Question about Whirlpool Calypso GVW9959K Top Load Washer

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Dead Front Panel, Error 42, Whirlpool Calypso GVW9959KQ

I've had a Whirlpool Calypso GVW9959KQ since Nov 2001. I had to replace the undulator joint and tub gasket a few years ago but it's run OK since then. About 4 weeks ago the dreaded dead front panel with error "42" cropped up. No amount of unplugging and waiting made any difference. A bit of WEB searching indicated the control board was bad. I replaced front panel control board P/N 8520867 (aka P/N 661640) Rev B with P/N 8571359 and the washer worked just fine again for about 1 week. Now I have the same "42" failure. Can you suggest what caused this apparent repeated failure? Is there something else in the machine that's frying the control boards?

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

Hi there,
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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catriver
  • 878 Answers

SOURCE: whirlpool calypso washine machine

Skeet, verify you have 120vac to connector P-16 pins 2 and 4. If you don't have the power, check breaker, outlet, line filter, cord itself. If you do have that power, go to P-1 on the motor control board (left one), you should have 120vac across it's 2 terminals. If not it's probably the main board. Catriver..post back.

Posted on Oct 09, 2006

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localwonder
  • 6784 Answers

SOURCE: whirlpool calypso no control panel lights or

Yes, this particular brand is notorious for this. the actual control boards were reconfigured to no avail.

Unfortunately, you will need to replace this failed control once more.

Posted on Jun 19, 2009

  • 39 Answers

SOURCE: I have a CE error on the Calypso washer. I remove

First off is it under waranty and second you will need to find out what Ce stands for.Ask a repair shop and they might let you know what the code stands for.
No need changing something that don't need to be.
If it's not under waranty I would say yes you could replace it.The wires are usually all different and no way to get them hooked up wrong.(Note Just Make Sure It's Unlugged.)

Posted on Oct 22, 2009

  • 410 Answers

SOURCE: Whirlpool duet Sport wfw8300sw02, is a piece of

I am not a repair professional. I am a 78 year old man who has been making his own repairs for about 50 years. So the washer or dryer ID doesn't mean much to me. I came to fixya looking for a schematic for an really old AM/FM radio and found that more than 4,700 people were asking for help with a washer repair. I recently had a washer repair of my own and at that time I found an excellent video which showed me how to take my machine apart. This video made it possible for me to do my own repair. If you are repairing a dryer or a front load washer I suggest you
go to www.applianceaid.com where they have very good step by step trouble shooting and repair information on both washers and dryers as well as other appliances. If you have a direct drive top load washer and need help taking it apart this video is an early christmas present. I was so impressed with it that when I saw all these people needing help, I wanted to tell them about it. If you look at the back of your washer and the panel is solid (no small inspection plate to remove which would indicate you have a v-belt drive) chances are you have a direct drive and this video is just what you need. You can see it at www.acmehowto.com You will probably still need help in determining what the trouble is and how to fix it. After viewing the video or if you have a v-belt drive rather than a direct drive, I suggest you go to www.applianceaid.com where they have very good
trouble shooting and repair nformation on most
washers and dryers. I think you'll find what you need
there. Don't worry about the timer, they hardly ever
go bad. Good luck with it. If I have helped you, please rate my advice on fixya.

Posted on Dec 04, 2009

blueextc3221
  • 15935 Answers

SOURCE: Whirlpool GHW9400 Front Load Washer dl error again!

1. Unplug washer.
2. Remove the outer portion of the door bellow. This is the gray rubber boot around the door. Feel around the edge of the door bellow where it attaches to the front of the washer. You will find a wire retaining hoop in the seam between the rubber and the front case. Follow this wire hoop to the bottom of the door bellow and you will find a tension spring. Carefully, stretch this spring apart and remove the wire hoop.
3. Pull the rubber bellow from the door facing on the front of the washer being careful not to rip or tear it. Once removed, fold the rubber backwards inside the drum so you can access behind the front panel. DO NOT remove the rubber bellow from the wash tub.
4. The door latch assembly is located behind the front panel of the washer on the right hand side. Locate and remove the three screws on the washer front that hold the door latch assembly in place. The whole assembly should come free from the washer front and be held by a plastic mounting bracket and several wire connectors.
5. Carefully remove the latch assembly from the plastic mounting bracket BEFORE attempting to unplug any wires. It makes it much easier to access if you do.
6. Unplug the wire connectors using care not to break any of the wires. You may want to write them down, but I believe they will only plug into their respective slots.
7. Remove the old door latch and install the new one in the reverse order of the steps I just presented to you. Plug the wires back in first, then place the whole assembly back into the plastic mounting bracket, and then reattach to the front of the washer.
8. Now, when you get the reinstalling the rubber door boot, you may want to get the assistance of a second pair of hands as it can be difficult sometimes to manipulate the wire retainer back into place. Carefully reattach the rubber bellow to the door facing on the front of the washer first.
9. Starting at the top of the door bellow at the 12 o'clock position begin inserting the wire hoop back into the groove. Work your way around with both hands to the 4 and 8 o'clock positions. (This is where you could use those second pair of hands). While holding a slight downward tension on the wire hoop to keep it in place, pull the tension spring apart enough to snap the remaining part of the hoop into place at the bottom. Once you've completed these steps make sure the door closes and latches properly. NEVER slam a door with an electronic latch. They can break easily.

Now plug the washer back in and test operate. NOTE: You can run diagnostics on these washers by referring to the tech sheet provided by the manufacturer. The tech sheet is located behind the lower panel under the door, or along the interior cabinet walls. Included, are instructions on how to run diagnostics and troubleshooting tips associated with the list of fault codes. It is recommended that this tech sheet remain inside the washer to prevent it from being lost.


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Posted on Sep 28, 2010

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The first thing to try is to unplug and wait a few minutes, and plug back in to clear board...
If there is still water in the unit you may need the pump replaced or there may be something in it.(it may have sensed a flood and locked out)

Lastly if you want to go further you need to remove the front panel by peeling back the emblem right in front, there is a screw you remove, pull the top out and up, you will see the screws holding the front panel on.
there is a tech sheet inside.in this model. (a lot of washers are in the control panel) There are switches that are not depressed when you take the panel off, these are ground protection from the motor.(high voltage main)

It is also possible there is a main control board problem.
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