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Brake/clutch pedal will not release completely. So when try to run, belts are loose and then it won't go.How to troublehoot?

13AO775H755 2007 46' Yardman riding mower.

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  • 7 more comments 
  • Linda Milligan
    Linda Milligan May 02, 2015

    I think the spring I previously asked about goes somewhere in this part and not on deck.

  •  johnny rebel
    johnny rebel May 04, 2015

    the one with the a doesnt fit your tractor,click on link and go to the bottom and look for your yardman tractor,it is not therehttp://www.ereplacementparts.com/belt-p-...

  •  johnny rebel
    johnny rebel May 04, 2015

    the one without the a doesnt go to your tractor eitherhttp://www.ereplacementparts.com/vtype-b...

  •  johnny rebel
    johnny rebel May 04, 2015

    this is the deck belthttp://www.ereplacementparts.com/deck-be...

  •  johnny rebel
    johnny rebel May 04, 2015

    this is the deck to motor belthttp://www.ereplacementparts.com/vtype-b...

  •  johnny rebel
    johnny rebel May 04, 2015

    this is your tractor parts diagramhttp://www.ereplacementparts.com/yard-ma...

  • Linda Milligan
    Linda Milligan May 04, 2015

    drive belt is what I need help with. I measured the one I have, it is correct one,

  •  johnny rebel
    johnny rebel May 04, 2015

    it is not the correct one,did you compress the pulley on the deck so that it puts tension on the belt??,probably not,,,I have been building,rebuilding and fixing these tractors for a while,unless you have a different mowing deck that came with your mower,then you need to follow the parts diagram.
    this is my stuff











  •  johnny rebel
    johnny rebel May 04, 2015

    I built these from pices and parts

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  • 371 Answers

Broken return springs?

Posted on May 03, 2015

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Belts are too big

Posted on May 02, 2015

  • 2 more comments 
  • Linda Milligan
    Linda Milligan May 03, 2015

    The belts are the correct ones for the mower. They are OME. I am thinking after laying on the ground studying the diagram and the mower, that the control rod and the brake rod are not attached to the pedal assembly correctly. It would help if I had an actual picture of correct assembly, instead of blown apart diagram. Thanks.

  •  johnny rebel
    johnny rebel May 03, 2015

    google "how to adjust brake/clutch on yardman tractor",I just got a virus looking for you,I am stopping to reboot and fix my comp,i am done

  • Linda Milligan
    Linda Milligan May 03, 2015

    I ordered correct belt but think it is wrong. ordered 754-14001A but belt has 754-14001 stamped on it

  • Linda Milligan
    Linda Milligan May 04, 2015

    I checked, I do have correct belt. I googled as well. That's how I ended up here.

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Husqvarna YTH2348 when clutch pedal is released, something grinds below and makes a lot of noise, but tractor does move.


Not sure what is going on here, these machines do not have a clutch as such, it will be a idler pulley that is pulled onto the back of the belt to tention it thus taking the drive to the hydro unit, so it may be a simple idler pulley replacment, or slave pulley replacement, with the hydro in neutral have somebody sit in the seat and work the pedal whilst you look under neath and watch what is happening.

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Pt cruiser clutch diagram


I recommend bleeding the clutch using instructions pasted from autozone.com below. As for the engine light, please get the computer scanned and send us the diagnostic trouble code.
Hydraulic System Bleeding NOTE
It is necessary to bleed the clutch hydraulic release system if the system has lost an excessive amount of fluid and has allowed air into the circuit. Air in the system typically results in a spongy pedal feel, and/or improper clutch release. If air cannot be removed from the system using this procedure, it is necessary to replace both the clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder assemblies.

Except Turbocharged Models
  1. From driver's seat, actuate clutch pedal 60-100 times. Verify clutch operation/pedal feel. If pedal still feels spongy, or clutch does not fully disengage, excessive air is still trapped within the system. Perform the following procedure:
  2. Verify fluid level in clutch master cylinder reservoir. Top off with DOT 3 brake fluid as necessary.
  3. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
  4. Remove clutch slave cylinder assembly from the transaxle case, but do not disconnect from the system. Allow the slave cylinder hang, making it the lowest part of the system.
    CAUTION
    While slave cylinder is detached from the transaxle, DO NOT actuate the clutch master cylinder. Damage to the slave cylinder will result.
  5. Depress slave cylinder pushrod until it bottoms and then release. Repeat this at least ten times, forcing trapped air upwards and out of the system.
  6. Re-install slave cylinder into position. Torque slave cylinder to case bolt to 168 inch lbs. (19 Nm).
  7. Carefully lower the vehicle.
  8. Check and adjust clutch master cylinder fluid level. Actuate clutch pedal thirty (30) times. Verify clutch operation/pedal feel. If pedal still feels spongy, or clutch does not fully disengage, air is still trapped within the system. Repeat Step 3 through Step 7 until air is purged. If several attempts at purging air from the system are unsuccessful, replace both the clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder assemblies.
  9. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
  10. Carefully lower the vehicle.
  11. Top off clutch master cylinder fluid level with DOT 3 brake fluid as necessary.
Turbocharged Models

NOTE
Due to the angle and design of the turbo hydraulic system components, gravity and pedal bleeding are less effective and less efficient than the reverse fluid injection method (reverse bleeding). Reverse bleeding is recommended for this system, and requires the use of commercially available injection bleeding equipment.

