Just put new spark plugs and wires,rotor+cap,new coil,new ignition control module

If your D16Y8 engine was running and then stopped after you took off the spark plug wires and distributor cap, there could be a few possible causes for the engine not starting now.

• The timing may have been disturbed when you removed the distributor cap and wires, causing the engine to be out of timing. You should check the timing and make sure it's set correctly.
• The distributor rotor or cap may be damaged or worn, preventing spark from reaching the spark plugs. Replace the rotor and cap if necessary.
• The ignition module or coil may be faulty and not providing spark to the spark plugs. Check the ignition module and coil for any signs of damage or wear.
• The crankshaft position sensor (CKP) may be faulty and not providing the proper signal to the engine control module (ECM), preventing the engine from starting. Check the CKP sensor and wiring for any signs of damage or wear.
• The engine control module (ECM) may be damaged and not providing the proper signals to the ignition and fuel systems, preventing the engine from starting. In this case, the engine control module needs to be replaced.

It's also worth to mention that the tachometer gauge is not related to the engine starting, it's more of an indicator of the engine RPM, if the engine is not starting the tachometer won't work, so don't worry about it.
I recommend that you have a professional mechanic check your vehicle to determine the exact cause of the problem and make any necessary repairs.

When troubleshooting an ignition "no-spark" issue, it's helpful to first understand how the system works in sequence. The process starts with the crankshaft position (CKP) sensor detecting engine rotation and cylinder position. The CKP signal is interpreted by the powertrain control module (PCM) which then sends a signal to the ignition control module (ICM). The ICM then drives the ignition coil which is when the high voltage (for spark) is created. From there, the high voltage goes through the ignition coil wire to the center of the distributor cap. Here, the spring-loaded button of the cap touches the center of the spinning rotor and transfers the voltage. The high voltage then jumps from the rotor to whichever pole the rotor is pointed towards at the outer edge of the cap; let's say it's cylinder #1. High voltage then travels through the cylinder #1 ignition wire to the cylinder #1 spark plug where it sparks and ignites the cylinder's air/fuel mixture. Considering these things, if there is no spark from any of the cylinder-specific ignition wires, the issue must be further upstream. Start by unplugging the ignition coil wire where it attaches to the distributor and check for spark; if present, the issue is with the distributor cap or rotor. If not present, the issue is further upstream. ICM and ignition coils are both pretty common failures, but further in-depth diagnosis would need to be performed in order to determine if there is a circuit failure, sensor failure, module failure, or other component failure. You can read more here: https://www.yourmechanic.com/article/how-to-replace-a-distributor-rotor-and-cap-by-tim-charlet

Plug , coil or injector or in the pcm

Pull off a spark plug wire and ground it over the engine. Crank the engine over and see if there is any spark from the wire. Sounds as if there is no spark to light the fuel you are putting in the carb. If no spark, possible ignition module/pick up coil inside the distributor/defective distributor cap/rotor/ignition coil/ wiring

1. The ignition system on your 5.0L uses a distributor type system and will include the following components:
   1. Ignition control module (ICM). Depending on the year of your specific Ford, it'll have a inner-fender mounted ignition control module or a distributor mounted ignition control module. hot sure which you have.
   2. Ignition coil. you replaced it.
   3. PIP (Profile Ignition Pickup) sensor. This is Ford's name for the crank sensor and is mounted inside the distributor. The most common name for this component is the pick up coil.
   4. Distributor cap and rotor. you replaced
   5. Spark plug wires. you replaced.
2. The thing to keep in mind about the ignition system is that all engine cylinders must get spark and the one thing that will stop the ignition system from creating spark on a wholesale scale is a BAD crank sensor.Have you pulled a plug then using some insulated pliers grounded it to the vehicle and turned it over to see if you have spark, that'll tell you alot.takes two people of course.Best of luck and hope this helps.

What size engine?

Check the starter solenoid, or igintion switch

Is there any spark?

To check:

Pull a spark plug wire out, put it on one of the old spark plugs, make sure the spark plug is touching metal (needs to be grounded) and have someone turn the engine over, to see if there is a spark.

If there is no spark, the most likely problem is the ignition control module.

Other things to check:

cap/rotor
coil

Hope this helps

Here are a couple of things that could be causing your problem. 1. Bad ignition coil or ignition module 2. Clogged fuel filter 3. Clogged air filter 4. Clogged fuel injectors 5. Bad spark plugs, wires, distributor cap and /or rotor. 6. Broken timing chain/belt. Here are a few things you can try to verify that you have a good spark. 1. Remove the distributor cap and crank the car. If the rotor turned you're ok. If it doesn't turn then that's you're problem and you will probably need to change a timing belt/chain. 2. Check the spark from the ignition coil by pulling the coil wire from the center of the distributor. Use an alligator clip to attach a short wire to the coil wire contact. Bare the other end of this short wire and set it up so it's sitting very close to the engine block. Turn off the lights and try to start the car. You should see a spark jump from this wire to the block. If you don't see a spark it's likely your ignition module or ignition coil is bad. 3. If you have a spark maybe it's not getting to the plugs. You may need to replace the distributor cap and rotor. You can test if the plugs are sparking by pulling one, re-attaching the spark plug wire and seeing if you get a spark when you try to start the engine in the dark. Please note, the metal threads of the spark plug need to be shorted to the engine block to complete the circuit during this test.

I had the same problem with my 85 cj7 this week, I relpaced the ignition control module, plugs, wires, cap, rotor and the the coil; still had no fire to plugs. the problem turned out to be my distributor, replaced it today and she fired right up. Most likely it was the pick up module in the distributor that went bad.