Question about Belling Ovens

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My oven keeps cutting out (fan stops and heating) but it isn't at the temperature selected on the control knob. Sometimes it goes up to temp, sometimes it stops a LOT lower.

The problem is, the fan stops running too... which makes me think it cant be just the thermostat as my old oven, the fan still ran even when it was up to temp. Both heating element and fan stop on this one. To help diagnose there is a video on youtube... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UddxvIn7xRo&feature=youtu.be

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  • Jason McBurnie
    Jason McBurnie May 01, 2015

    I have swapped top oven and lower oven thermostats around, same issue.

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  • Belling Master
  • 5,323 Answers

Oven comes on and off intermittently or heats very little:

If the timer feature is activating and you have not touched the timer button at all, this would have to be a failed Electronic Oven Control. The timer button is either shorting at times or closing on its own from heat or moisture. The Electronic Oven Control would need to be replaced to repair the problem.

Or Why does it take the oven so long to bake?
When the food is taking way too long to bake, it's probably a weak bake ignitor. Replacing the ignitor usually fixes this problem, but you probably want to verify that the ignitor is the problem before replacing it.

Sometimes the oven thermostat or oven sensor can be calibrated wrong, or it may be faulty. If your particular range has an oven that uses an electronic thermostat, and the oven temperature is off by tens of degrees, you probably have to replace it.
On most units that have a mechanical thermostat, you can actually remove the thermostat knob, and adjust the knob to more accurately represent the actual setting of the thermostat. On many models, there's a screw on the back of the knob with a small calibration plate or ring. You can loosen this screw and adjust the calibration plate. Remember to tighten the screw again. If yours isn't adjustable, and the temperature is off by a large amount, you should just replace the thermostat.

Or Oven safety valve needs to be checked with multi meter ohms / voltage

ALSO Test the Burner Heating Element
The stove's burner heating element is a coil of metal sheathed in an insulator. Electrical current travels through the element. Resistance to the passing of electrical current causes the element to heat up. A precise temperature cannot be set for a burner, instead it is turned on and off repeatedly by the control to the achieve an average temperature. When it is set to a low temperature, the element is cycled on and off more frequently. For high temperatures, the heating element is energized longer with fewer on and off cycles. Some burners have two elements, with the second only being used only for high heat settings.
Before testing the heating element, unplug the appliance or shut off the power at thefuseboxorbreaker panelto avoid an electrical shock hazard.
When a burner does not heat at all, or only heats up to a lower than expected temperature, the problem is likely to be with the heating element, the temperature control switch, or the wiring. If it only heats at the highest temperature, the problem is with the control or an electrical short, not the burner. If the burner works only intermittently, the problem is likely in the wiring or connectors. To test the heating element, try the following steps.
First, disconnect the heating element from the stovetop. In most cases, this is done by lifting up the burner on the side opposite of the terminals (the part of the burner that disappears under the stovetop). Remove the decorative ring.
Inspect the style of connection. If the burner element has visible blades that fit into the receptacle block, pinch the block with one hand, and pull the heating element free with your other hand. If the terminal block clamps over the element, the housing must be removed and the burner wires disconnected. Unsnap the metal piece or remove the screw that secures the receptacle block and then disconnect the element.
Inspect the heating element. If you find bubbles, warping, or damage to the insulation sheath, the burner must be replaced. If the terminals are dirty or corroded, this can cause poor temperature control, intermittent problems or complete failure to heat. Clean the terminals with steel wool or very fine sand paper to restore good conductivity.
Test theresistanceof the heating element using amulti meter. Set the multi meter to the ohms setting X1 and touch one probe to each of the terminals. A normal reading is typically somewhere between 20 and 120 ohms. The exact reading differs by manufacturer and mode. If the meter reads infinite resistance or the other extreme of the scale, zero resistance, then the element is damaged and should be replaced. If the measured resistance differs significantly from the expected range, the element is probably bad, but if possible, determine from the manufacturer what the actual resistance should be.
To test for a grounded or shorted element, touch one probe to the surface of the burner and the other probe to each terminal in turn. If you get continuity at any time, the heating element is defective and should be replaced.
The reason for my free advice is GOD is good!

Posted on May 03, 2015

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My oven and grill and thermostat light are not working but fan is running. Any ideas?


No make or model try this remove the temperature sensor ohm it out should be around 1080 at room temp in WP products if the sensor is open or shorted the control locks out the unit and runs the cooling fan thinking the unit has over heated hopes this helps

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I have a Jenn Air JJW9830DDP double oven electric, and the temperature in the oven is about 100' less than what it reads on the display. I tested the temp sensor and it ready 1073 ohms. Any s


Well, your temp sensors can still be bad. If not, there's always a new control board you buy!