Alternate Procedure (Pedal Bleeding)
  1. Remove reservoir cap and inspect fluid level. Top off with DOT 3 Brake Fluid. Actuate clutch pedal briskly at least 50 times. Verify release system function. Repeat. If release system is still inoperative, continue with procedure.
  2. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
  3. Remove clutch bellhousing access cap to expose system bleed screw.
    WARNING
    Use care not to allow fluid to drain into clutch bellhousing. Excessive fluid will be agitated and sprayed around inside the clutch bellhousing by the rotating flywheel, contaminating the flywheel, disc, and pressure plate, resulting in poor clutch engagement.
  4. Using suitable socket/wrench, loosen bleed screw. Immediately install rubber hose to bleed screw to prevent fluid from entering clutch bellhousing. Tighten bleed screw gently with suitable wrench.
  5. Lower vehicle.
  6. Have helper actuate clutch pedal to floor.
  7. Place collection container at end of hose to capture expelled fluid.
  8. Using suitable wrench, break bleeder screw loose and tighten to 62 inch lbs. (7 Nm). Do not over-tighten.
  9. Have helper release pedal, returning it to at-rest position, and then actuate pedal to floor.
  10. Break bleeder screw loose and tighten to 62 inch lbs. (7 Nm). Do not over-tighten.
  11. Repeat procedure as necessary, keeping master cylinder reservoir full during the process, until air bubbles are no longer visible in collection container.
  12. When air bubbles are no longer visible, actuate clutch pedal briskly at least 50 times.
  13. Verify release system function and top off fluid as necessary.
Recommended Procedure (Reverse Bleeding)
  1. Remove reservoir cap and inspect fluid level. Top off with DOT 3 Brake Fluid. Actuate clutch pedal briskly at least 50 times. Verify release system function. Repeat. If release system is still inoperative, continue with procedure.
  2. Remove reservoir from bracket and empty into collection container.
  3. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
  4. Remove clutch bellhousing access cap to expose system bleed screw.
    CAUTION
    Use care not to allow fluid to drain into clutch bellhousing. Excessive fluid will be agitated and sprayed around inside the clutch bellhousing by the rotating flywheel, contaminating the flywheel, disc, and pressure plate, resulting in poor clutch engagement.
  5. Using suitable socket/wrench, loosen bleed screw.


    Fig. Location of the bleed screw for the 2.4L engine
  6. Quickly attach hand operated bleed apparatus to bleed screw. Use care not to over-fill reservoir and spill fluid into engine compartment.
  7. Operate bleed gun sufficiently to expel air upward through circuit and out of master cylinder reservoir. Fill and empty reservoir three times.
  8. Remove bleed apparatus and tighten bleed screw to 62 inch lbs. (7 Nm). Do not over-tighten.
  9. Carefully lower the vehicle.
  10. Top off reservoir with fluid, then return the cap.
  11. Verify system operation. Actuate clutch pedal 50 times. If necessary, repeat procedure until road test confirms that shift issues no longer exist.

May 20, 2017 | 2002 Chrysler PT Cruiser

1 Answer

Shift lever will not move out of park. Engine is running, seat belt fastened, parking brake released, all doors hood and trunk closed, foot firmly on brake pedal.When the button on the side of the shifter...


you should hear a click from the solenoid when you apply the brakes. If your brake lights don't work, your shift lock release won't either. There is a bypass method for emergencies in your owner manual. Check fuse for brake lights. And switch on brake pedal

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1 Answer

Drive belt is too loose, already replaced belt and pulley. no drive power, plenty of deck power. Tractor is 8-10 years old, drive pulley portion of the double engine pulley split, so I replaced it and...


I had the same problem with my Craftsman Lawn Tractor. The Drive Belt (which is not adjustable) is only engaged when the Brake Pedal is released (the Brake Pedal is located on the left side of the tractor, near the foot rest on my Tractor).

The Symptoms: My Tractor lacked driving power, and would not go up an incline, but the mower deck was powerful and working fine, even though the Tractor seemed to lack power and moved slower than usual, and would not travel up an incline.

I too, changed the Drive Belt, which initially seemed to help somewhat for a very short period of time, and then the same, lack of power problem, re-appeared again. The belt was not the problem, but only seemed to work somewhat due to the rougher texture of the belt's surface against the pulleys.

I also changed the Plastic Clutch Pulleys that engage the Drive Belt, thinking that they may have been worn down to a point that the Drive Belt could not fully engage with these Pulleys. No Luck.

NO ONE, NOT EVEN SEARS ON-LINE REPAIR ADVICE CENTER HAD A SOLUTION. THIS WAS VERY FRUSTRATING INDEED.

