Question about Samsung DV365ETBGWR/A3 White Electric Dryer 7.3 Cu Ft, 9 Cycles

1 Answer

Why won't it turn on?

I was recently doing some wiring and accidentally cut into the 220 dryer wire. I fixed the wire and power is now going to the dryer, but the dryer won't turn on at all. I know that it is getting power to the dryer. Would a thermal fuse cause the dryer to not turn on at all or would it most likely be something wrong with the control board. Thanks for your help.

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  • jason mitchell May 02, 2015

    I put a tester on the thermal fuse and it went from 1 to .05. I think that means it is good.


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Check your venting and lint basket. Check blower for lint build up and blower wheel obstruction., test by trying to turn the wheel manually by hand (should be easy) May have to remove cabinet or front/back plate to get to it)

Next check the heating element itself with a meter for continuity OHMS CLOSED CIRCUIT. If not its defective or has a short if its grounding out? Which in turns causes blown fuses or thermostats or

The heating elements are located inside the heater ducts. If you think a heating element is faulty, test it with avolt-ohm-multimeter (VOM)set to the RX1 scale. Disconnect the leads from the power terminals and clip one probe of the VOM to each terminal. The meter should read about 12 ohms. If the reading is higher ohms, the heater is faulty and should be replaced. Replace a faulty heater with a new one of the same type and electrical rating. A heater connected to a 115-volt line usually has an 8.4-ohm resistance; a heater connected to a 220-volt line usually has 11 ohms resistance.

Check dryer Terminal block prongs both outside prongs should give combined 220, and 110 each if u check 1 outside & 1 center (ground) prong. Also check house electrical outlet for full voltage. 220 because if u only get half or 110 volts you will be able to run the machine which uses only 110 to run motor but not the heater which uses a full 220,

Check the thermal cut off, the cycling and the hi limit thermostats.
For continuity or OHMS. If no ohms or resistance they need replacement.

In some dryer's the control panel relies on a thermistor rather than a CYCLING thermostat to regulate the drum's air temperature by monitoring the component's resistance changes; resistance goes down as temperature increases and up when temperature decreases. Once the drum's air temperature reaches a certain level required to dry clothes, the control panel shuts off the heater. The panel will turn the heater on again and begin another heating cycle when the thermistor indicates that more heat is needed to keep the air temperature constant inside the drum

Lastly check your moister sensor. ( located inside the dryer door usually) Especially if machine seems to shut down early and clothes are still wet.
Test with a meter at room temperature and it should show continuity.
A failed moisture sensor will affect the dryer run time in the automatic moisture sensing cycle but it will not affect the heating of the dryer or the timed cycle. Which are reflected by the thermostats.

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Posted on May 04, 2015

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: My son took a Samsung

Since you didn't list the model number from the id tag, I can't be specific but many things could have be shorted out if the 220 V receptacle got a hot to the neutral.

A 220 volt circuit is just two 110 volt circuits together, so sensors, motors, blower motors could all be suspect. Without some indications it is impossible to give you an idea of what he needs. Please ask him what EXACTLY the dryer is doing, and I will do my best to give you some advice on what he needs. With just the electricity wired incorrectly I would have to recommend you take all electronic parts to be sure you took the right one, But if you did that it would be almost as cheap to ship him a new dryer.

Posted on Aug 31, 2011

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If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer won't work and you need to replace the failed component. The switch is inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch. Check for continuity you should have none with door open, and should have a reading when closed. If not replace the door switch.

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On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse (a heat-sensitive fuse that blows if the dryer overheats) mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel or behind the front panel. The fuse is about an inch long. It's usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing or is sometimes round and made of metal and plastic.

If the fuse has blown, it has no continuity. When this happens, your dryer either just stops heating, or it doesn't work at all. Be sure to inspect the venting/heating system before replacing the fuse this is the most common reason for blowing the fuse. (You can't re-set this type of fuse.)


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take the back off after disconnecting your power course ( of course) and check your heating element... see if its clogged up. clean it all out, clear any loose debris and set it aside securely so that it wont accidentally move or shock you or cause a fire then turn it so you can see the exposed element.

Plug it back in and run the dryer.... if the element works then perhaps it was a dirty sensor or something ( there are a couple of sensors you will see that are installed in the side wall of the heating element, there is also a thermostat). If the element fails to heat, unplug the dryer from the power source and check the wires going into the element and its sensors, thermostat... if any of them look burnt or corroded near the female coupler ( wire will look black and toasty around the outside insulation closest to the connector on the sensor or w/e). Buy a new coupler and some heavy grade electrical tape and some wire strippers. YOU HAVE TO BUY HEAVY GAUGE FEMALE COUPLERS AND NOT THE THIS CAR STEREO TYPE AND YOU MUST USE HIGH GRADE ELECTRICAL TAPE CERTIFIED FOR 220!!... unplug the wire and remove the old coupler with wire cutters and strip back the insulation and inch or so to the bare wire and inspect the copper for any corrosion. once you find a good section twist it a bit and place it in the neck of the new coupler then use your stripping tool' front teeth to crimp the coupler onto the bare wire. make sure you have enough slack in the wire to connect it back to the sensor because they dont give you that much wire to play with and I would hate for you to have to replace the whole wire if you didn't have to. Next, liberally apply the electrical tape starting at the neck of the coupler and working your way down the length of the bare wire. You only need to use as much tape make it as thick as the rubber/plastic wire insulation that is already on the wire. Make sure you put tension on the tape as you apply it to ensure god coverage and adhesion.

Reconnect the wire(s) and make sure the element is secure and no lose debris is anywhere near any moving parts or electrical wires or exposed heating coils, then plug the pug tail bag into the 220 and start the dryer... if the element still does not work after the repair you should use a voltage tester on the sensors, thermostats and the element it self... then sensors are fairly reasonable and common sense you have a Kenmore but the elements vary greatly... a new heating element can cost $14 to $45+ dollars U.S.

Dont feel bad after doing the wire repair if it doesn't work because its worth your time. If the wire repair DOES work you are only out about 6 bucks like I said. But you just have to trouble shoot these things...

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