Costly I've heard clean the connecters to check relays ,fuses to check connections reset switch on end of brake pedal check this check that

Check and clean the brake switch, look near the top of the brake pedal arm you will see a switch remove it, clean it, replace it. If issues are still there check your wiring for good connections, recheck fuses in car and under the hood.

Have you tried checking the brake _switch_ connected to the back of the brake pedal? All the way up the top of the brake pedal arm is the brake switch. They do go bad. They also can get loose and not make contact. // If you have ruled out the brake switch, it is possible the brake ''relay'' is bad, and therefore this has nothing to do with a fuse. This may or may not be a ''DIY'' issue depending on where the relay is located. Brakes are no longer _only_ connected to the brake pedal with a fuse in between. (Because that is far too simple and easy for our modern day ''Jetson-mobiles''). Nowadays there is also a relay in the circuit, if not _also_ the car's computer. You may need more than an ''owners manual'' to find such a relay. I suppose you could try Googling ''Brake Relay location'' (along with your year, make, and model). // Best of luck... -Gregg

Check brake pedal switch to be sure it has the wires connected. Test brake pedal switch.

Most likely this is a brake light switch issue. Replace switch.

If your emergency flashers don't work, all flasher bulbs are fine, but flashing too fast, then check and replace Hazard light switch.

COMMON CAUSES OF NO-CRANK NO-START

Low battery (Check battery voltage, recharge if low, or jump start with another vehicle or battery charger).
Loose or corroded battery cables (Inspect, clean and tighten BOTH ends of BOTH battery cables).
Bad starter relay wiring connections or ground connection (Inspect, clean, tighten wiring connections).
Bad starter relay/solenoid (Check for voltage at relay, if relay has voltage but there is no "click" when key is turned to start, replace relay).
Bad starter (Jump battery voltage direct to starter to see if it spins, or remove starter and have it bench tested at auto parts store).
Damaged starter drive or teeth on flywheel (Remove starter and inspect drive gear and flywheel teeth, replace damaged parts if necessary).
Bad ignition switch (Check to see if voltage reaches starter relay/solenoid when turn to start. If not, check for open P/N switch and brake or clutch pedal switch. Replace ignition switch if defective).
Open P/N safety switch, or open Brake Pedal Safety Switch (automatic transmission) or open Clutch Pedal Switch (manual transmission). Bypass switch with jumper wire to see if engine cranks, or use test light or voltmeter to check for voltage passing through switch when ignition is turned to start.
Engine seized due to bearing failure or internal damage (Use socket and long handle to see if engine can be turned by hand, if not engine is locked up).
Engine hydrolocked due to coolant leak from leaky head gasket (Use socket and wrench to see if engine rotates, remove spark plugs and see if coolant comes out or engine can not be cranked with plugs out).

When you turn the ignition key to start your car, voltage from the battery flows through the ignition switch to the Park/Neutral safety switch and/or brake pedal or clutch pedal safety switch (you have to push the pedal down before the circuit will complete) to the starter relay or solenoid. When the relay or solenoid is energized by voltage from the ignition switch circuit, it closes a contact that routes more power from the battery directly to the starter to crank the engine. The starter motor spins, pushes the starter drive gear to engage the flywheel and cranks the engine.

Low battery (Check battery voltage, recharge if low, or jump start with another vehicle or battery charger).
Loose or corroded battery cables (Inspect, clean and tighten BOTH ends of BOTH battery cables).
Bad starter relay wiring connections or ground connection (Inspect, clean, tighten wiring connections).
Bad starter relay/solenoid (Check for voltage at relay, if relay has voltage but there is no "click" when key is turned to start, replace relay).
Bad starter (Jump battery voltage direct to starter to see if it spins, or remove starter and have it bench tested at auto parts store).
Damaged starter drive or teeth on flywheel (Remove starter and inspect drive gear and flywheel teeth, replace damaged parts if necessary).
Bad ignition switch (Check to see if voltage reaches starter relay/solenoid when turn to start. If not, check for open P/N switch and brake or clutch pedal switch. Replace ignition switch if defective).
Open P/N safety switch, or open Brake Pedal Safety Switch (automatic transmission) or open Clutch Pedal Switch (manual transmission). Bypass switch with jumper wire to see if engine cranks, or use test light or voltmeter to check for voltage passing through switch when ignition is turned to start.
Engine seized due to bearing failure or internal damage (Use socket and long handle to see if engine can be turned by hand, if not engine is locked up).
Engine hydrolocked due to coolant leak from leaky head gasket (Use socket and wrench to see if engine rotates, remove spark plugs and see if coolant comes out or engine can not be cranked with plugs out).

Replace bulbs, clean sockets, check towing harness, check brake swich under brake pedal. fuses???
Vitally

WHICH GLOBES (BULBS)? I presume Brake Lights? The circuit is a DIRECT CONNECTION at the brake SWITCH (brake pedal arm). If all your fuses are good, then I'd begin to suspect the brake lamp switch is defective.

I just fixed my Cruise control problem. It didn't work at all, no light in the dash either. What had happened was, I had changed the brake booster some months back and when the brake pedal is disconnected from the booster shaft, it allows the pedal to raise too high. It will contact the cruise control disconnect switch to the left of the brake switch. To find the switch, look close and there is a "L" bracket welded on the brake pedal and the cruise switch contacts this bracket. Well this switch is a self-adjusting switch designed to be installed with the pedal at least an inch or so depressed. When the pedal is released it will contact the switch and push the shaft into the switch to the determined setting and it will lock into that position. I was able to pull the shaft out enough to make contact again and it self adjusted like it's supposed to and now the system works great! What made me go to this switch was by checking power at pin 6 (blk/yellow wire) at the cruise servo connection. This connection has 6 pins and the end pins (1 & 6) both have 12 volts. Mine had no power at pin six, which means the cruise deactivation switch is the problem. Older Expeditions had this switch on the brake master cylinder (recall for fires, etc), but 2003 and up has it on the brake pedal itself. Once I figured out where the switch actually was, it was easy to figure out. If you have done any work around teh brake pedal and disconnected it for any reason, you gotta check this out.

Hi,

On your brakelight concern, a few basic ideas:

• a blown fuse indicates a short somewhere;
• brakelights are activated by the switch coupled to the brake pedal;
• the brakelight bulb is integrated with the rear parklights.

Based on the above, some actions that you could take/explore:

• check the wiring of the foot/pedal switch, might be caught in between the spring coils;
• check the bulb sockets. look/clean/remove corrosion, rust, twisted wires, frayed ends;
• check harness going to rear.

On the ticking sound:

• probably a relay;
• check for loose ground or corroded/rusted ground points;
• double check the ground connection of the stereo;
• double check the battery's - terminal connection to engine and to chassis body;
• check/clean relay sockets normally located with the main fuses.
• in some worst case scenario and considering the age of the vehicle, a rehabilitation of the wiring system might be in order.
  

Hope this be of initial help/idea. Pls post back how things turned up or should you need additional information. Good luck and kind regards. Thank you for using FixYa.