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Ford f 350 transmission wont slide back in place its about an inch away from motor it wont mount back in place

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Hi Jorge:
If the starter is still on the motor, the starter gears may not be engaging on the ring gear on the outside of the flywheel.
Also, there will be splines on the transmission shaft that have to line up with the ones on the inside of the clutch or torque converter plate.
Try rotating the transmission or the engine drive shaft back and forth to help line the pieces up so they can slide together.

Posted on May 02, 2015

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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How to remove gearbox


Instructions
    • 1 Open the hood and disconnect the battery ground cable. Set it aside, ensuring that it does not touch metal. Still working in the engine compartment, remove the two upper converter housing-to-engine bolts. Unplug the neutral safety switch wiring harness, located at the back of the engine compartment, at its inline connector.
    • 2 Remove the transmission fluid filler tube and dipstick using the appropriate socket or wrench. The bolt is attached to the cylinder head. Jack up the van using the floor jack and support it with the jack stands.
    • 3 Slide the drain pan under the transmission pan. Loosen the bolts (do not remove them yet), starting at the back of the pan and working your way toward the front. The pan will tip as the bolts are loosened, allowing the fluid to drain into the pan. Keep loosening the bolts until the fluid no longer spills out of the pan. Remove the bolts and the pan, taking care to keep it over the drain pan, as not all the transmission fluid will drain out. Reinstall the pan with two bolts on the back of the pan to temporarily hold it in place.
    • 4 Push the drain pan forward, toward the converter. Remove the converter drain plug access cover from the bottom of the converter housing, using the appropriate socket. Remove the converter nuts that attach the converter to the flexplate. You will only be able to remove a couple of nuts at a time, so place a wrench on the crankshaft pulley bolt and turn the crankshaft a few inches. This will turn the converter so that you can access more bolts. Repeat until you get all the converter-to-flexplate bolts out. Look for the converter drain plug as you are removing the nuts. Remove the drain plug to allow the converter to drain. Reinstall the drain bolt.
    • 5 Disconnect the driveshaft at the axle using the appropriate sockets. Move the drain pan under the extension housing. Slide the driveshaft toward the rear of the E-350 van and away from the transmission. Install the seal installation tool in the extension housing to keep all the fluid from leaking out.
    • 6 Disconnect the speedometer cable from the extension housing on the transmission by unscrewing it. Disconnect the linkage rods from the levers on the transmission using the appropriate socket or screwdriver.
    • 7 Disconnect the oil cooler lines from the transmission using the appropriate line wrench. Loosen the clamp on the vacuum diaphragm using the appropriate screwdriver or socket, depending on the type of clamp used. Pull the vacuum line off. Remove the vacuum line-retaining clip.
    • 8 Loosen the nut for the cable on the starter. Remove the cable, then put the nut back on the stud. Remove the three starter bolts, then pull the starter off the engine. Disconnect the downshift linkage and manual cables using the appropriate sockets or screwdriver. Remove the two bolts that attach the rear engine mount and insulator. Remove the six bolts that hold the crossmember on the side rails.
    • 9 Slide the jack under the transmission and jack it up enough to raise the transmission so you can pull the crossmember out. Pull the crossmember out. Secure the transmission to the jack (or two jacks, if you need to use two jacks) using the chain. Remove the rest of the bolts in the converter housing. Pull the transmission out from under the E-350 van.


Read more: http://www.ehow.com/how_7388894_remove-e_350-van_s-transmission.html#ixzz2zfRH6rLn

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Window wont go all the way up


one of 2 problems , either slide not inline anymore , or cable ready to break

Mar 25, 2013 | Cars & Trucks

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94 gmc 1500 transmission mount broken??


Let me get this clear.. you did not remove the cross member to drop the pan?? WHY?.. If you broke the bolt loose that is made into the transmission mount.. you need to be able to tighten the mount somehow.. if you can't tighten the mount, yes, you need to replace the mount . NEXT TIME - Use a jack stand under the front of the drive shaft to hold up the transmission.. this will make the job easier!!

