to metal opening where plug came out. Metal to metal. Pull back start cord and look for spark between the metal. If you have no spark, then spark coil is bad >>> take machine to small engine repair shop
Try to short the trigger wire back closer to the unit or better still inside the panel somewhere. There is often a relay that is operated that allows gas to flow and power to the wire feed motor. Check where the trigger wire goes it may give you some idea. If you can identify the part you can source one and see if it worthwile repairing. Cheers
Hello Friend, Your problem is very simple to fix. You're dryer needs a gas valve coil kit. To replace coils just remove front of dryer body and look below drum you will see the gas valve. The valve coils are located on top of valve (two little round black cylinders). It's simple, just remove the two screws from the little metal bracket that holds them down, unplug the wires from them and just lift them straight up off of the valve. Take notice that one has 3 wires and one has 2 wires. Just replace with new coils and plug wires back in and re-fasten metal bracket. Your dryer will run like new. Happy to help, Tim.
I had a similar problem on a different gas range but your problem seems the same as mine was.
I examined the underside of the burner and saw a little 'flash' left from the casting process and I filed it off.
This made the problem worse;it wouldn't light at all anymore.
I tried the opposite, blocking off the burner channel from the gas feed pipe to the spark gap; problem solved.
It hasn't had a hiccough since.
I can only imagine that the flow of gas toward the spark gap was so strong, the gas was blowing itself out.
Not knowing exactly how the underside of your burner looks or how the gas is partially diverted to the spark gap but I drilled a small hole in the casting, inserted a length of copper wire (the gauge used in house wiring), then 'tuned' the flow by clipping part of the wire off and trying it.
It might have taken all of 15 minutes to correct the annoying problem.