Question about KitchenAid KHMS155LSS 1000 Watts Microwave Oven
My microwave works fine for a couple minutes, but then stops heating. Everything else seems to be operating fine (e.g. lights, timer, rotating plate). However, the microwave's normal buzz/hum stops after a minute or two and it stops heating. If I cancel the job and wait at least 5 minutes or so, it will do the same thing. It's almost like the microwave thinks it's overheating and shuts off the heating element until it cools back down. I have already replaced the magnetron and the diode, and the same problem continues. Could it be some sort of thermostat or something else?
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: KitchenAid KCMC155J
Sounds like a classic bad door switch or switch holder. If you or a friend decide to work on it, we have *critical* safety info, info on door switch testing and replacement, and oven disassembly info at our site, which is linked at our listing here on FixYa: http://tinyurl.com/yzjozk You can find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your base model number (without the suffix) here: http://tinyurl.com/gv383
Posted on Mar 11, 2007
SOURCE: Stopped heating food
usually caused by either a bad door switch, a loose door switch mount
(which are pretty simple problems to fix) or occasionally a problem on
the control panel.
Door switch or mount trouble is usually caused by slamming the door or by opening the door while it's cooking without hitting the Stop pad first.
There are plastic mounts inside the microwave which hold the door switches and onto which the door latches lock when you close the door.
The screws on these mounts may be loose. If they get too loose, the switches will not be activated properly.
Sometimes it's a broken tab on the switch holder, allowing the switch to rotate just out of position. This tab can be hard to see, since it is under the bottom edge of the switch.
One test that sometimes helps is to gently lift up (and/or push down) on the door or handle as you try to start it. If it works or tries to work, then it's a door switch mount or door alignment issue.
If you or someone you know decide to look into it, we have critical information on safety, disassembly and door switches at our site, and our link is at our listing here onFixYa:.
You can find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts for many brands by entering your full model number here.
There should also be a "mini-manual" hidden inside the unit behind the control panel or hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is very helpful when troubleshooting & testing.
If you don't find yours, or if you want to look at it without disassembling the oven, you may be able to download it here.
If you only need a switch, you can order a universal type here for $5 postpaid.
If you think the problem is on the control panel, we repair these nationwide by mail for $39.95 postpaid in most cases in about a week or so.
We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.
Posted on Jan 01, 2009
SOURCE: Microwave hums
Microwave not heating problems when the timer/controller board appears to function properly, are related to the following components -
Posted on Jan 24, 2009
I would have started with the diode and capacitor (i.e the least expense) but you can check the diode by removing the input wire and doing a continuity check in BOTH directions. In other words check it then reverse the leads and check it again. It should only read in ONE direction. If it reads continuity in both directions or is open in both directions it is bad and must be replaced. If the diode check out fine then by all means check the capacitor. Just respect the fact it is a large capacitor and can really ruin your day if it is good and has a full charge. (Been there done that!) Take a screwdriver and ground across the terminals several times then note the position of the wires on the capacitor and remove the wires from ONE terminal set. Take your meter still on Ohms ( old simpson type dial meter for this test) and place it on the capacitors 2 terminals. Then rapidly reverse the leads and you should see a momentary jump on the meter then fall off. No jump when you repeatedly reverse the leads then the capacitor is bad. This should solve your problem unless there is a relay on the control board that controls the magnetron power.
Posted on Jan 16, 2010
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