6 light 2 spot light low volt moon Raysystem trouble making a connection on 4They clip onto line fine wont stay lit Is there a way to clip the lights to the low voltage line better so they stay lit.

Does it stay lit on all the injectors or just one? If it is all then it sounds as if the computer has an internal problem. Will the computer communicate with a scan tool? If it doesn't you have a sensor shorted and it is shutting the computer down on the 5 volt system.

Brother Mark, changing the battery with a new one being done won't make the light go out, as you noticed. Light is still on so you changed the alternator. Good, but the battery light is STILL on. This only means that the charging circuit from the alternator is not working in the voltage regulator or the wiring is not connected properly to the alternator/regulator. A new battery will show over 13 to 13.5 volts not connected. An old battery will still show 12 volts and still be weak or bad. After connected and engine running, the system will show at least 14 volts because alternator/regulator is working properly, using a voltmeter/load tester connected to the battery. If after replacing the battery and alternator it is still reading 12 to 13.5 volts, it is not working and the light will stay lit on the dash. You may have purchased a faulty alternator if the system tests out this way. Have your system checked with a volt meter or load tester bit be sure all the connections are proper and clean.

If you had the proper voltage regulator
control the light would be out

Need to have that checked out before
you ruin the new battery or alternator

littlepyrodu, I would first back probe the wires going to the light bulb socket first to see if you are getting voltage to the socket, Sockets are prone to sometimes get to hot and resulting in the contact (inside of socket) to recess into the plastic housing causing it not to have contact with the bulb contacts. If you do not know how to back probe, you need a volt meter, cheapy will do just fine, and two small alligator clips (if the leads that come with the meter does not have them(some do) and two straight pins. First crimp the alligator clips on the free ends of the lead wires of the meter, set the meter for a 12 volt range (make sure your above 12 volt setting, less will fry your meter, take the two straight pins and stick them in the two wires going to the socket in question, space them apart a few inches so there is no chance in shorting out the two wires, clip on the alligator clips to the pins, turn on lights, if the meter swings to the left, reverse the alligator clips, wrong polarity, now you should have12 volts showing on your volt meter, if not, you do have a broken wire in the harness, that is as you stated " Fuse Is Fine". You also stated that the wire may have been cut,, you shouldn't need a diagram / schematic for that, the opposing color coded wire should be right there, either at the socket end or at the business end (under dash). Note: Look to see if there is a worn spot in the carpet, drivers side right at the side kick panel, there is a wiring harness under the carpet there that goes along the door threshold to various components in the car. My wife had a habit of resting her foot there all of the time while driving and wore a spot there and it exposed the wires located there, reason I know they are there. And is also where I connected wires from a remote starter for the door locks and trunk release and parking lights... If there is a worn through spot there or not, I would at least check there to see if a wire has been worn into or shorted out, all you have to do is pull the carpet out from under the driver side kick panel, enough to see the wires, then just tuck it back under the kick panel when done. Hope this helps you and anyone else with this issue.

Many times vehicles have a coolant sensor mounted on the radiator that goes bad allowing the low coolant light to stay lit changing this sensor usually takes care of the light also make sure the wires running to the sensor are not shorted or broke.

get a12 volt test light remove negitive cable from battery attach clip on test light to negitive cable removed from battery. touch other end of test light to negitive side of battery if light is on something in car is pulling power if light is off everything is turned off you can test this if light is off by turning on the headlights the test light should stay lit until you turn off headlight switch. If light is on when fistr connecting to battery turn every thing off in car or disconnect anything includeing trunk or under hood lights one at a time until test light is no longer lit. if this is not the problem load test battery.

Obtain a 12 volt test light, ground the clip on the negative battery post, and check for light at the large terminal on the starter solenoid. If lit, have someone try the key--if the light goes out, place the light on the battery positive post and try the starter again. If it goes out again, either the battery needs to be charged, or it is defective. If the light stays lit in the first test, then place the light on the starter motor terminal and retry the key (do you hear a fairly loud click?). If nothing but the click, replace the solenoid itself. If no click at all, test the small terminal on the solenoid and try the key. If you get light, replace the solenoid. If no light, check for blown fuses. If ok, then suspect a bad ignition switch. Hope some of this helps!

reset the computer, if no change, replace the coolant sensor, but after reset it should work

You can reset the light by disconnecting the negative battery cable for 10min but if it returns, have the charging system checked. A battery light could be an indication of a loose/bad connection (corrosion on calbes/terminals) or an alternator problem. Since you've ruled out a serpentine belt issue (unless is slick/worn and not grabbling) I'm sure it's one of the above. Best of luck with your problem.
Greg

How did you connect the test light. Clip to frame or clip to one terminal and pointer to other terminal. If you hooked the clip to frame and the pointer to a terminal and it lit, it means that you have power there but not necessarily ground, because your test light provided the ground. What I would do is first of all not use a test light but use a multimeter instead, you can get relatively cheap one (10-30 dollars). The problem is that a test light only indicates that voltage is available not how much voltage is available, a couple of volts will light the bulb in the test light (you want to see battery volts). It's hard to tell the difference between a half lit bulb or a full lit bulb depending on the light from the sun/garage. Use a multimeter and check the clips on both sides of the car. Also check all fuses whether they indicate lights or not. If you put one lead of the multimeter to frame and the other to a terminal and have battery volts the positive side of the circuit is good. Put the other multimeter lead on the other terminal if you don't have battery volts, you have an open ground. When checking volts make sure the brake pedal is depressed. Good luck