Removed and repaired two metal hydraulic lines then when I fired it up again the hydraulics only move in one direction. both on the arms and the bucket. thank You in advance

steering rack or gear . 2X2 - 4X4 engine . Depends on steering system .
When you turn the steering wheel, the steering gear rotates the pitman arm which forces the relay rod to one side. The tie rods connect to the relay rod with the ball studs. The tie rods transfer the steering force to the wheels. Use the tie rods in toe adjustments. The tie rods are adjustable. The pitman arm support the relay rod. The idler arm pivots on a support attached to the frame rail and the ball stud attaches to the relay rod.
The 2 tie rod are threaded into the tube and secured with jam nuts. Right and left hand threads are used in order to permit the adjustment of toe.

Binding linkage , steering gear worn etc....

Power Steering System Description and Operation (w/o Electro-Hydraulic Steering)
The hydraulic power steering pump is a constant displacement vane-type pump that provides hydraulic pressure and flow for the power steering gear. The hydraulic power steering pumps are either belt-driven or direct-drive, cam-driven.
The power steering fluid reservoir holds the power steering fluid and may be integral with the power steering pump or remotely located. The following locations are typical locations for the remote reservoir:
• Mounted to the front of the dash panel
• Mounted to the inner fender
• Mounted to a bracket on the engine
The 2 basic types of power steering gears are listed below:
• A recirculating ball system
• A rack and pinion system
In the recirculating ball system, a worm gear converts steering wheel movement to movement of a sector shaft. A pitman arm attached to the bottom of the sector shaft actually moves one tie rod and an intermediate rod move the other tie rod.
In the rack and pinion system, the rack and the pinion are the 2 components that convert steering wheel rotation to lateral movement. The steering shaft is attached to the pinion in the steering gear. The pinion rotates with the steering wheel. Gear teeth on the pinion mesh with the gear teeth on the rack. The rotating pinion moves the rack from side to side. The lateral action of the rack pushes and pulls the tie rods in order to change the direction of the vehicle's front wheels.
The power steering pressure hose connects the power steering pump union fitting to the power steering gear and allows pressurized power steering fluid to flow from the pump to the gear.
The power steering return hose returns fluid from the power steering gear back to the power steering fluid reservoir. The power steering return line may contain an integral fin-type or line-type power steering fluid cooler.
In a typical power steering system, a pump generates hydraulic pressure, causing fluid to flow, via the pressure hose, to the steering gear valve assembly. The steering gear valve assembly regulates the incoming fluid to the right and left chambers in order to assist in right and left turns.
Turning the steering wheel activates the valve assembly, which applies greater fluid pressure and flow to 1 side of the steering gear piston, and lower pressure and flow to the other side of the piston. The pressure assists the movement of the gear piston. Tie rods transfer this force to the front wheels, which turn the vehicle right or left.


Your best bet , take it to a qualified repair shop.

did you read the FSM book first, or alldata.com pages on how to bleed your ABS system?, some cars require a scanner that can cycle the modulator to bleed out air.
97 626, ill look.
did you remove any parts , up stream of the modulator?
(called the hydraulic unit by mazda)
is the ABS lamp glowing?

here is page on HU swap. (would be worst case)
seems its not special bleeding type. "says "in the usual manor"

1. If necessary, remove the fuel filter and igniter mounting nuts and move them out of the way.
2. Remove the charcoal canister from the vehicle and if the vehicle is equipped with cruise control, remove the cruise control actuator.
3. Disconnect the brake lines from the hydraulic unit. Correct reassembly is critical. Label or identify the lines before removal. Plug each line immediately after removal.
4. Disconnect the electrical harness connectors to the hydraulic unit.
5. Remove the 2 nuts holding the hydraulic unit. Remove the unit upwards.

0.) disconnect battery first.
The hydraulic unit is heavy; use care when removing it. The unit must remain in the upright position at all times and be protected from impact and shock.

1. Set the unit upright supported by blocks on the workbench. The hydraulic unit must not be tilted or turned upside down. No component of the hydraulic unit should be loosened or disassembled.
2. The bracket assemblies may be removed if desired.

To install:

1. Install the brackets if removed.
2. Install the hydraulic unit into the vehicle, keeping it upright at all times.
3. Install the retaining nuts and tighten.
4. Connect the electrical connectors.
5. Connect each brake line to the proper port and double check the placement. Tighten each line to 113-190 inch lbs. (12.9-21.5 Nm).
6. Fill the reservoir to the MAX line with brake fluid.
7. Bleed the master cylinder, then bleed the brake lines.
8. If removed, install the cruise control actuator and the charcoal canister.

find the clutch throw out arm and see if there is a cylinder there or a cable end there. Or look at the fire wall at the clutch pedal and see if you have a hydraulic cylinder there or a cable coming out.

