Unit will not read the correct depth. Have used it a hand full of times and worked perfectly at first.

Check for a loose connection or corrosion at the transducer and the unit. Less likely, but bent or broken pin on the connector at the back of the unit. It always works until it doesn't, so that information is of no use.

Hey Les, Since you have replace both the unit and transducer, you have eliminated/diagnosed most of your problem.. Its in the wiring... sometime when I am in full GPS mode I get erroneous depth readings..?? Have you tried a different GPS module (the "puck")?

https://www.lowrance.com/Root/Lowrance-Documents/US/ELITE-5-7_HDI_OM_EN_988-10647-001_w.pdf

You need to set the transducer lower. When at speed, the hull of the ship raises up out of the water and hence your transducer is probably not deep enough at these times to give a proper reading.

Thanks for responding..I am going to try a lake test tommorow with a troubleshooting tip read on bass boat central...Thanks

yes it could be you need to check the depth of your tank and then measure the sending unit to see if is going to the bottom it should be about a 1/4 inch from the bottom if that is good change the gauge

I had the same problem and got the transducer changed. It now works perfectly. That could be the problem you are having... bad transducer.

Hi Chris, Did you get a fix for this issue? My Dad's Eagle Cuda 128 is also having the same problem - constant reading of 60ft. I'd love to hear if you have a solution. Many thanks,

I installed my Navman 4150 depth finder along with the Navman GPS unit when I purchased my Bayliner Trophy 20Ft. Offshore model. Everything was ok for one year and it has been downhill since then. Losing signal, unbelievable high depth ranges, blank periods, etc.. I now can't even get a reading tieded up at the dock. I am now giving up and shoping for a quality unit.. Cape Disappointment.........

Scuba gauges give a diver three very important pieces of information: 1. Time 2. Depth 3. Air Consumption This information enables a diver to stay within safe time and depth limits and avoid running out of air. There are many different devices on the market to help with this, from simple gauges to complex digital consoles. Time If a diver is not using a dive computer to monitor their nitrogen, they dive according to approved dive tables. To use dive tables properly, a diver needs to track their downtime. This can be done with a good dive watch. Two things make a good dive watch: water resistance and a rotating bezel. 1. Water Resistance. Good dive watches are rated to a depth in meters or feet (e.g. 200 feet) or a pressure rating in atmospheres (e.g. 4atm). Even though most divers probably won’t dive below 130 feet (the recreational dive limit), a good dive watch should be rated to 200 feet. Note: There is a difference between “water resistance” and “waterproof”. A “waterproof” watch is what you would wear in the shower, but would probably start leaking at 15-20 feet. 2. Rotating Bezel. A bezel is an adjustable ring on the face of the dive watch with a pointer indicator. At the beginning of a dive, the pointer on the bezel is aligned with the minute hand where it stays though out the dive. At the end of the dive, you compare the difference between the bezel and the minute hand to find out the length of the dive. The bezel should only move “counterclockwise”. It is possible to accidently move the bezel during a dive. Because of this, watchmakers make sure any accidental movement will turn the time in a conservative direction, making the dive longer rather than shorter. Depth Another important part of scuba gauges is a depth gauge. A depth gauge enables a diver to keep track of their depth even if they cannot see the water’s surface. Gauges can be either an analog (needle-and-dial) device or a digital device. Both work in the same way. They measure the surrounding water pressure and convert this into an accurate reading of your depth. Another feature of a good depth gauge is a maximum depth indicator. This tells a diver their maximum during a dive and must be reset after each dive. Air Consumption Another equally important part of scuba gauges is a submersible pressure gauge (SPG). This is connected to the first stage with a high-pressure hose and measures the pressure of the air in the tank. The SPG is much like the gas gauge on a car. At the beginning of a dive, a diver starts with a full tank. This should be about 3000 psi or 200 bars. As the diver breathes during the dive, the gauge will move slowly downwards. This allows the diver to have enough air left in the tank to: 1. Make a slow, safe ascent 2. Make any necessary decompression stops 3. Inflate their BCD once at the surface 4. Breath from the regulator if the surface conditions are rough A submersible pressure gauge also allows a diver to stop diving with air still in the tank. This keeps contaminants from entering the tank due to no air pressure. Wrist Depth Gauge Scuba gauges come in two basic styles. Stand alone gauges or gauge consoles. Stand alone gauges such as a wrist mounted depth gauge or a submersible pressure gauge attached to the first stage of a regulator are great backups when using digital gauges. Gauge consoles allow divers to have all their gauges in one place. Although less easy to read, analog gauges sometimes give slightly more accurate readings than digital gauges, particularly at shallow depth. Submersible Pressure Gauge Choosing Scuba Gauges When choosing scuba gauges, remember to look for: 1. Easy-to-read numbers 2. Luminescent dial or back lighting options 3. Rotating/swivel mounting 4. Easy disassembly for cleaning or replacing parts 5. Good warranty