How to replace power switch

Whirlpool-made Front Loading such as the Kenmore Elite washing machines use a door lock and switch assembly having a tab that can be pulled manually for emergency opening of the door. This tab can be accessed with the removal of the lower front access panel. Disconnect power to the washer and drain the water from the tub before accessing it.

Remove the three screws attaching the lower front access panel to the cabinet then pull the panel down and off the cabinet. You can prop up the bottom front edge of the washer or cushion and lean it against the wall to access and remove the screws more easily.

Once the panel is off, reach up along the inside of the front panel and locate the bottom of the door lock and switch assembly on the right side. Locate the tear-drop shaped tab then gently pull it down until a click is heard, and then open the door.


The door lock and switch assembly may need to be replaced if the problem persists. The replacement procedure is here.

Some Whirlpool-made Front Loading such as the Kenmore Elite use another type of door lock and switch assembly but still with the release tab and can be accessed through the washer top. Remove the screws attaching the top panel to the rear of the machine then pull the panel rearward and off the cabinet. Pull the release tab until a click is heard then open the door.

Disconnect power and remove the three screws attaching the lower front access panel to the cabinet then pull the panel down and off the cabinet. You can prop up the bottom front edge of the washer or cushion and lean it against the wall to access and remove the screws more easily.

Once the panel is off, reach up along the inside of the front panel and locate the bottom of the door lock and switch assembly on the right side. Locate the tear-drop shaped tab then gently pull it down until a click is heard, and then open the door.


The door lock and switch assembly may need to be replaced if the problem persists.

Replacing the Door Lock and Switch Assembly

Hi

To change the belt you'll need to remove the top paenl and then remove the drum and you would be able to see the belt. You can disassemble it by the following procedure--

Drum Removal / Roller / Glide Access--

• Disconnect power supply to unit.
• Remove Top Cover and Front Panel,

Top Cover / Door Switch / Front Panel /Gasket Removal-

1. Disconnect power supply to unit.
2. Use a plastic putty knife to depress the locking clip between the Top Cover and Front Panel.
3. Disconnect wiring from the Door Switch.
4. Depress the locking tabs on switch side and remove through the front.
5. Remove two screws, 1 each side, from the back flange of the Front Panel.
6. Tip Front Panel back and remove. Rotate Front Panel to the back side and remove gasket.
Hope this helps...

Daniel

Whirlpool Front Loading washing machines use a door lock and switch assembly having a tab that can be pulled manually for emergency opening of the door. This tab can be accessed with the removal of the lower front access panel. Disconnect power to the washer before accessing it.

Remove the three screws attaching the lower front access panel to the cabinet then pull the panel down and off the cabinet. You can prop up the bottom front edge of the washer or cushion and lean it against the wall to access and remove the screws more easily.

Once the panel is off, reach up along the inside of the front panel and locate the bottom of the door lock and switch assembly on the right side. Locate the tear-drop shaped tab then gently pull it down until a click is heard, and then open the door.


The door lock and switch assembly may need to be replaced if the problem persists. The replacement procedure is here.

There is a manual unlocking tab located at the bottom of the door lock and switch assembly. Disconnect power to the washer before accessing it.

Remove the three screws attaching the lower front access panel to the cabinet then pull the panel down and off the cabinet. You can prop up the bottom front edge of the washer or cushion and lean it against the wall to access the screws more easily.

Reach up along the inside of the front panel and locate the bottom of the door lock and switch assembly on the right side.

Locate the tear-drop shaped tab then gently pull it down until a click is heard, and then open the door.

The door lock and switch assembly may need to be replaced if the problem persists. The replacement procedure is here.

HI. There are two areas of concern here. You will need to test each area to isolate the culprit. Use the procedures to assist with the testing of the door, and start switch.

DOOR SWITCH:

The door switch may be accessible without removing the front panel or cabinet. The switch is located in the front panel of the dryer, around the perimeter of the door opening. Inspect the switch to determine if it can be popped out or accessed by removing a fastening screw. If it cannot be accessed from the front, it will be necessary to open the dryer cabinet. When reaching into the dryer be careful of sharp edges on the cabinet and interior supports.

