Turbo Air M3R47-2 Reach-In Refrigerator Logo
Colin Gutierrez Posted on Jun 17, 2015
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The same control PCB is used for the refrigerator and freezer, but the setting of the PCB is 1 if fitted in a freezer and 0 if fitted in a refrigerator. Does anybody know how to change this setting?

Apparently the same control PCB is used for the refrigerator and freezer, but the setting of the PCB is 1 if fitted in a freezer and 0 if fitted in a refrigerator. Does anybody know how to change this setting?

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Lawrence Oravetz

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  • Turbo Air Master 10,558 Answers
  • Posted on Jun 21, 2015
Lawrence Oravetz
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Look for a jumper much like the kind you find on Hard drives and computer motherboards. If there is one. there will be indicators printed on the board.

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Canon ir 2220 ERROR CODE E261

U NEED TO INVESTIGATE
the input/output ports of the DC controller PCBs.
COPIER>I/O>DC-CON<DC-CON (5/7)>
P020 xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx=runs from left to right 15>0
ADDRESS=P020

BIT-
0- zero-cross signal -
1- heater trigger 1 signal 0: ON
2- heater trigger 2 signal 0: ON
3- heater error OFF signal 0: error
4- not used
5- not used
6- M9 registration motor phase A pulse signal -
7- M9 registration motor phase B pulse signal -

E261 0000
The intervals of zero-cross signals deviate from the tolerance range while
the fixing heater is supplied with power.
Main cause The wiring is faulty (short circuit, open circuit). The main power supply
PCB is faulty. The DC controller PCB is faulty.
Making Corrections
1. Connectors
Are the connectors J205 on the main power supply PCB and the connector
J308B on the DC controller PCB securely connected?
(zero-cross signal: J205-7 <-> J308B-1)
NO: Connect the connectors securely.

2. Main power supply PCB, Main controller PCB

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YES: End.
NO: Replace the DC controller PCB.
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Miele kf 3855 s-6 fridge part not working. Where is the thermostat?

The PCB is probably the temperature controller and most likely uses electronic temperature sensors in the refrigerator and freezer sections. Not having seen this model before, I'm guessing, but perhaps there is a problem with defrosting such as a clogged defroster drain tube, and the insulation between the freezer and refrigerator is iced up. This could also coat the refrigerator temperature sensor in ice if it is on the divider between the two compartments, thus fooling the controller into thinking the refrigerator is too cold. A manual defrost or drain tube inspection should rule this out.
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The back of the fridge is frozen and food is not getting cold anymore

Try this first:

Self Diagnostics

To enter Self Diagnostic mode, both temperature control panel displays must be illuminated. A display can be illuminated by pressing an adjacent temperature adjustment button. When both displays are illuminated, set the freezer and refrigerator temperature settings to 5. Simultaneously press and hold all

4 temperature adjustment buttons for approximately 3 seconds. A flashing 0 in the refrigerator and freezer displays will indicate that the refrigerator is in Self Diagnostic mode.

For temperature control panels with single-digit displays, the COLDER temperature adjustment button will increment the numbers up and the WARMER temperature adjustment button will increment the numbers down. Use the freezer temperature adjustment buttons to enter the test code number in the freezer display. Use the refrigerator temperature adjustment buttons to enter the test code number in the refrigerator display. When a test code has been entered, the displays will flash to confirm the test. Press the HOLD button for 3 seconds to begin the test.


For temperature control panels with 3-digit displays, the COLDER temperature adjustment button will increment the numbers down and the WARMER temperature adjustment button will increment the numbers up. Use the freezer temperature adjustment buttons to enter the test code number in the freezer display. Use the refrigerator temperature adjustment buttons to enter the test code number in

the refrigerator display. When a test code has been entered, the displays will flash to confirm the test

code. Press any button other than a temperature adjust button to begin the test.

When testing has been completed, do one of the following things:

• Enter code 1 5 to completely reset the system.

• Enter code 1 6 to exit diagnostic mode. The temperature control panel is reset automatically.

• Unplug the refrigerator for at least 10 seconds. Test mode will terminate when the refrigerator is plugged back in.
Test mode will terminate automatically after 15 minutes of inactivity.


You need to cycle your freezer display to indicate 0 and your refrigerator display to 7.


Control and Sensor System Self-Test (0 7)

This test checks all five thermistors located throughout the unit. Once the test is initiated, the test code (0 7) will stop flashing and the thermistor test results will appear on the freezer display in the test order listed below. The thermistor test sequence number will not be shown on the display.

If the unit is not equipped with the Quick Chill option, the third thermistor (quick chill) will display a 0 and 3 audible beeps will sound at the temperature control panel. This is not a failure if the unit is not equipped with the Quick Chill option.

Thermistor test results:

• P = Pass

• 0 = Failed

• S = Short to 5 VDC

• B = Bad amplifier

Thermistor test sequence is:

1. Fresh food top thermistor

2. Fresh food bottom thermistor

3. Quick chill thermistor (displays 0 if unit is not equipped with Quick Chill option)

4. Evaporator thermistor

5. Freezer thermistor

Note: Thermistor test results will be displayed in the sequence shown above. The thermistor test sequence number will not be shown on the display.


Note the failures if any. Should ANY of thermistors fail you must replace it.