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1 Answer

Cant get the oil pan off a 302


You have to jack the engine up after removing the motor mount bolts on each side. Then once you have the engine jacked up a few inches, slide a piece of wood (2x4) in between the upper and lower parts of the motor mounts on each side. This will keep the engine elevated enough for you to drop the oil pan and replace the gasket. Then, just put all the bolts back in in the proper torque sequence, torque them all to spec,remove the wooden blocks from the motor mounts, slowly lower the engine back down and put the motor mount bolts back in.

Mar 16, 2011 | 1993 Ford F150 SuperCab

1 Answer

Where is the starter located on 2002 intrepid


Underneath the car. somewhere near where the engine and transmission hook up.

Removal & Installation
2.7L Engine

1. Remove or disconnect the following:

Negative battery cable from the remote ground post

Battery feed and posi-lock connectors

Nuts from the catalyst support bracket and mount

Starter heat shield

3 starter-to-engine/transaxle bolts

Starter by rotating it toward the engine and sliding it rearward between the catalyst and the engine mount


To install:

1. Install or connect the following:

Starter by sliding it forward between the catalyst and the engine mount and rotating it away from the engine

Starter and torque the 3 starter-to-engine/transaxle bolts to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm)

Starter heat shield

Nuts to the catalyst support bracket and mount

Positive battery cable and torque the nut to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm)

Posi-lock connectors

Negative battery cable to the remote ground post





3.2L & 3.5L Engines

1. Remove or disconnect the following:

Negative battery cable from the remote ground post

Starter-to-engine/transaxle nut and bolts

Positive battery feed wire from the starter

Starter and position it to gain access to the posi-lock connector



2. Place a support under the engine and slightly relieve the pressure from the left engine mount.

3. Remove the 3 left engine mount-to-engine bolts.

4. Slightly, raise the engine to provide more room.

5. Remove the starter by sliding it rearward between the catalyst and the engine mount.

6. Remove the posi-lock connector.

Click image to see an enlarged view

Fig. Removal and installation of the starter motor



To install:

1. Install or connect the following:

Posi-lock connector

Starter by sliding it forward between the catalyst and the engine mount



2. Slightly, lower the engine.

3 left engine mount-to-engine bolts

Positive battery feed wire to the starter and torque the nut to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm)

Starter and torque the starter-to-engine/transaxle bolts to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm)

Negative battery cable to the remote ground post


Hope this help (remember rated and comment this).

Mar 27, 2010 | 2002 Dodge Intrepid

1 Answer

I need directions for replacing the motor coupler on a kitchenaid washer


See the following for how to remove the cabinet, pump, motor and motor mounting plate to inspect and replace the motor coupler.


http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=135&osCsid=c72212e477ba171564b9fdddc85a3649


If the coupler looks damaged, it's a relatively easy fix.

Pry the plastic pieces from the motor and transmission. Some people use a claw hammer but I've found that using a small (6 inch) pry bar works well.

Carefully fit the plastic pieces over the motor and transmission shafts and press them in place (Use a 1/2" of larger socket to put pressure equally around the pieces.

Put the rubber piece on the transmission plastic piece.

Replace the motor mounting plate.

Carefully line up the plastic prongs on the motor based plastic piece to the three un-used holes in the rubber piece. If they don't line up right, the coupler could be damaged.

Mount the motor, don't forget the two screws, put the pump back on the motor and use its' clips.

Put the cabinet back on, don't forget to plug the lid switch back in and re-mount the console.

Dec 01, 2009 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

MODLE 80 WONT AGATATE OR SPIN


First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:


http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/getModel!retrieve.pd?pop=true&modelNumber=110.29852991

Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive washers use a "Motor Coupler" between the motor and transmission.

It's used as a fail safe device and consists of three parts.

Two of the parts are the same, plastic units with three prongs that fit on one of the motor output shafts and the other on the transmission input shaft. Between them is a rubber piece with six holes.

The power from the motor is transmitted through the rubber piece to the transmission.

The other shaft on the motor directly drives the pump.

