I need a part for this furnace. Its the female brass fitting that carries freon from the outside unit to the inside. The line snapped inside and I need that part.

have the gas pressure checked by an accredited ac specialist
ice forming on tubing is an indication of liquid in a low pressure line boiling off so that indicates a pressure problem
also any tubes from the outside unit to the evaporator should be insulated properly to prevent icing and loss of efficiency
inside / outside is not the problem , it is the air around the pipe that has humidity that allows the ice to form in the first place

Check for stopped up filter and press reset on outside unit.will. located near Freon lines at bottom of unit

It sounds like your at the point where you need an electrical meter to check out the problem. Make sure you have the proper voltage to the outdoor unit. Could be a bad contactor in the outdoor unit

flushing out water lines do you mean condensate line coming off the furnace that drain to the outside. is the condensing unit outside running when u have it in cooling mode. by condensing unit I mean the unit outside that has lines that run to the inside. does that turn on when u have it in cooling. the unit outside have two components that should turn on the outdoor condenser fan and a compressor.

Few things cause this. Poor or no airflow inside the furnace, dirty filters, poor filter placement that will cause your indoor cooling coil to plug with dirt, or low freon pressure.

Hello, I can tell you where everything is at. Did all my lines in Feb 2011. The rear lines on a F150 come from each rear wheel and they are rubber until the end of their brackets. Metal lines take over and meet at a vent tube holder on the Drivers side of the axle. An overhead rubber line with a splitter is bolted to a threaded vent tube and each rear wheel line fits in the brass block that is part of the Rubber line.

Each rear wheel line has a different size fitting to avoid mix ups. The brake line is the same diameter throughout. All use inverted flare fittings. It is a pain to get the fittings beforehand as they are mixed sizes.

The rubber line with a splitter meets a metal line topside of the frame around the frame hump for the rear wheels. The line is on rubber hangers as it travels toward the front of the truck and meets a metal union just short of the fuel filter. The metal line goes through the frame and tightly runs past the bottom of the Drivers fender and goes outside the frame until it meets the front wheelwell.

The same line crosses back into the inside of the frame and runs parallel with the frame, past the A arms and then ends up attaching to the ABS unit.

The Dealer probably does not have preformed lines. Every combination of bedsize and cabsize will determine how long some of the brake lines are. (Based on wheelbase.)

You have 2 choices. Get a preformed Stainless kit with front lines too, around $200. Make your own and spend hours assembling, bending, and flaring fittings after buying the line and the fittings.

You can go with cheap lines or use what I did, a copper/nickel mixed metal line that Volvo perfected with an extended salt corrosion resistance. It really is a job you only want to do once.
Gotta hand it to the brake mechanics who do it every day.

Here is a Summary. 2 Rubber hoses from each wheel, 2 metal lines to the threaded brass block on the vent tube. 1 rubber hose with the brass block. Then a long run of brakeline, then a connection around the fuel filter, and another long run of brakeline outside and back inside the frame to the ABS unit.

I wish you luck on this repair. I hope my Solution is very helpful.

You would normally terminate the copper or brass with a male adapter and join the plastic to it using a female adapter. The metal with expand and contract more than the plastic hence the reason it is 'inside' the plastic female. If you are unable to use this configuration please add more details about what you are up against.

John

OK lets see what we can help you with here. The condensate drain is clogged. There are a couple of ways to clear this clog so lets give it a try. If you know where the drain for the a/c is located outside (usually by the outside condenser unit) it will be a pipe that is just sticking out of the side of the house, if you find it take a wet/dry vac and place it on this pipe and turn the vacuum on and make a seal with your hand this should unclog the drain. If you don't find this pipe outside the house then go to the furnace and you will see at the bottom of the furnace a pipe (PVC) white, this is the drain for the unit inside. Take the wet/dry vac and have it at the ready in the event the clog is further down the line than at the furnace itself now the fittings on this pipe should not be glued together due to the ability to access for this very purpose. Take the pipe apart at one of the fittings and place the wet/dry vac on the end of the pipe towards the furnace and using your hand make a seal and evacuate the line. Do this to both sides since you don't know where the blockage is. If you are unable to separate the pipe at any fitting you will need to cut the pipe and at the spot of the cut you will need to repair it with a sleeve. Remember that the drain pipe is plastic and is made of pvc so you can get a repair coupling from any home improvement store for this repair.
Hope this helped you some
Dave

I went to Home Depot for the same reason.Ended up getting a brass fitting with a cpvc insert that excepted the cpvc pipe to be glued into brass fitting once it was screwed in place.Came out about a foot then used a coupler to join both cpvc pipes so in the future I can replace meter without cutting pipe.Im not a plummer just a home owner who cant afford one so I dont know if I did it right but it works.

When the lines freeze it is a sign of a low charge. You need to have the unit serviced.