There had to be a solution: After much investigation, I eventually discovered the problem, which actually was easy to solve, and I would like to share this simple solution with others facing this same Frustrating Problem.

The Brake Pedal, when released, causes the Drive Belt Clutch Pulleys to move, and thus Tighten the Drive Belt. When you look under the Tractor, there is a Protective Metal Plate mounted to the Bottom of the Main Tractor Frame which covers the Brake Pedal Shaft and attached Mechanisms. Over time, Grass Builds up in between the Protective Metal Plate and the Tractor's Main Frame Deck, creating a very narrow space between these two pieces of metal.

This area is very difficult to get at, and almost impossible to clean out. Over time, Grass Clippings accumulate in this hidden area, and harden to an almost rock hard clump.

These Hardened Clippings accumulated between the Brake Pedal Mechanism and its fully released metal stop position. Thus, preventing the Brake Pedal Mechanism from moving to its fully engaged position.

I used a long screw driver to break up the compacted grass clippings, and an Air Compressor Blow Gun to break up the packed grass and blow the area clear. It takes awhile to do this cleanup, and is a bit messy, so do it outside, but be patient, and be sure to clean out all the grass that is lodged in this hidden area.

What was happening was that the Packed Grass was so dense that the Brake Pedal could not Fully Release, thus only Partially Engaging the Clutch Pulleys and the Drive Belt, hence the appearance of a loose Drive Belt even when the Brake Pedal was released.

Once the Packed Grass Debris was cleaned out, you will immediately notice the Drive Belt being tighter than it was previously when the Brake Pedal is released, and when you test drive the Tractor you'll find that everything works perfectly, like it was brand new.

Good Luck...
Rayko

Jul 15, 2010 | Craftsman Garden

1 Answer

My craftsman 17hp lawn tractor shutters bad when releasing the clutch pedal. is it the clutch and where is it located?


Its not really a clutch, clutch/brake pedal when pressed will release belt pressure which stops pulley from turn axle. When predded all the way down it mechanically applies brakes. The vibration is from a bad pully that the drive belt rides on or a bad belt. Look for chucks of belt missing.With engine off put on parking brake and manually wiggle each pulley that drive belt rides on to see if there is any play. No play should be present. Good luck.

Mar 20, 2010 | Craftsman 42 in. Deck 19.5hp Lawn Tractor

1 Answer

Info on do it tyour self clutch removal on 2001 mustang 3.8


REMOVAL:
  1. Lift clutch pedal to uppermost position to disengage clutch and brake pedal pivot shaft.
  2. Push clutch and brake pedal pivot shaft forward and unhook clutch release lever cable from clutch and brake pedal pivot shaft and allow it to slowly swing rearward.
  3. Raise and support vehicle.
  4. Remove clutch release lever dust shield.
  5. Disconnect clutch release lever cable from clutch release shaft.
  6. Remove retaining clip, then clutch release lever cable from flywheel housing.
  7. Remove starter motor from flywheel housing, then engine rear plate to front lower flywheel housing bolts.
  8. Remove transmission.
  9. Remove flywheel housing back just far enough to clear clutch pressure plate, then remove housing.
  10. Remove clutch release shaft from flywheel housing by pulling it through window in flywheel housing until retainer spring disengages from pivot.
  11. Remove clutch release hub and bearing from clutch release shaft.
  12. Loosen six clutch pressure plate bolts evenly to release spring tension gradually and avoid distorting clutch pressure plate. If same clutch pressure plate is to be installed, mark plate and flywheel so pressure plate can be installed in its original position.
  13. Remove clutch pressure plate and clutch disc from flywheel.
INSTALLATION:
  1. Position clutch disc and pressure plate assembly on flywheel, noting following:
    1. Three flywheel housing to block dowels on flywheel must be properly aligned with clutch pressure plate.
    2. Bent, damaged or missing flywheel housing to block dowels must be replaced.
    3. tart clutch pressure plate bolts but do not tighten.
    4. Avoid touching clutch disc face, dropping parts or contaminating parts with oil or grease.
    5. Align clutch disc using suitable alignment tool inserted in pilot bearing.
    6. To avoid clutch pressure plate distortion, alternately tighten bolts a few turns at a time, until they are all tight, then tighten to specifications.

  2. Install transmission to flywheel housing.
  3. Install engine rear plate to flywheel front lower housing bolts, then connect clutch release cable to flywheel housing and connect retaining clip.
  4. Connect clutch release lever cable to clutch release shaft, then install clutch release lever dust shield.
  5. Install starter motor.
  6. Lower vehicle, then install clutch release lever cable as follows:
    1. Lift clutch pedal to disengage clutch and brake pedal pivot shaft.
    2. Push clutch and brake pedal pivot shaft forward and hook end of clutch release lever cable over rear of clutch and brake pedal pivot shaft.

  7. Cycle clutch pedal several times to adjust clutch release lever cable

Aug 08, 2009 | 2001 Ford Mustang

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