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here is an excellent break down of your trimmer, I will explain what has to be done. First remove the four screws that hold the handle plastic housing that the throttle trigger is in to the base of the eng cover on shaft side, you may have to disconnect your throttle cable from carb. or from trigger assy,which ever is easier. then slide motor off shaft and set on bench, next you have to remove the clutch off the eng, so remove spark plug and stuff rope,clothesline what ever soft type rope you may have(nothing with wire or cable in it this will cause damage to cylinder) into spark plug hole , this keeps eng from rolling over while you are removing the allen screw that is inside the center of the clutch cover, turn counterclockwise to remove screw, next the clutch housing will come off after removing the center screw. then you are at the clutch itself take a screwdriver and give it a couple hard blows with hammer towards the left (counter clockwise) being carefull to only put screwdriver on edge of clutch and not on the dogs directly. next unscreww clutch off shaft and finally you remove I think it is four possibly five screws from plastic eng housing and the cover comes off and youn are finally there! next there is a plate inside there held on with 2 screws remove the carefully and carefully remove you spool without removing the rewind spring, and install the new rope, next put spool back in place and there is a cut out for rope on side of spool so once it is in place you can wind the spring clockwise i believe approx 3-4 turnes and tie your pull handle on it and put plate back over it and secure the 2 screws to it and route your wires accordingly to miss any movein parts. next check that the rope pulls out all the way and retracts all the way and doesen't bind up , if every thing is O.K. then reverse the procedure and you will have it back together in no time and running, make sure you hook up your on/off switch and carb. linkage. don't for get to rate this ...... Have Fun !
Remove the shaft assembly at the motor, there should be one or two screws on the boom clamp. Remove the four screws holding the starter housing on. Inside the front of the housing is an air baffle you don't have to remove and the starter pulley. Remove it carefully, you don't want the spring to come out of its container. Remove any vestiges of the old starter rope and install the new one with no more than three or four windings depending on the thickness of the rope you bought. Install the pulley in the housing with the rope through the slot in the pulley so you can wind it a couple times to catch the spring and start the tension. It should be tight enough to just pull the string back into the housing. Feed the rope through the hole in the housing then through the t-handle and tie a knot so it won't pull back through the handle. Put the housing on the motor, no screws yet, and pull the rope out to make sure nothing is binding and the rope retracts fully into the housing. If it's too tight use the slot in the pulley to take one winding out. If the t-handle dangles, add a turn to the pulley. Reassemble housing and boom and you're ready to go.
It does unscrew from the shaft. The Torx screw holding it is hidden and doesn't come out of the housing once it is loosened. It is screwed into the end of the shaft. You will have to keep the engine from turning to loosen it. Pull spark plug out and move piston to bottom of stroke. Put some nice, soft, clean rope in the cylinder and let the piston compress it when you turn the Torx screw in the clutch rotor housing.
take the 4 bolt out of the starter housing, lay on table take the old rope out. turn the center rope pulley counter clock 6 to 7 full rotation's so the center pulley hole lines up with out housing hole(steck a screw drive throw to hold pulley in places). feed the rope from outer throw the center tie off. let the pulley dr ow the rope in. pull the rope out a Little tie off to handle
Take the 4 bolts/screws loose that hold the shaft onto the weed-eater body, You will see the clutch drum, you need a long T20 TORX driver to loosen the screw in the center of the drum shaft. The screw probably won't come all the way out, so just pull the drum off as you loosen it.
Next you will see 3 flat clutch discs.
You may need to remove the spark plug and stuff some starter rope in the combustion chamber to keep the shaft from turning.
Unscrew these one at a time with a pair of large slip joint pliers. Be careful not to bend them and note which way they face. They unscrew clockwise I believe.
Once you have these out of the way, continue taking apart the plastic housing to gain access to the starter rope assembly. There is a spring under the rope reel, so remove the screw holding the reel in place and carefully remove the rope reel and spring.
Replace the rope, put the reel back in place and make sure the sping egages the little tab. Then wind it a few turns until there is moderate tension on the spring.
Feed the rope through the body and tie it to the T-handle. Replace the hold down screw that keeps the rope reel in place.