Having said that... at this point your stick with doing a manual defrost by unplugging the unit and directing a fan into the compartment for just over 2 hours to make sure ALL of the ice on the coils and in the drains has melted. (Yes it makes a water mess!)


After the manual defrost restart the unit / plug it in and once the compressor starts listen for the evaporator fan when the door switch is actuated and the condenser fan in the bottom of the unit any time the compressor is running. If either of the fans are not running you must find out why. Can be a door switch, motor winding or power to the motor. The door switch does not affect the condenser fan.


Finally if the unit is not automatically defrosting due to a component failure... i.e

Heater, themistor, or wiring you will see ice build up again in 2 to 3 days again and you will have to keep going through the manual defrosting routine until the automatic defrosting problem is resolved.


Thanks for choosing FixYa.

Kelly

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Your refrigerator temperature should be between 35-40 degrees F, the freezer should be 0-8 degrees F. Both of the control settings should be in the middle, so if its on a scale of 1-9, 5 is middle, if its on a scale of A-J, E or F would be the middle, if its a temperature setting, 37 and 0 is normal setting.
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My Hotpoint FFS70N refridgerator (out of guarantee) is malfunctioning. Both the upper fridge cabinet and the freezer cabinet are at room temperature despite the temperature settings (at cold). There is...

Hi and Welcome to FixYa. I am Kelly.

There are many things that can cause your existing symptoms.

1. The Unit is controlled by an all-in-one control board that often is the main failure.
This l;ink is used as an example but is the control board for your unit:
http://www.espares.co.uk/part/fridges-and-freezers/hotpoint/ffs70n/p/1084/808/0/434869/808166/pcb-(printed-circuit-boar.html

2. The PTC Relay Device (Danfoss)
Part Link no picture: ptc-device.html">http://www.espares.co.uk/part/fridges-and-freezers/indesit/p/1084/805/0/0/808237/refrigerator-ptc-device.html

3. The run capacitor: (Again no picture) 4 uf cap
http://www.espares.co.uk/part/fridges-and-freezers/indesit/p/1084/805/0/0/807896/run-capacitor-4uf.html

4. The Thermistor PN 2601683 (not sure about part number as many conflicts with cross ref)

5. The actual compressor (1/5 hp) PN 2603850 or Type TWB1374MK

Any of the above can cause your problem. Check the compressor. If it is VERY hot to the touch unplug the unit for 30 minutes and then plug it in again.
If the compressor is cold the only thing you can do is start troubleshooting with the units wiring diagram and a meter.

I wish I could say _______ is causing your problem. Without testing components and knowing they are bad I can not say order _____ part. If your good with a meter and can locate the units tech sheet / wiring diagram you can isolate the failed part. Otherwise all I can say is what can cause your symptom as listed above.

Kelly
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Also the model # is MVI2569VEM....(not a 1 but an I) if you replace the 1 with an I you will get the manual at maytag.com
Here is a link.
http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/User%20Instructions%20-%2012828186A.pdf
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We just purchased a ge profile refrigerator today, and cannot get it off of demo mode

You have to go into the Diagnostic mode to see if you can reset this issue or if the main board in back is bad. Here's how to do it:

To enter Self Diagnostic mode, both temperature control panel displays must be illuminated. A display can be illuminated by pressing an adjacent temperature adjustment button. When both displays are illuminated, set the freezer and refrigerator temperature settings to 5. Simultaneously press and hold all 4 temperature adjustment buttons for approximately 3 seconds. A flashing 0 in the refrigerator and freezer displays will indicate that the refrigerator is in Self Diagnostic mode.

For temperature control panels with single-digit displays, the COLDER temperature adjustment button will increment the numbers up and the WARMER temperature adjustment button will increment the numbers down. Use the freezer temperature adjustment buttons to enter the test code number in the freezer display. Use the refrigerator temperature adjustment buttons to enter the test code number in the refrigerator display. When a test code has been entered, the displays will flash to confirm the test. Press the HOLD button for 3 seconds to begin the test.

For temperature control panels with 3-digit displays, the COLDER temperature adjustment button will increment the numbers down and the WARMER temperature adjustment button will increment the numbers up. Use the freezer temperature adjustment buttons to enter the test code number in the freezer display. Use the refrigerator temperature adjustment buttons to enter the test code number in the refrigerator display. When a test code has been entered, the displays will flash to confirm the test code. Press any button other than a temperature adjust button to begin the test.

First, run the control and thermistor test:

Control and Sensor System Self-Test (0 7)
This test checks all five thermistors located throughout the unit. Once the test is initiated, the test code (0 7) will stop flashing and the thermistor test results will appear on the freezer display in the test order listed below. The thermistor test sequence number will not be shown on the display. If the unit is not equipped with the Quick Chill option, the third thermistor (quick chill) will display a 0 and 3 audible beeps will sound at the temperature control panel. This is not a failure if the unit is not equipped with the Quick Chill option.

Thermistor test results:
• P = Pass
• 0 = Failed
• S = Short to 5 VDC
• B = Bad amplifier

When testing has been completed, do the following :
• Enter code 1 5 to completely reset the system. Then press the Hold button (or any other button than a temperature button) to accept the code.

When you're done, unplug the refrigerator for 10 seconds and plug it in....if it does not run, the board is bad.
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no more than likely that your thermostat is faulty all f/freezers have 2 stats 1 to keep fridge cool and 1 to the freezer u will need to replace the 1 in the fridge m8
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