Question about LG Refrigerators
Fridge freezing up- and no fan or air circulation:
AT TIMES The fan usually stops working due to ice obstruction when the defrost terminator has gone out and u get ice build up? u can check the terminator with a multi meter for continuity but do not check at room temperature. stick the terminator in cup of ice water for 20 minutes then check it for continuity, should be closed when cold and open at room temperature.
May also need to check the defrost timer, The defrost timer is usually found behind the front grill "toe kick" of the refrigerator. Or in the fridge compartment near middle top section.
u can get by and test manually by placing a small screw driver into the tiny slot or hole underneath the timer and turn slowly clockwise till u hear 1 click. this will engage ur defrost cycle in about 15 minutes u should be able to come back and feel the heat in freezer as it melts the ice providing ur terminator is not bad?
Another way to test it is with a multi meter. Remove timer it from fridge and you will see 4 prongs numbered 2,1,4,3 in that order. Place ur meter prong on prong 1 & 3 (if your fridge has a capacitor wired in series with the windings, then u check for micro fares rather than OHMS) If u cannot confirm this test, still try the next.
Take ur meter prong and connect to prong 1 & 4, it should read resistance or ohms ( closed) now remove prongs and place on prong 1 & 2, this should now read infinity or open (no ohms) now take a small screwdriver place it in the tiny hole or slot under the timer. Turn it clockwise slowly till u hear 1 click. Now ur 1& 2 should read closed ( showing ohms or resistance) now place meter prongs on 1 & 4 and you it should now show open ( or no resistance - no ohms) this is how u know ur timer is good, Remember when testing for ohms ADJUST meter to use a high ohms rating in the thousands as the resistance is very high in OHMS. And adjusting to low ohms rating may give a false reading or not show the proper resistance..
Another item to check with a meter is the heating element itself. Located under the evaporator coils. It should show continuity or resistance OHMS WHEN TESTED AT BOTH ENDS OF THE PRONGS .
Lastly check the cold control thermostat with a meter for both OHMS and volts ( VOLTS is a live test with fridge plugged in so be careful) It must show 110 volts. An open or thermostat that reads infinity will not allow the proper cooling and defrosting cycles to operate and may in fact stop anything from happening as if there is no power to the unit?
ALSO CHECK THE AIR FLOW VENT SYSTEM and THERMISTORS At times it can get stuck to far closed or open. Some units feature a digital electric adjusting vent system while others are manually set. Check for any ice build up or other obstruction in the vent damper, see if u can manually open or close it. Some times when u have the settings set to the highest it closes off one area while allowing to much cold air flow to the other area!
THERMISTORS in the freezer and fridge section for continuity OHMS and for amount of OHMS current being put out. In most models around 1300 ( give or take 150 ohms) ohms is required
God is so good: so this is why I give free advice so please thank him not me.
Posted on May 07, 2015
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Sounds like thatyou refrigerator has leaked out the refrigerant. If you have a condenser i.e. cage on the back , place your hand over it and see if it is warm if it is not then if deffinaltey the gas.
this is not a diy job and you will need an engineer with relevant qualifications..
hope this helps
cheers wash doctor
Posted on Aug 25, 2008
Sounds like your compressor is not starting due to a faulty "starter PTC" a.k.a. start relay. Or a faulty compressor. The buzzing noise you hear is the compressor trying to start. When it's windings overheat, an internal cut-off switch "clicks" off until it cool down.
Then the cycle repeats.
Posted on Feb 27, 2010
Clean the drain pan and drain line in the back of the freezer section
underneath the evaporator coil. (hint: use turkey baster with hot water)
Make sure water drains when you
pour it in. If it doesn't - also clean drain tube on the back of the
unit behind the cover. When done - put the tube exactly where it was.
Good luck! :)
First Choice Appliance
Posted on Jun 03, 2010
Tips for a great answer:
Nov 30, 2012 | Refrigerators
Mar 27, 2011 | LG Refrigerators
Jul 22, 2010 | Hotpoint RLA80 Refrigerator
Mar 18, 2010 | LG LRTBC1825T Top Freezer Refrigerator
Nov 10, 2009 | LG LFX25960ST Stainless Steel French Door...
May 27, 2009 | Refrigerators
Mar 02, 2009 | LG LFD25860
Nov 28, 2008 | Refrigerators
Sep 28, 2017 | LG Refrigerators
Sep 20, 2017 | LG Refrigerators
124 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!