If the motor coupler is broken, or worn, the motor may not be able to send full power to the transmission for agitating or spinning.

See the following for how to remove the cabinet, pump, motor and motor mounting plate to inspect and replace the motor coupler.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

If the coupler looks damaged, it's a relatively easy fix.

Pry the plastic pieces from the motor and transmission. Some people use a claw hammer but I've found that using a small (6 inch) pry bar works well.

Carefully fit the plastic pieces over the motor and transmission shafts and press them in place (Use a 1/2" of larger socket to put pressure equally around the pieces.

Put the rubber piece on the transmission plastic piece.

Replace the motor mounting plate.

Carefully line up the plastic prongs on the motor based plastic piece to the three un-used holes in the rubber piece. If they don't line up right, the coupler could be damaged.

Mount the motor, don't forget the two screws, put the pump back on the motor and use its' clips.

Put the cabinet back on, don't forget to plug the lid switch back in and re-mount the console.

Nov 03, 2009 | Kenmore Washing Machines

1 Answer

Kenmore Elite washer wont spin


First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/getModel!retrieve.pd?pop=true&modelNumber=110.20932992

See the section on the motor and transmission.

Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive washers use a "Motor Coupler" between the motor and transmission.

It's used as a fail safe device and consists of three parts.

Two of the parts are the same, plastic units with three prongs that fit on one of the motor output shafts and the other on the transmission input shaft.

Between them is a rubber piece with six holes. The power from the motor is transmitted through the rubber piece to the transmission.

If the motor coupler is broken, or worn, the motor may not be able to send full power to the transmission for agitating or spinning. This may be the baseball in spokes sound (the plastic prongs clicking together.

See the following for how to remove the cabinet, pump, motor and motor mounting plate to inspect and replace the motor coupler.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

If the coupler looks damaged, it's a relatively easy fix.

Pry the plastic pieces from the motor and transmission. Some people use a claw hammer but I've found that using a small (6 inch) pry bar works well.

Carefully fit the plastic pieces over the motor and transmission shafts and press them in place (Use a 1/2" of larger socket to put pressure equally around the pieces.

Put the rubber piece on the transmission plastic piece.

Replace the motor mounting plate.

Carefully line up the plastic prongs on the motor based plastic piece to the three un-used holes in the rubber piece. If they don't line up right, the coupler could be damaged.

Mount the motor, don't forget the two screws, put the pump back on the motor and use its' clips.

Put the cabinet back on, don't forget to plug the lid switch back in and re-mount the console.

Oct 14, 2009 | Kenmore Washing Machines

1 Answer

BMW 328i Starter how to replaice


1999 BMW 328I 2.8L EFI DOHC 6cyl

Starter - Removal & Installation

The starter motor on some models is very difficult to see from the top of engine compartment as it is covered by the intake manifold. On these models, without removing the intake manifold, the starter motor must be removed from underneath the vehicle. Because the starter motor mounting bolts are not easy to access, a long extension with a universal joint mounted on a proper sized socket could be used. A three foot transmission extension is commercially available from tool vendors that has a 3 / 8 inch drive of the driven end and 1 / 2 inch drive on the drive end. If used with a non-binding impact universal joint and a proper fitting impact socket, the starter motor fasteners can be removed from underneath the vehicle.
Once the starter motor fasteners are removed, the starter motor may have to be moved side-to-side several times to loosen the dowel pin if it has corroded in place.