However, I wouldn't drink water from that oasis without making ABSOLUTELY sure I'm not seeing a mirage.

The only common denominators between your upper and lower oven temp readings is the firmware and the oven thermometer you are using to visually check the temps.
What type of thermometer are you using to check your oven temperatures with?
If it's not a digital thermometer used specifically for testing ovens, you might just be leading leading yourself astray.
You need a calibrated thermometer. If I don't have a calibrated digital thermometer on me, I use two or three oven thermometers (the dial type) and average the readings.
It's the only way to be as close as possible with a digital probe.

If you have thoroughly verified that your oven is in fact not reading the correct temperature, then you can adjust it +/- 35 degrees F via your oven's control panel.
To adjust the oven temperature:
1 - Press Setup pad.
2 - Select the down arrow to scroll to the next screen.
3 - Select Temp Adjust using the Quickset pads.
4 - Select upper or lower oven (select models).
-"Set temperature offset using the Upper Set Knob" is displayed.
5 - Enter the desired temperature change using the Set knob.
The temperature can be increased or decreased up to 35 degrees.
The temp. change is displayed at the top of the window.
6 - Press the Set knob to accept the change.

Now, if you are still worried about the temp. reading being off, replace both the upper and lower temp sensors. That's all you can do besides replace the main board.

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1 Answer

Simpson Harmony Nova electric oven heating problems (oven heats but no fan and light)


The Fan has ,in most cases, two functions - to maintain the oven temp and to clear any condensate or smoke coming from items being cooked. If your oven is over heating it could be the thermostat sensor faulty and giving a faulty reading to the fan. If you set you oven at 350F then sensors control the heat by kicking the heating elements off and in some models and makes the fan aids cool down. Make sure it is at a temperature that would trigger the fan to cool it down. It mostly relies on the regulation of the heating elements to control the temp. Only if it were to get hotter than the elements kicking off can control should the fan kick on. Not being at the site and actually seeing the stove it is hard to determine but if the fan is working every where else it should work when the oven is heating. Again check and see if there is a seperate sensor that monitors the temp of the over and triggers the fan. Not much help but that's where I would look first. Hope this was of some help.
Col. Dana Gillespie

May 11, 2014 | Ovens

1 Answer

Temperature control


Hi there:
You directed this question at me, but unfortunately this isn't my expertise and I am unable to provide you with a real solution at this time.

Hopefully one of other experts will be able to provide you with a real solution.

Thank you for using FixYa.

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1 Answer

Looking for a manual for Whirlpool BS0801/WH oven


I have a paper copy of the manual - if you need to know anything more than the information below post a more specific question.

The function symbols on Knob F, clockwise from the top, are as follows:
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  • Fan + Drip Symbol = Lamp + Fan, but no Heating - this is for defrosting.
  • Fan inside a Circle symbol = Lamp + Fan + Oven Heating - this is the normal cooking position. The temperature of the oven is set on the Temperature Knob.
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The red indicator light only comes on when the Oven is heating (not the Grill), and goes off when the oven has reached it's set temperature.

The bulb is 25W 230V Type E-14 300 Degree C.

The oven draws a maximum of 2300W so requires a 10A supply.

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Ge oven turns off by itself, and sometimes gives


F2 Oven temp exceeds 590 w/ unlocked door High resistance or interference in oven temperature sensor. Replace oven temperature sensor F2
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· Control senses oven temperature above 650 degrees F with the door circuit in the unlock mode.
· Control senses oven temperature above 935 degrees F with the door in the locked mode.
· Stalled cooling fan or airflow problem. · Look for welded relay contacts. (Heating elements on in off mode).
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· Look for high resistance in the oven temperature sensor circuit due to high contact resistance (poor terminal crimp, deformed terminals, loose connection) or intermittent solder joint on control or intermittent oven temperature sensor.
· Look for electrical noise interference in the oven temperature sensor circuit (Ham radio, cordless phone, etc.).

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If it is a fan forced oven, the element is round in shape and goes around the fan blade on the back wall of oven.
To replace: Turn off power!!
-Remove side racks from oven, then remove rear panel.
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-You need to remove oven from cavity, then remove rear outer panel.
-You can now access element- it will be held in place by 2 small nuts either side of element wiring connections. Disconnect element wires, unscrew nuts. Element is now removed!
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