924 has cable operated clutch. When the cable on mine broke pedal went straight to the floor, hydraulic usually much slower to get to floor. Cable is an easy replacement. bleeding hydraulic usually done from nipple on slave cylinder (near release arm on clutch housing.

You have to remve the intake ,valve covers,then loosen the rocker arms, remove the push rods, then reve the retainers for the lifter and then you can pull the lifter out . if you have never worked on an engine before i would recomend you not try to perform this repair.

Hi...To response to your question about your clutch problem....Open Your Hood, on the driver side inside close to the transmission, look for broken cable clutch ...am not sure it it hydrolic system or just metal cable.. Look under if the cable is broken from the tip of the arm or at the base of the transmission itself But again if it hydraulic you will see a metallic oil line instead.. good luck.

YOU HAVE TO REMOVE VALVE COVERS LOOSEN REMOVE ROCKER ARMS ASSEMBLY KEEP ROCKER ARM ASSEMBLY IN ORDER SO THEY GO BACK IN THE ORIGINAL POSITION.YOU HAVE TO REMOVE INTAKE MANIFOLD ALSO.YOU NEED A REPAIR MANUAL FOR TORQUE SEQUENCE ON THE INTAKE MANIFOLD AND ROCKER ARMS TORQUE.

i dont think you are supposed to remove it. they come with a hose master and slave cyl all put together.
i did get one aprt once and i think there was a roll pin i pulled out to do it

you may have a faulty clutch master cylinder or faulty clutch slave cylinder- leaking clutch fluid. most of the time both are replaced at the same time which should be recomended by your mechanic, the bolts to the master cylinder are very hard to get to and require the right tool.
you should be able to move car forward by selecting 1st then cranking engine till it starts, gear changes while driving are hard but not impossible. i recommend a tow truck to a local repairer.

In order to give you a solution to your problem, I need to explain a little bit about the valve train in your engine, the engine itself, and how it works.

1.You have an Internal Combustion engine. It is a Four Stroke engine. The engine has a Cylinder Block with cylinders inside. There is a piston for each cylinder which goes up, and down. The piston/s are connected to a crankshaft. The crankshaft turns the transmission, which in turn turns the driveshaft, to the rear differential. The rear differential has axles, which the rear wheels are bolted to. The four strokes are , Intake Stroke, Compression Stroke, Combustion Stroke, and Exhaust Stroke.

The piston goes down the cylinder drawing the fuel/air mixture in. (Intake Stroke) The Intake valve opens. The piston comes back up the cylinder, and Compresses the fuel/air mixture. (Compression Stroke) Both the Intake and Exhaust valve are closed. The spark plug fires igniting the fuel/air mixture, and shoves the piston down. (Combustion Stroke) Finally the Exhaust valve opens, and expels the burnt gases. (Exhaust Stroke)
This page on Wikipedia.org, may help explain the process. The third 'photo' down on the right is an animation showing the process.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Internal_combustion_engine
The animation shows an engine with an Overhead Camshaft. Your camshaft is located in the Cylinder Block, and not in the Cylinder Head, as shown.

2.Your Camshaft is a shaft with egg shaped lobes on it. As the tip of the egg shape comes to the top, it pushes up on a Hydraulic Lifter. This lifter in turn pushes up on a Pushrod, which pushes up on a Rocker Arm. The Rocker Arm in turn pushes down on either the Intake Valve, or the Exhaust Valve, opening them.

A Rocker Arm is shaped a lot like a See-saw. Just like the one's at a child's playground. As one side goes up, the other side comes down. The Pushrod pushes up on one side of the Rocker Arm, and the other side of the Rocker Arm pushes down on the valve, opening it.

A Hydraulic Lifter is a small cylinder that has a piston in it. Oil goes through a tiny hole in the side of the lifter, and this keeps the piston in a certain position. (That's why this lifter is named 'Hydraulic', because it uses oil inside) The Pushrod rests on this piston. The hydraulic action of the Hydraulic Lifter, keeps slack out of the valve train. The pushrod to rocker arm distance, and the rocker arm to valve distance.

What you are hearing, is a clicking sound from clearance being created, in-between the pushrod to rocker arm, and/or rocker arm to valve stem. A metal to metal clicking sound.

Solution? Depends on how mechanically inclined you are, or you may want to refer this job to an auto repair shop. The valve cover needs to be removed, and the nut on each rocker arm needs to be adjusted. Adjusting the nut down, (Clockwise), pushes the rocker arm down on the rocker arm stud, a little. This removes the slack, and makes things nice, and quiet again. Your engine will also run better, and you'll get better gas mileage.

DON'T do this, or have it down, and eventually the slack that is in there will increase. This will break parts! There IS a technique in doing this. If you know of someone who is good at adjusting valves, they can do it. They MUST be good however. If you adjust the Rocker Arm Nut too far down, you will lose power, and the exhaust valve face will burn. Not far enough down, and you get the clicking sound you hear now. About 1/4 turn down, to 1/2 turn down, should do it.