NOTE When the battery is disconnected, the radio code, on-board computer and clock settings will be lost. The radio code should be obtained before disconnecting the battery or radio. Once the battery has been reconnected, the radio will not function unless the code is keyed in.
Starter motor electrical terminal fastener torque specifications for all models:
M5 terminal fasteners: 44 inch lbs. (5 Nm)
M6 terminal fasteners: 53 inch lbs. (6 Nm)
M8 terminal fasteners: 115 inch lbs. (13 Nm)
Starter motor mounting fasteners:
Hex head bolts: 36 ft. lbs. (49 Nm)
Torx bolts: 32 ft. lbs. (43 Nm) Starter motor electrical terminal fastener torque specifications for all models:
M5 terminal fasteners: 44 inch lbs. (5 Nm)
M6 terminal fasteners: 53 inch lbs. (6 Nm)
M8 terminal fasteners: 115 inch lbs. (13 Nm) Starter motor mounting fasteners:
Hex head bolts: 36 ft. lbs. (49 Nm)
Torx bolts: 32 ft. lbs. (43 Nm) E36 6-Cylinder Engines
Automatic Transmission Models
  1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions section.
  2. Set the ignition switch to the OFF position.
  3. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  4. Remove the climate control air intake duct at the rear of the engine compartment as follows:
    1. Release the grille clips at the rear and lift the grille upward from the rubber seal, then remove the seal.
    2. Remove the two self tapping Phillips screws from inside the duct to release the electrical harness housing.
    3. Press the electrical housing downward to expose and remove the two hex head self tapping screws on each side of the duct and lift the duct up and out of the engine compartment.
  5. Remove the intake manifold trim and valve cover trim covers.
  6. Disconnect the ignition coil electrical connectors and ground straps, label for reinstallation and place aside.
  7. Remove the two fasteners that secure the fuel injection electrical connector harness to the rail. Remove the harness and carefully place aside toward the back of the engine compartment behind the right side strut tower.
  8. Remove the intake manifold.
  9. Remove the electrical leads from the starter motor and place aside.
  10. Remove the starter motor mounting fasteners at the transmission bell housing, then remove the two mounting nuts at the L-shaped mounting bracket.
  11. Loosen the L-shaped bracket to engine block mounting bolt slightly, then remove the bolt while supporting the starter motor.
  12. Remove the bracket, then lift the starter motor upward away from the engine.
  13. Visually inspect the starter pinion and ring gears for any signs of damage.
  14. Installation is in reverse order of removal.
Manual Transmission Models
  1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions section.
  2. Set the ignition switch to the OFF position.
  3. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  4. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
  5. Remove the fasteners for the reinforcement mounted between the frame rails just behind the rear lower control arm bushing brackets. Mark the bar-s direction for proper reinstallation and remove the bar.
  6. Remove the fuel line cover located near the left side rear lower control arm bushing bracket.
  7. Release the fuel lines and reverse light wiring from their routing brackets.
  8. Note the routing of the starter motor electrical wires, remove the wire mounting nuts, and place the wires aside.
  9. Remove the top and bottom starter motor to engine-transmission mounting fasteners.
  10. Remove the two mounting nuts at the L-shaped mounting bracket.
  11. Loosen the L-shaped bracket to engine block mounting bolt slightly, then remove the bolt while supporting the starter motor.
  12. Remove the bracket and carefully lower the starter motor downward away from the engine.
  13. Visually inspect the starter pinion and ring gears for any signs of damage.
  14. Installation is in reverse order of removal.

Fig. A view of the starter motor mounting fasteners and dowel pin. The mounting bolts are threaded into the starter motor

cd45991.jpg

Fig. The starter motor mounting bolts are a different size than the transmission-to-engine mounting bolts

2cbfa11.jpg

I hope help you with this (rated this help) Good luck.

Sep 22, 2009 | 1999 BMW 328 Series

1 Answer

Trying to drop the oil pan out of my 1994 Ford F-150 (4.9L) to replace the gasket. Ive taken out the motor mounts and jacked the engine almost high enough to get the oil pan out and I am wondering if i...


done this on several i-6 f-150s. slide back or remove transmission, remove motor mount bolts from frame(not motor), jack motor up as far as possible without damaging egr valve or wiper motor when they hit, shim under motor mounts so that when you drop the jack the motor does not come back down any(the motor is well balanced on the mounts, it will not fall out of the truck like a v8 will), then remove the oil pan. you May have to remove the pickup tube(usually not), and you May have to rotate the crankshaft so that the lobes clear the oil pan. this is a common problem with these trucks due to the size of the oil pan(Huge), and the minimum pan to crossmember clearance

Jul 19, 2008 | Ford F-150 Cars & Trucks

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