When I first turn on the system it makes a terrible buzzing noise as if a component inside is not engaging. After a minute or so it goes away, but it does this everytime you start it. Is there a fix for this problem, or is the system no good now?
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It sounds like you are getting bleed through from another device...radio, cd player...etc. This is caused by improper grounding. Some where there is a wire not connected correctly or you need to ground the whole system.
Inspect the air inlet grille for debris. If the grille has debris, go to step 7. If the grille is clear, go to the next step.
Sit inside the vehicle, close the vehicle doors and windows, turn ON the ignition, with the engine OFF, and cycle the blower motor through all of the speeds in order to determine where and when the noise occurs. If there was noise during the blower operation, go to the next step. If there is no noise, go to step 10.
Inspect for excessive vibration at each blower motor speed by feeling the blower case. If there is vibration, go to step 6. If no vibration is present, go to the next step.
Listen to the blower motor at each blower speed. Is the blower motor making a squeaking or chirping noise? If yes, go to step 8. If no noise exists, go to step 10.
Remove the blower motor, and inspect the blower motor and impeller for deposits of foreign material. If there is debris, go to step 7. If there is no debris, go to the next step.
Inspect the blower motor for cracked blades, loose impeller retainer, or improper impeller alignment. If any of these conditions exist, go to step 8. If none of these exist, go to step 9.
Remove the foreign material. When complete, go to the next step.
Replace the blower motor. When the repair is complete, go to step 10.
Install the blower motor. When the repair is complete, go to step 10.
Operate the system in order to verify the repair. If the condition has been corrected, the repair is complete. If noise still exists, repeat the entire procedure.
Noise from A/C SystemNOTE: Noise from the A/C system may be heard as squealing, chirping or moaning noises, or as a vibration noise.
Start the engine and ensure the A/C system is ON. If any noise is heard when the system engages, go to the next step. If no noises are heard at this point, go to step 8.
With the engine OFF, inspect the drive belt for excessive wear. If the belt is excessively worn, go to step 17. If the belt is not worn, go to the next step.
Inspect the drive belt tension. If the tension is correct, go to the next step. If the tension is not correct, go to step 18.
Inspect the drive belt for excessive oil coverage. If the belt is covered with oil, go to step 16. If there is no oil present, go to the next step.
Start the engine, ensure the A/C system is ON, and visually inspect the compressor and the clutch. If the compressor appears locked up, go to step 23. If the compressor and clutch appear okay, go to the next step.
If the compressor clutch is slipping, go to step 22. If the clutch is not slipping, go to the next step.
Using a stethoscope, listen to the A/C compressor for any abnormal noise. If noise appears to be caused by the compressor, go to step 14. If the compressor is not the cause of the noise, go to step 9.
Does a moaning noise exist when the A/C clutch is engaged? If yes, go to the next step. If no, go the step 11.
Listen to the A/C compressor components and mounting for noise concerns using a stethoscope. Are any of these components loose, damaged or excessively worn? If yes, go to step 19. If no, go to the next step.
Idle the engine and engage the A/C compressor clutch. Using a stethoscope, move around the entire refrigerant plumbing system. Listening for any abnormal noises caused by a component of the A/C system touching another component. Are any of the A/C components grounding out and causing a vibration noise? If yes, go to step 21. If no, go to step 12.
Does a vibration or rattle noise exist when the A/C clutch is engaged? If yes, go to the next step. If no, go to step 13.
Does the noise stop when the A/C clutch is disengaged? If yes, go to step 14. If no, go to step 24.
Idle the engine in PARK with the A/C compressor clutch engaged. Using a stethoscope, move around the entire A/C system testing for any abnormal noises caused by a component. Do any of the A/C components cause an abnormal noise? If yes, go to step 20. If no, go to step 24.
Verify that the A/C system is properly charged. If it is properly charged, go to step 25. If not properly charged, go to the next step.
Recharge the A/C system to specification. Is the abnormal compressor noise still present? If yes, go to step 23. If no, go to step 25.
Repair the oil leak. When the repair is complete, go to step 25.
Replace the drive belt. When the repair is complete, go to step 25.
Replace the drive belt tensioner. When the repair is complete, go to step 25.
Repair or replace the A/C compressor mounting component. When the repair is complete, go to step 25.
Repair or replace the component that is causing the moaning concern as needed. When the repair is complete, go to step 25.
Correctly route or insulate the A/C component. When the repair is complete, go to step 25.
Replace the A/C compressor clutch. When the repair is complete, go to step 25.
Replace the A/C compressor. When the repair is complete, go to step 25.
The concern may be caused by an engine related component. If the concern is found and repaired, go to step 25.
Operate the system in order to verify the repair. If the system is okay, the repair is complete. If not, repeat the entire procedure.
Start the engine. Cycle through all blower speeds, A/C mode settings and temperature control settings. Determine the type of noise, whether it is a scraping, popping, ticking, clicking, chirping or groaning, or an air rush or whistle. Is a scrape or pop noise evident when selecting modes or temperature settings? If yes, go to step 5. If no, go to the next step.
Is a tick/click, chirping, groaning or scraping noise present, but decreases as blower motor speed is decreased? If yes, go to step 5. If no, go to the next step.
Is an air rush/whistle noise evident in all modes but not all temperature settings? If yes, go to step 5. If no, go to the next step.
Is an air rush/whistle noise evident only in defrost or floor mode? If yes, go to step 5. If no, examine for other sounds, repeat step 1.
Remove components as needed to access the HVAC module. When complete, go to the next step.
Inspect the airflow doors for proper operation and the ducts for obstructions or foreign materials. Were any of these conditions found? If yes, go to step 9. If no, go to the next step.
Inspect the mode and temperature doors and seals for warping or cracking. Are the doors in normal condition? If yes, go to step 9. If no, go to the next step.
Replace the appropriate door and/or seals. When the repair is complete, go to step 10.
Remove any obstructions or foreign material found. When the repair is complete, go to step 10.
Install the components removed in step 5. When complete, go to the next step.
Operate the system to verify the repair. If system operates without noise, the repair is complete. If noise still exists, repeat the entire procedure.
No ,very possible it is due to expansion. There is a covering on the return pipe called armour flex. this armourflex stops ice migration inside the walls of the fridge. If it breaks away, the ice expands around the pipe and and pushes on the insulation foam which then cracks and makes those loud noises. Have heard this noise many times on a particular brand of fridge to a point where some customers have dived for the floor thinking they are being shot at. Repairing that problem is a biggish repair and not cheap. You will find if it is the compressor it normally only happens at either start up or switch off (a clattering sound)
The hum a fluorescent light makes is the 50 or 60 Hz hum of the alternating current mains supply. Inside the light fitting is a choke which when less than perfect tends to hum. When the choke is loose internally or externally is when the hum becomes an annoying buzz.
When an audio system has a similar tone of buzzing or humming the source will invariably be the same AC mains but how it got in there is difficult to answer...
It could possibly be poor smoothing and regulation of the power supply or an accidental hum loop caused by careless design and/or poor grounding. It could be caused by being induced in the input by connecting leads that are too long and poorly positioned/screened or it could be caused by mismatch between different components causing a poor signal-to-noise-ratio.
I am not sure why it should come and go but the fact it does would indicate a power supply problem more than the other possible causes.
If the Onkyo system has it's own volume control and it is being used witha tv or similar, it is worth trying to imporove things by turning up the tv volume to near maximum and then controlling the volume with the system control.
Try to see if the reciever will make the buzzing/noise without anything connected to it except power, and speakers. Tune into a local radio station and see if the noise continues. If the noise has stopped, then you know there is an issue with the player or cable.