Question about Shimano Cycling

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Rear derailleur will not stay in new gear. keeps defaulting back to smallest sprocket. I've lubed everything in sight. I've recently had the cable disconnected from the derailleur, lubed it, then crimped it back down. When I shift, the derailleur moves, but does not ''stick'' in the new gear.

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  • daniel_sparl Jul 11, 2009

    OK, it is a shimano 400LX.

    The cable was loosened so that the derailleur would sit in "home" position, then clamped at that spot.

    The gear switcher has two controls. One is supposed to shift up, the other releases back down. When I thumb the switcher up, the derailleur moves properly, but does not stay in place, it returns. even when I adjust the derailleur to the second sprocket, the "down" gear selctor does nothing.

    I have also tightnened the thumb "screw" where the cable enters the gear switcher "box". I noticed that as I tightened it, the cable became looser, whereas when I loosen it the cable becomes tighter. Surprise. Anyway, tight or loose, this part does not seem to affect the performance of the derailleur as I had expected it to.

    Also, I have worked with the two screws on the derailleur itself and have found no setting of those which will affect the main problem of the gear not "sticking" into place.

  • daniel_sparl Jul 11, 2009

    OK, it is a shimano 400LX.

    The cable was loosened so that the derailleur would sit in "home" position, then clamped at that spot.

    The gear switcher has two controls. One is supposed to shift up, the other releases back down. When I thumb the switcher up, the derailleur moves properly, but does not stay in place, it returns. even when I adjust the derailleur to the second sprocket, the "down" gear selctor does nothing.

    I have also tightnened the thumb "screw" where the cable enters the gear switcher "box". I noticed that as I tightened it, the cable became looser, whereas when I loosen it the cable becomes tighter. Surprise. Anyway, tight or loose, this part does not seem to affect the performance of the derailleur as I had expected it to.

    Also, I have worked with the two screws on the derailleur itself and have found no setting of those which will affect the main problem of the gear not "sticking" into place.

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  • 38 Answers

What kind of gear switcher do you have?
It sounds like the problem might be there...
That should be the part that keeps your chain in the proper gear..
Does the Switch stay in place or does it go back?
if it does....
Is the cable properly tightened to the raer derailleur?
If so is the cable crimped to loose so that there is to much **** in the cable?

Posted on Jul 11, 2009

  • Alie Jul 11, 2009

    The two screws on teh derialleur itself are only to adjust the maximum outer position and the maximum inner position.

    The 400LX is from the Shimano Deore line i think...

    From what i here you need a new control switch to keep the gear in place.

    I gather this from the fact that you say when you shift up if goes, but does not stay in place and whn you then want to switch down it does not do anything (the switch)



    I dont think that you can repair the switch itself,

    and from what i read you have done everything in the correct way.

  • Alie Jul 11, 2009

    sorry about the typo's just noticed them and i can't find a edit button.

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Hello,

Have a helper lift the rear wheel of the bicycle slightly off the ground.

2
Kneel beside the bike and turn the pedals slowly by hand. Using the shift lever, adjust the front derailleur so that it rests at about the midpoint of its movement range.

3
If the initial problem is that the chain won't shift onto the largest rear gear, locate the two small side-by-side adjustment screws on the rear derailleur. Turn the left (or upper) adjustment screw counterclockwise a quarter turn with a small Phillips screwdriver. If the initial problem is that the chain won't shift onto the smallest rear gear, skip to step 6.

4
Continue turning the pedals and shift through all the rear gears. If the chain will still not go onto the largest rear gear, shift the chain back down to the smallest rear gear. Turn the right (or lower) adjustment screw clockwise as far as possible before the chain begins to click or rattle.

5
Shift through the gears again to test. If necessary, turn the left (or upper) screw counterclockwise another quarter turn.

6
If the initial problem is that the chain won't shift onto the smallest rear gear, begin by turning the right (or lower) adjustment screw counterclockwise a quarter turn. Shift through the gears to test.

7
If the chain still won't go onto the smallest rear gear, shift the chain to the largest rear gear. Turn the left (or upper) adjustment screw clockwise as far as possible before the chain begins to click or rattle. Shift through all the gears to test.

8
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If otherwise,
Tighten the high gear screw, the one that hits a cam when you shift to the smallest sprocket, until you can no longer shift into high gear. Put the shifter in high gear position and while turning the pedals, unscrew the high gear screw until the system engages high gear again. Shift between high gear and the second smallest several times, backing the screw out a little more, just until the derailleur shifts smoothly.

2. Tighten the low gear screw until you no longer get first gear. Repeat the process for this low gear limit - back the screw out just until the bike shifts smoothly from the second largest to the largest sprocket.

3. If you cannot engage high or low gear, or if the above technique does not work for high or low gear, the cable may be improperly adjusted.
Shift into high gear and push the shifter all the way to the end of its travel. Loosen the cable inner wire anchor bolt. That's the bolt with a hole through which the derailleur control wire is clamped. Pull the slack out of the wire, and retighten the anchor bolt.

If your bike has index shifting, you'll find an adjusting barrel either at the derailleur or the shifter. The adjusting barrel is a hollow screw at which the cable outer housing stops, but which the inner wire continues through. Fine adjust the cable tension by turning the adjusting barrel until the clicks on the shifter correspond with proper shifting at the derailleur.

If your bicycle does not engage high gear, or is slow to engage high gear, even though properly adjusted, the cable is probably the culprit. Replace the sticky or rusted cable, and the problem will usually go away.

If you have done everything right, but the bicycle does not shift reliably, the most common reason is that the chain and freewheel are too worn to work properly. If you replace one, you must replace both. A new chain on an old freewheel or visa versa usually skips, and the new part wears out very quickly.

Another possibility is a bent derailleur. The guide pulleys, those little wheels that take up the chain slack, must pivot on the same plane as the freewheel sprockets. Derailleurs become bent when the bike falls over on the right-hand side. Whenever you set a bicycle down, or put it in a car, set it on its left side to protect the derailleur. You can sometimes straighten out a bent derailleur by simply bending it back and readjusting the limit screws.


Hoping this will help to solve the problem, do take care....

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Setting the low-gear (largest cog) limiting screw.



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Fine adjustment of tension in the derailleur cable.





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Checking the position of the chain on the cogs.





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1 Answer

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