Question about Kenmore Elite HE4 Electric Dryer

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Kenmore Elite HE4 - Smartheat Quietpak9

My dryer was working fine -- that it wasn't. After making a selection, the lights come on. But, when I hit the start button -- it beeps a few times and does nothing. It's only about two years old. HELP.

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  • jjoey Nov 15, 2007

    Same thing just happened to me. All the lights work, machine beeps, but will not start.

  • DeadDryer Nov 16, 2007

    Holding the door switch in with my hand and then starting the dryer, gave me the same result. I didn't get any codes -- just the number of minutes was displayed.

    Any other suggestions? Thanks for the help.

  • DeadDryer Nov 17, 2007

    Let me start by saying, I think you are right about the door switch.

    I pulled the lint filter out and removed the housing. I'm not sure what the fuse should look like, but here is what I see: a black and a yellow wire attached to the lint housing. On the inside of the housing unit there are two silver 1/8" x 6 metal strips. I read in the troubleshooting instructions that I should run the diagnostics [more time, less time, more time, less time]. Then I was told to put my finger across the two metal strips to test it. I successfully got a beep, which indicated there was not a problem at that location.

    I ran the diagnostics and got all light to light up red except the 'clothes' dry is green. The minutes displayed 59? I opened and closed the door firmly, but nothing changed. According to the diagnostics, it should have beeped [it didn't] and the display should have gone to 88 or blank.

    What do you think?


  • DeadDryer Nov 17, 2007

    You're right about the slack in the wires -- I had open everything up to get to it.

    Now I'm waiting for the parts store to open -- then I'll get my new switch and hopefully all will be working.

    In the meantime, should I be able to use my volt/ohm meter to confirm [continuity?] that the switch is defective?

    Thanks -- I appreciate the advice.

  • DeadDryer Nov 20, 2007

    Ok. It's working. I ordered the switch - 2 days out of NY. In the meantime, I bypassed the switch with a wire. Everything looks great.

    Thanks for the help watugot. A+.

    [Formerly] DeadDryer

  • boygenius Nov 21, 2007

    I have the same problem, but I am getting a code 4E could someone please tell me what that means.


  • judy1242 Dec 30, 2007

    dryer door will not lock when you press start, time will flash and a beeping sound, but will not start and no codes

  • haclarke Jul 14, 2008

    We have the same problem. The dryer doesn't start. You can select your settings but when you push start, there is a click but the dryer doesn't start. Did the diagnostic with no resolution. The dyer is less than 2 years old. Sears was not helpful, other than wanting to take my money.

  • Anonymous Dec 09, 2008

    I have no heat but it spins and shows no error msg.



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Dryer heats but will not dry clothes. Uncloged linted in screen and where the tube is. Did not fix the promblem. Could it be the heating element? And if so what is the cost to replace it?

Posted on Jul 27, 2009

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Need a conversion kit from propane back to natural gas for this dryer

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My clothes dryer doesnt heat. what's wrong?

Posted on Mar 28, 2010

I had the same problem with the beeping and nothing happening. My solution was to check the control board. The link below lead me to the problem, read the posting on 9/2/2007.

The culprit was a solder connection on the motor relay. I removed the conformal coating (clear layer on the board to protect from moisture) and clean/repair one of the leads. Plugged it back in and BAM it worked . Hope this helps.


Posted on Feb 01, 2008

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It sounds like a door switch problem. Make sure the door is latching properly at the top. If the top latch doesn't engage properly the door switch won't make contact.
Try holding the door switch closed with your finger and starting the dryer. If it still wont start and you have no codes displaying you will most likely have to replace the switch.
Post back to let me know what you find and I will walk you through more checks if needed.

Posted on Nov 15, 2007

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  • Michael  Lindley
    Michael Lindley Nov 17, 2007

    Unplug the dryer and remove the bottom front panel. Take out the lint filter and then remove the lint filter housing. You will see a white thermal fuse mounted on the air duct with blue wires going to it. Hook the blue wires together. MAKE SURE THEY DO NOT TOUCH ANYTHING ELSE. Plug the dryer back in and see if it will start. If it will, you need a new thermal fuse. If not, you are back to most likely needing a door switch.

    That is about the only checks you can do unless you have a volt/ohm meter to see where you have power.

    Post back and let me know what you find.


  • Michael  Lindley
    Michael Lindley Nov 17, 2007

    Yes, you did the test correctly. I should have told you to do the diagnostic test first. I had a rough day yesterday and was not thinking clearly last night. I appologize.

    Unplug the dryer.

    The door switch will pop out from the front. I use my knife blade to pry out on the right side of the switch and roll the switch out.

    There may or may not be enough slack in the wires for you to be able to get them hooked to the new switch. I am usually able to grab the wires with some needle nose pliers just behind the connectors and pull enough slack to plug the switch in.

    If they are too short you will have to remove the top and console to reconnect them after you put the new switch in.

    Remove the screws at the rear of the top and it will slide back and lift up.

    Remove the screws holding the support that runs from the console to the rear of the cabinet. Slide it off the console and let it rest on the drum.

    You will see two screws holding the console to the cabinet from the inside of the machine. Remove them and the console will slide up and off. You should have enough slack in tke wires to set the console on the drum. From this point you should be able to reach the wires on the door switch.

    Post back if you have any trouble or questions.


  • Michael  Lindley
    Michael Lindley Nov 17, 2007

    Yes you can check it. One of the terminals is common, one goes to the light, one goes to the control. I don't remember which is which off the top of my head but you should be able to figure it out. You should be have continuity from common to the light terminal with the switch in open position and continuity from common to the other terminal in closed position.

    It is refreshing to hear from someone on this site that even knows what a volt/ohm meter is. Most of the time when I mention checking something with a meter, I never hear back from them.



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