Access varies by model, if your dryer has a lower front panel (kick plate) start there. It should lift up and off or it may be held in place with a few screws or snaps; it may also have a catch at the edges or center gap between the kick panel and main panel. To release the catch, push a putty knife, wrapped with masking tape, into the gap and push back the catch. The next easiest access point is the rear panel. The rear access panel is held in place with several screws along the outer edges. The last resort method of access is the removal of the entire front panel. The front panel supports the front of the drum and so removal is more difficult. Front panel removal varies. In general, access is gained by lifting the top (remove the lint trap screws first), removing the screws that secure the front panel, and detaching the panel from the drum.

Locate the door switch, it typically has two wires connected to it. Label the wires and connections so that you can properly reconnect them later. The wires are connected with slip on connectors. Firmly pull the connectors off of the terminals (do not pull on the wire itself). You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If either is corroded they should be cleaned or replaced.

Use a multimeter to test for continuity. Set the meter to the ohms setting X1. For a two wire switch, touch one probe to each terminal. You should get a reading of infinity. With the probes still in place, press and hold the switch, the reading should change to zero.

If the switch does not test as described, it should be replaced.


START SWITCH:

Locate the start switch(Usually located in the control panel housing). it will have two or three wires connected to it. Label the wires and connections so that you can properly reconnect them later. The wires are connected with slip on connectors. Firmly pull the connectors off of the terminals (do not pull on the wire itself). You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If either is corroded they should be cleaned or replaced.

Use a multimeter to test for continuity. Set the meter to the ohms setting X1. For a two wire switch, touch one probe to each terminal. You should get a reading of infinity. With the probes still in place, press and hold the start switch, the reading should change to zero.

For a three wire switch, touch one probe to the terminal labeled NC (or CT1) and touch the other probe to the terminal labeled CO (or R1). You should get a reading of infinity. With the probes still in place, press and hold the start switch, the reading should change to zero.

If the switch fails either test, it should be replaced.

HI. This may be a possible belt issue. the belt may have slipped off, or failed. To access, simply, remove the access panel on the rear of the unit. Once removed, you will be able to inspect the belt location.Replace the belt, if needed.

Additionally, if the belt is ok, i would recommend to move on to the door switch. Most units are designed to not spin, if the door switch circuit has failed. Use the procedure below to test this switch.


The door switch may be accessible without removing the front panel or cabinet. The switch is located in the front panel of the dryer, around the perimeter of the door opening. Inspect the switch to determine if it can be popped out or accessed by removing a fastening screw. If it cannot be accessed from the front, it will be necessary to open the dryer cabinet. When reaching into the dryer be careful of sharp edges on the cabinet and interior supports.

Access varies by model, if your dryer has a lower front panel (kick plate) start there. It should lift up and off or it may be held in place with a few screws or snaps; it may also have a catch at the edges or center gap between the kick panel and main panel. To release the catch, push a putty knife, wrapped with masking tape, into the gap and push back the catch. The next easiest access point is the rear panel. The rear access panel is held in place with several screws along the outer edges. The last resort method of access is the removal of the entire front panel. The front panel supports the front of the drum and so removal is more difficult. Front panel removal varies. In general, access is gained by lifting the top (remove the lint trap screws first), removing the screws that secure the front panel, and detaching the panel from the drum.

Locate the door switch, it typically has two wires connected to it. Label the wires and connections so that you can properly reconnect them later. The wires are connected with slip on connectors. Firmly pull the connectors off of the terminals (do not pull on the wire itself). You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If either is corroded they should be cleaned or replaced.

Use a multimeter to test for continuity. Set the meter to the ohms setting X1. For a two wire switch, touch one probe to each terminal. You should get a reading of infinity. With the probes still in place, press and hold the switch, the reading should change to zero.

If the switch does not test as described, it should be replaced.

Now, if the door switch is ok, and operational, the motor will be the culprit.

HI. Actually, the door switch will be the next component that you will need to test in this situation.Once you have ruled out the door switch, I would then replace the timer module. The door switch plays a very important part in the operation of the unit. If the switch is weak, or faulty, it will not allow for a complete closed circuit.