Test the pull tension before reassembly. It should retract the rope fully without too much tension and should not be loose. Lubricate the rope reel where it rubs against the housing with some light grade oil or lithium grease.
If everything functions, put it back together in reverse order.
Remove the rope from the combustion chamber and make sure there is no debris in it. Install the spark plug. You should be ready to go.
Super pumps are very easy. If it is a northstar it is more difficult. Super pump. You will need 1 motor, 1 pump seal, 1 diffuser gasket, 1 housing gasket. turn off breaker, disconnect wires -noting whether it is 110 or 220 volts- , unscrew four bolts on back of pump housing (shaft side of motor), pull out motor with rear housing and diffuser (sometimes diffuser sticks inside), on wire side of motor hold shaft with wrench (flathead in some cases, but it is harder), unscrew impeller counter clockwise (like normal screw - you will nee a big pair of channel locks or a strap wrench), there are two pieces of the back housing and once the impailer is off you can remove the half that is closest to the end of the shaft to reveal four more screws, unscrew those four screws. screw back part of rear housing onto new motor. Install new pump seal to front part of rear housing and impeller, slide on front part of rear housing and then screw on impeller while holding shaft on wire side with wrench (only hand tight), replace housing gasket, replace diffuser gasket, slide into front housing and screw in four bolts. If electrical was 110 you will need to move the jumper on the wire end..if it was 220 then just hook kup wires...doesnt matter which is which as long as green or bare goes to the ground screw.
HOW TO OPEN MIELE 251 VACCUUM:
1-Unplug from wall and disconnect power cord
2-Remove black switch panel at back of top panel:
A-Use Phillips screwdriver, remove two silver screws visible between back of hinged top door and front of black switch panel B-Push back of the panel down while pushing it forward (towards front of machine). There are two plastic notches and clips which are tightly fit together that you need to separate. Once it releases, push it a bit more towards the front of the machine and lift off panel. It has wires connecting it to the main body so it will not remove completely. C-Be careful not to lose the springs that simply sit inside of two plastic channels, one under each of the two switches. These are required for your witches to operate properly.
3-Locate screw at bottom of deep rectangular hole now revealed (under former location of black switch panels). Unscrew using Phillips screwdriver.
4-Open hinged top panel. Locate two silver screws, one on each side of main housing. Unscrew using Phillips screwdriver.
5-This will let you lift off the whole top assembly, door and main housing, revealing the plastic chassis and the motor unit within.
You now have access to the motor, wiring connector harnesses, circuit board and the cord reel.
My coupler was split in two, and I couldn't screw it off. I had to do the following:
1. Take the blender apart (mine had 2 screws on the bottom).
2. Remove the motor housing from the blender (mine was loose from removing the two screws earlier).
3. Remove the fan by removing the fan nut.
4. Take apart the motor housing. Mine had two machine screws with 1/4" hex heads holding a bracket that tied the two ends together. Once those two screws are removed, you can take the motor out of the housing. Be careful on the fan end of the motor, because it's got two spring loaded brushes that will come together once the motor is pulled through.
6. Once you have the motor out of the housing, you'll have something to grab onto so you'll be able to unscrew the broken coupler. I used a pair of channel locks and gently grasped the motor body, and then just used a regular pair of pliers to grab the broken coupler. It's regular thread (lefty lucy righty tighty), so twist accordingly.
Once you have the coupler off, just put everything back together. The hardest part is holding apart the spring loaded brushes while you push the fan end of the motor shaft back through the motor housing.
Took me about 20 minutes to do everything.
I removed the impeller on my DW761UQB. The instructions were molded into the plastic pump housing. This is how I DID MINE: Remove motor mount screws. Remove the chopper screw (screw only goes into impeller, not motor shaft). Remove chopper and rotate/remove strainer. Place socket or wrench on impeller tip and place another wrench on rear of motor's plastic fan. Unscrew fan from impeller shaft ( threads are LEFT handed, turn CW). Once fan is 'backed off' of the impeller, CAREFULLY pry the motor/fan from pump housing (impeller is attached to motor shaft via splines). Don't crack the delicate plastic pump housing. Mine was stuck, but separated with moderate force. Now remove the impeller/seals from the pump housing. This worked for MY above mentioned model, I don't know what other models it applies to. I am not a pro.