Occasionally, switching from red channel to green channel the amp gets stuck between channels both lights are off, and only a slight sound
After a couple thumps with my finger right under the green light, the classic gain stage kicks in, the green light comes on and sounds fine. This happens sporadically, but has been happening for a while now
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Simplest is to use the LR button at the bottom of the channel strips you want to send to the main mix. Make sure you set the gain for each channel in use so that the clip light just occasionally blinked then back off a fraction.
If you want to use sub channels assign the strip to the appropriate one 1/2 or 3/4 and the assign the sub to the main mix and bring the subs up.
Which clip light on what and what mics are you using?
The small room settings are from 10 so just turn the know to the setting you require and press it, this should set it.
The stadard way of setting up mics is to set the channel gain so the channel clip light just blinks occasionally when you are making the maximum sound you can into the mic.
For effects repeat this process using the aux send FX for each channel you want fx on (turn the rest to 0) and doing a balancing act between these and the aux send fx master so you can only just get the FX clip light blinking occasionally.
Next set your gain/attenuators on the amp(s) so its clip warning can just trigger when you are giving it 0db when you are playing the loudest you ever will.
A mic fading away could be the battery dying (in which case try using phantom power) or if they're radio replace the batteries before each service. If they're wired dynamic mics then it is possible there's some protection circuit somewhere that's reacting to the constant clipping and backing off the amp.
There can be any number of reasons for this problem - solve it diagnostically by starting with something that you know is working and work through systematically to the other end.
Test a microphone on a separate amp to make sure it works okay. Check amp and speakers working. Check that all output cables from mixer to amp are working by testing separately.
Plug microphone into a channel on mixer. Also plug in headphones and turn headphone volume control up.
Make sure input sensitivity knob is turned up a bit (say half way) and main output faders (yellow) are up.
Check that channel is turned on (little button just above the channel fader- needs to be pressed down)
press pfl (pre-fade listen) button (next to button to switch channel on)- do you get any sound on main output or headphones or any indicator lights on mixer to show signal is getting that far (eitehr the individual channel metering lights or the main ones in the central section)?
turn off pfl - make sure channel fader (slider) is up - normal position is ) - about 3/4 of way up. Check lights again on individual channel and main output section - any signs?
Is the sub mix button for the channel pressed down - in which case you will need to bring sub mix (red) output faders up as well as main faders.
If you have got signs of signal on the individual channel but not main see if the channel has been routed somewhere odd (like a subgroup of channels).
Plug a working amp and speakers into one of the auxiliary outputs and use the relevant auxiliary send knob (on each channel just above the faders and pfl switches) to pan some signal to that auxiliary out - do you get anything? There is also a headphone socket for listening to the auxiliary channels (with a selector switch /knob to determine which one - make sure it is in the right position) try listening to the auxiliary output with headphones - anything? If yes the problem lies in the main output section.
Check that there is not a jack plug in the insert socket (to route signal through an external effects unit) without a matching return jack being plugged in - if appropriate is relevant effects unit switched on and correctly set up - if unsure remove the insert plug to take it out of the system.
Make sure any mute buttons are not switched in on main outputs.
You've got a loose wire! What's happening is that there's a bad potentiometer (the electrical component behind the knob) that's out of place and is only connecting fully at one point in the knobs circuit (the part where you get full volume) take it in to an amp tech at your local music store and they'll fix it up easily.
I suspect you MAY have a severe ground loop. The green light indicates channel crossover if nothing plugged in.
MAKE SURE ALL connected equipment is powered from the SAME receptacle. If you service amps from receptacles at one end of the room and this board from the other end, you are ASKING for trouble.
Read up on "common mode" as it pertains to balanced lines. Equipment can be at risk if grounds "bounce" as they often do.
When green light with no inout shows up, slide all faders down first. Then unplug input lines one at a time... turn off the amps and then unplug the output lines one at a time. See if one of these inout or output lines was causing the green light.
You should be using BALANCED lines to your amps... either XLR or TRS types at both ends.
Here is the schematic:http://www.ampix.org/albums/userpics/10003/MArshall_MG100DFX.pdf There are a few possibilities.The jack for the footswitch for channel changing JS1 might be faulty. Zener diodes 1 and/or 2 might be faulty. Switch 2 may be defective. TR1 might be defective. IC 4 or 5 might be defective.Start with the channel switching circuitry testing in the order I gave you. Check the actual clean channel circuitry to see if you actually have a clean channel anymore. Before you do any of this make sure you know enough about troubleshooting and have at least a good VOM and are familiar with safety procedures. The filter capacitors in this amp store enough charge to kill you. A cheat to partially discharge them without damaging the amp is to unplug it from the wall while it is hooked up to the speaker cab you are using while it is on at a very low volume with a guitar cord plugged in. Make sure you use exact replacement parts if you tackle this. They don't have to be from Marshall, they just have to be exact electronic equivalents from a quality manufacturer installed correctly. I would recommend that if you have no experience or are at all unsure of the repair to take it to a Marshall dealer to have it done. Please rate me if this helps.
Your amp has two channels - "normal" and "drive." When you are on the normal channel, the "volume" knob controls your gain. In the "drive" channel, the drive knob controls your gain. In both channels, the "master" knob limits how loud the amp will get.
Most likely, you are on the drive channel, so the volume knob will have no effect. Try pushing the "channel select" switch. You should notice the channel indicator lamp (next to the drive knob) turn off. When it is off, you are in the normal mode. Yellow = drive, and red = "more drive."
Experiment with different settings to get a variety of tones.
To get the most out of this amp, try reading the manual, available online here: http://www.fender.com/support/manuals/pdfs/manuals_elec/guitarpdf/Hot_Rod_Deluxe.pdf