The door switch may be accessible without removing the front panel or cabinet. The switch is located in the front panel of the dryer, around the perimeter of the door opening. Inspect the switch to determine if it can be popped out or accessed by removing a fastening screw. If it cannot be accessed from the front, it will be necessary to open the dryer cabinet. When reaching into the dryer be careful of sharp edges on the cabinet and interior supports.

Access varies by model, if your dryer has a lower front panel (kick plate) start there. It should lift up and off or it may be held in place with a few screws or snaps; it may also have a catch at the edges or center gap between the kick panel and main panel. To release the catch, push a putty knife, wrapped with masking tape, into the gap and push back the catch. The next easiest access point is the rear panel. The rear access panel is held in place with several screws along the outer edges. The last resort method of access is the removal of the entire front panel. The front panel supports the front of the drum and so removal is more difficult. Front panel removal varies. In general, access is gained by lifting the top (remove the lint trap screws first), removing the screws that secure the front panel, and detaching the panel from the drum.

Locate the doort switch, it typically has two wires connected to it. Label the wires and connections so that you can properly reconnect them later. The wires are connected with slip on connectors. Firmly pull the connectors off of the terminals (do not pull on the wire itself). You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If either is corroded they should be cleaned or replaced.

Use a multimeter to test for continuity. Set the meter to the ohms setting X1. For a two wire switch, touch one probe to each terminal. You should get a reading of infinity. With the probes still in place, press and hold the switch, the reading should change to zero.

If the switch does not test as described, it should be replaced.

Now, if the door switch is ok, and passes the above test, this will lead to the timer.

Hi. There are two problem spots that i would inspect to determine the actual issue here. These spots are the door, and start switch.

DOOR SWITCH


The door switch may be accessible without removing the front panel or cabinet. The switch is located in the front panel of the dryer, around the perimeter of the door opening. Inspect the switch to determine if it can be popped out or accessed by removing a fastening screw. If it cannot be accessed from the front, it will be necessary to open the dryer cabinet. When reaching into the dryer be careful of sharp edges on the cabinet and interior supports.

Access varies by model, if your dryer has a lower front panel (kick plate) start there. It should lift up and off or it may be held in place with a few screws or snaps; it may also have a catch at the edges or center gap between the kick panel and main panel. To release the catch, push a putty knife, wrapped with masking tape, into the gap and push back the catch. The next easiest access point is the rear panel. The rear access panel is held in place with several screws along the outer edges. The last resort method of access is the removal of the entire front panel. The front panel supports the front of the drum and so removal is more difficult. Front panel removal varies. In general, access is gained by lifting the top (remove the lint trap screws first), removing the screws that secure the front panel, and detaching the panel from the drum.

Locate the door switch, it typically has two wires connected to it. Label the wires and connections so that you can properly reconnect them later. The wires are connected with slip on connectors. Firmly pull the connectors off of the terminals (do not pull on the wire itself). You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If either is corroded they should be cleaned or replaced.

Use a multimeter to test for continuity. Set the meter to the ohms setting X1. For a two wire switch, touch one probe to each terminal. You should get a reading of infinity. With the probes still in place, press and hold the switch, the reading should change to zero.

If the switch does not test as described, it should be replaced.

START SWITCH

Locate the start switch, it will have two or three wires connected to it. Label the wires and connections so that you can properly reconnect them later. The wires are connected with slip on connectors. Firmly pull the connectors off of the terminals (do not pull on the wire itself). You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If either is corroded they should be cleaned or replaced.

Use a multimeter to test for continuity. Set the meter to the ohms setting X1. For a two wire switch, touch one probe to each terminal. You should get a reading of infinity. With the probes still in place, press and hold the start switch, the reading should change to zero.

For a three wire switch, touch one probe to the terminal labeled NC (or CT1) and touch the other probe to the terminal labeled CO (or R1). You should get a reading of infinity. With the probes still in place, press and hold the start switch, the reading should change to zero.

If the switch fails either test, it should be replaced.


NOTE:-(Make sure the unit is getting power before you inspect the above areas for faults.)

Some washing machines have the bolts that hold the top down situated behind the front panel but you have to remove the panel to gain access.
There may be 3-4 screws at the bottom of the front panel, remove the screws and the panel should come out.
Hope this has helped