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My Ryobi 10" chop saw was stopping mid-cut. Why is it making an awful noise now?

The blade was stopping mid-cut on relatively soft wood -pine 2x4. Now, when the motor is on and the blade spins there's a grinding sound - the blade is not touching anything. Also when i stop pressing the power the blade keeps spinning with that grinding sound.

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The nut that holds the blade on May gave come loose. Or motor is shot

Posted on May 02, 2015

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I'm not sure if you have a chop saw or circular saw. Either way, it sounds like the nut and washer are not tight enough to hold the blade. If you have a circular saw clockwise will tighten the nut and washer onto the blade and hold it in place. Most chop saws are a left hand thread and then you would turn the nut counter clockwise to hold the blade tighter. The blade wobbles because it is not tight.

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Unplug the saw first. Then raise the guard and lower the blade onto a piece of wood to keep the blade from turning. Using a proper wrench, turn the nut in the direction the blade spins when cutting and remove the nut and blade.

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There's a normal adjustment process of squaring the blade to the table, page 19 of your manual. If the blade is not square to the table then it will bind. Here's the link for the manual, see page 19.


http://manuals.ryobitools.com/system/files/400/original/TS1342_942_eng.pdf?2011

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Ryobi rbs3080 motor stops when using


Try to install new blades. I've used 201 Haltbar blades in cutting pine before. Please get the right TPI too. But you may want to check the belt if it's slipping and try a slower feed rate.

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New SKILSAW 5995 used once to cut 1/4 inch plywood, no problem. Several months pass and I went to cut a pine board, the blade touched the wood and stopped. I recharged the batteries and tried again, two...


Did you fully charge both batteries before using them the first time? If not then they may not be able to hold a charge. It sounds to me like the batteries are either dead or defective as obviously the saw now doesn't have the juice to cut the board. If it's still under warranty take it back and get a replacement. Also, how powerful are the batteries? Even an 18V saw will struggle sometimes cutting a 2x4, they just don't have that much power. The plywood is easier to cut obviously.

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I'm a wife with a do-it-yourself knack. I recently purchased a Ryobi 10 in. BTS211 table saw. I find the manual complicated as far as how to actually use the device. Can you recommend where I can get...


I am a retired contractor.
I have a shop with a 10" table saw.
And I have opinions about safe operation.

For safety, turn saw off when making adjustments.

1) Raise blade:
There is a handle you turn to raise the blade.
If you are cutting 1/2" plywood, then set your blade at 3/4" or a bit more.
Keep blade low and away from hands.
Keep hands high and away from blade.

For 1-1/2" thick 2x4, I usually set the saw at 1" and run the board through, and then flip the board over and run it through again, taking 2 passes to make really thick cuts.

7c68409.jpg

2) Blade angle
There is a second handle you turn to set blade at an angle up to 45 degrees
Angle cannot be set if saw blade is fully raised >> lower blade to half way or less and experiment.
Angle cuts are difficult if wood is not perfectly flat and square, or too long or too short (boy is that helpful ... but cutting angles takes some experimentation)

3) Table Guide
You stand behind power saw to operate
The saw table guide is on left side of blade and clamps across the table
The guide markings show inches >>> these are usually approximate
To set guide for accuracy, measure distance from blade to saw guide, and then clamp guide down.

4) Push sticks push sticks push sticks and other safety stuff
Let me emphasize safety first last and always
A table saw will chop your fingers off in a blink
On the plus side, I hear it doesn't hurt. But OMG.
There is a very strong human instinct to reach in with your hand when working on stuff
Train your mind >> if the saw is running, do not lean or reach into the saw
If a board is stuck >>> turn off the saw and wait for full stop
If you wear baggy clothes of a loose shirt, the saw will grab you and pull you in too fast for you to react
Keep your clothes tight and your arms bare

Always use push sticks or push boards::
673c22b.jpg
Notice the saw blade is set low
Two push sticks are used to assist when cutting short board > one stick holds down the board ahead of blade, the other stick is pushing board through saw.
Keep your hands away from the blade no matter what.
The person stands behind and to the side of the board being cut.
The cut wood is supported by a catch table (in this case there are rollers)

Where to stand
Obviously you stand behind the saw to cut wood, and sometimes with long pieces, you can move in front and pull them through, and sometimes with large plywood you stand kinda back and to the side.

Why not stand directly behind a saw? Because saws throw stuff back.
When 'ripping' a board lengthwise as shown in photo above, if the saw catches the board just right, it will throw it backwards like a spear.

If a board 'binds' the saw causing saw blade to stop, then turn off saw, back up the board, and cut again.

Crosscut guide
The saw comes with a T-shaped guide that fits into a groove.
This is a 'push stick' >>> you use it to cross cut a board, and it lets you stand to the side of the saw blade so things wont flip back on you
When using the cross cut guide, remove the table guide that clamps across the saw, or push the table guide WAY back so pieces don't get caught in a bind and the blade flips up the piece and hits you in the face
Remember, the saw throws everything backwards

The saw is strong and fast, and you are best when traveling slow and without rush around your strong friend.

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Band saws pull to one side on straight cuts, it's a function of the blade torque. My 14" saw pulls to the right. There's nothing you can do to stop this, you have to be aware of it so you account for it on free cuts and know to put your fence on that side so the wood pulls into the fence instead of away from it. Squaring the blade to the table is easier. Do not go by the tilt angle guide. First make absoutely sure all of your blade guides and bearings are properly alligned so they aren't pushing the blade out of line. Use a square to get it close then: using a 4" x 4" block of wood, make a light cut in the wood only deep enough to mark the wood from top to bottom. Turn the block over 180 and try to make a cut in the previous cut mark. If the cuts line up you're there. If you get a V or X you have to make adjustments to the table making sure you tighten the trunion locks tight. I had one of these, it's not a high end saw so don't expect a lot from it.

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It sounds like the blade is not going through the guides properly if the blade is being pushed away from the wood.

Your blade is facing and moving the right direction, I am assuming.

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1 Answer

Grinder question


Use a pencil and straight edge to mark the cutting line on the wood. Place the wood on the saw table and line the mark up with the saw. Place the mark on the right side of the blade to ensure proper cutting. Plug the saw in and put on your safety goggles. Support the wood on the work surface with your left hand, placing it far from the saw blade. Place your right hand on the handle, and push the trigger to start the saw. Move the saw blade down onto the wood. Put constant pressure on the handle to slowly move the blade through the wood. Release the trigger and raise the blade once the cut is complete. Make diagonal cuts in the same manner, by marking the wood and lining the mark up just to the right of the saw blade. Continue as you would for a straight cut. Remove the wood from the saw. Unplug the chop saw and dust the sawdust off. Remove the dust bag from the back and empty it. Vacuum any remaining dust off of the saw.

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