Immediate shut down

Try resecuring the ribbon cable. make sure that none of the metal contacts on the cable is bent or broken.

The control voltage from the main board to back-light inverter section circuit has the fault. In fact; the main digital board has the fault. If you wish to get some details; check the site linked here. Pull up older posts.
http://electronicshelponline.blogspot.com/

Fault at its main digital board. Short circuited component/s at it. Contact any service technician; or the authorized service center. If you wish to get some details; check the site linked here. Pull up older posts.
http://electronicshelponline.blogspot.com/
In most cases, the main board might have to be replaced. If so, a software [firmware] update too might be necessary.
Before going further; try a hard reset first. If it does not help you, replace the main digital board. There are two methods to reset TVs. The first is simple to do; a Hard Reset. The other is somewhat skilled; is a Factory Reset (System Reset). To make it a hard reset, just unplug the TV from AC mains wall socket, and re-plug it back after 15 minutes or so. If you do this by overnight is better. This procedure will make it a hard reset. If you want to make it a system reset [Factory Reset]; you have to enter its service mode option, and select the factory reset option. If you wish to get some details; visit the site linked here.

DID YOU CHECK YOUR FUSES? Is there anything lighting up on it to see if it is in fact turning on? If it's lighting up and there is no protection lights lit up then check your speakers to make sure you didn't burn them up. If there is a protect LED lit then unhook your speakers and see if it stays lit or not. If it stays lit then check to make sure you're getting enough voltage at the amp connection, minimum of 11.0 volts is required just to get it to turn on. If it has under voltage and over voltage protection LEDs see if they're lit. If you do all of these things and are getting enogh voltage, your speakers are not burnt, your protection LEDs are lit no matter what then you need warranty repair that amp. If your speaker wires are shorted it will make your amp shut down also, but since you were using it for a day or so my bet is that you burnt up one of your speaker voice coils and it's internally shorted and that will cause your amp to shut down in protect mode. Otherwise you probably internally fried your amp by too low of voltage or not enough current (amperage) due to not large enough conductor (too small gauge wire) should be minimum of 8 Ga. for each amp, 2 amps will require 4 Ga, 3 or more will need 2 Ga, or 0 Ga. wiring to keep the voltage and current flow high enough to keep from damaging the amps. Good Luck!

Is the power LED on the monitor ON, if not check the power cable connection at the monitor and at the mains.
Check the video cable connection at the PC.
Try a different working monitor on your PC and see if the monitor works on a different PC (the monitor maybe faulty).

possible wiring problem have truck scanned the trouble code will narrow down the location of ur problem some auto stores such as auto zone / advanced auto do it for free check ur local area

Check your mains adapter plug that connects into the laptop power socket with a multi-meter, the voltage should be slightly higher than the voltage that is printed on the label on the bottom of the adapter. If the voltage is zero or way below the voltage that is printed on the label then the power adapter is faulty and needs to be replaced.

If the adapter is OK then connect it to the laptop and power it up, then look at the power/battery charging LED light and wriggle the power plug in the laptop's power socket. If the power/battery LED light flashes and in a certain position this LED light stays firm, then the power socket is either faulty or it has a dry solder joint where it is connected to the motherboard.
This can be repaired but it requires the laptop to be completely dismantled to get at this power socket and repair. I suggest you get a quote first.

a short circuit in the heater wire will cause an immediate loss of all flame, pilot and main; check the wiring diagram and make sure your pilot wires go to the PP and PP/TH terminals; make sure the terminals are clean and the connection is good; you are dealing with .320 volts DC, any bad connection drops the voltage below the required minimum.

Whats your camera make / model?
I have found this problem in the past mainly on samsung cameras. All I found was bad connections and poor solder joints.
connection problems with ribbons mainly. Samsung seem to prefer tinned ends as opposed to gold plated ribbon connections and these are just waiting to discolour and then fail.
Bad connections will drain batteries very fast and especially if your using cheap ones

Hi there, it sounds like your thermopile, for the pilot, is failing during use, when this happens, the small DC voltage it generates is less than the gas valve requires to stay open, and shuts off the pilot, which shuts off the main burners. Another thing that could be happening, is the hi limit is opening prematurely, instead of shutting of the pilot at 450 deg. it now is opening at 325, or 225 or 250. Sometimes the sensing bulb gets broken where it pass's through the oil tank causing this symptom. If you temporarily bypassed the hi limit to test this also, and it still goes off, you need a thermopile. If it stays on, check your temp with a reliable thermometer, and see if it reads fairly close to your setting, if so, then you need a hi limit.
Hope that helps, and thank you.