Question about Fisher Paykel EcoSmart GWL15

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Can only stop fault code 49 by lid lock on, hitting advance, or unplugging machine. Cannot control machine with power button.

Have removed cover and looked at valves for fault code 49. Looks brand new in there. Cannot enter diagnostic mode. Machine entered fault code 49 at time of incident and have not been able to reprogram because cannot enter diagnostic mode.

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Washing Machine stopped through cycle and now will not turn on

Unplug!!! NOW! I drained the water using a common garden hose, fill the hose with water and have some device turning it off like a trigger nozzle on the low end. Detach from the supply and put the supply end in the center of the tub under the softener dispenser. take the trigger nozzle off and watch the water drain without cups and buckets. Then wring out the clothes and put them aside, use the hose trick again for remaining water. Now get under the washer and detach and reattach the brown and white lead input to the rinse cycle motor. She is made in France so be gentle. Plug the machine in and set the machine down and turn it on. Push the >> button until you reach the spin cycle if it starts you have fixed it!! Put the clothes back in open a bottle of wine and try again.

Posted on Nov 05, 2007

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ngfam1
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SOURCE: Washer won't automatically fill with

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Posted on Aug 26, 2008

  • 713 Answers

SOURCE: I have the Fisher & Paykel EcoSmart GWL15

Hi just read your posting.Now from the information in your posting the lights that are lit,starting from left to right are the 3rd, the 6th and the 8th,is this correct.If it is correct then the fault on machine is called PUMP BLOCK ERROR.Now 1st thing to do is to bail some of the water by hand with a small pot or bucket, enough to lean the machine back so you can look under the machine.When you are able to look under the machine look to the front right and you should see a black fan.This is your pump.Turn the fan clockwise and anticlockwise a few times to loosen the pump.The fan should turn freely.Then put the machine back upright and select a spin cycle.The machine should start draining.Please reply back on how you went or if you have the newer style of pump or if the machine stills does not drain.

Posted on Sep 07, 2010

Jahn27
  • 1554 Answers

SOURCE: Machine stopped working- lights 3,4

The 3 LEDs (3,4, and 8 from left to right) lit indicates fault code 49 which means the motor controller module detected a fault in the cold water proportional valve. Raise the console up and make sure the wire connection between the cold water proportional valve is intact. Reseat the connection several times to ensure a snug fit connection. Replace the valve if the connection is intact and snug fit.

Let us know if you need further advice. You don't have to accept or rate this solution in order to post comments or information. But accepting a solution will not stop you from communicating with the expert. You can still communicate with the expert as long as you need assistance regarding the issue stated herein.

Posted on Jan 22, 2011

richroth
  • 9472 Answers

SOURCE: l was doing the clean

That's a water valve fault. Check and make sure that you have plugged the hot and cold water valve connectors from the controller all the way in tight on the water valves. Sometimes people break off the little lock tabs on the valves when installing a control and this will cause a poor connection.

Posted on Feb 15, 2011

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I have a whirlpool cabrio and the lid will not lock the light keeps flashing and it keeps making the lock clicking sound


BEFORE ASSUMING THE LID SWITCH NEEDS REPLACEMENT TEST WITH A METER, BUT FIRST TRY TO RESET CONTROL BOARD EVEN RUNNING A DIAGNOSTIC TEST WILL REVEAL THE SOURCE OF THE ERROR.. 1. Be sure the washer is in standby mode (plugged in with all indicators off; or with only the Clothes Clean or Done indicator on). 2. Select any one button (except POWER, START, STOP, and PAUSE/CANCEL) and follow the steps below, using the same button: a. Press/hold 3 seconds. b. Release for 3 seconds. c. Press/hold 3 seconds. d. Release for 3 seconds. e. Press/hold 3 seconds. ? If this test mode has been entered successfully, all indicators on the console are illuminated for 5 seconds with 88 showing in the Estimated Time Remaining two-digit display. ? If indicators do not display as described above, the press/hold/release procedure above may not have been performed within the time frame necessary for successful entry. Repeat step 2 to ensure this was not the cause. If still unsuccessful, see Diagnostic: Unsuccessful Entry, at right. 3. The test sequence continues by checking for saved fault codes: ? If there are saved fault codes, see Diagnostic: Saved Fault Codes, page 2. ? If there are no saved fault codes, all indicators on the console will momentarily turn off, then turn back on with 88 displayed. After 5 seconds, the Automatic test, below, begins.

http://www.applianceaid.com/pdf/Whirlpool-Cabrio-Waher-WTW6600SB3-Tech-Sheet-W10026634.pdf

TEST #8 Lid Lock Perform the following checks if washer fails to lock (or unlock). 1. Perform Manual: Lid Switch and Manual: Lid Lock tests on page 2. 2. Remove the console to access the machine/motor control assembly. See Accessing & Removing the Electronic Assemblies, at right. 3. Visually check that the P12 connector is inserted all the way into the machine/motor control. ? If visual check passes, go to step 4. ? If visual check fails, reconnect P4 and repeat step 1. 4. Check the lid lock motor winding and switches by removing P12 from the machine/motor control and checking the resistance values shown in the following Lid Lock Resistance table:
TO RESET TURN KNOB 1 FULL TURN COUNTERCLOCKWISE, THEN 3 TURNS OR CLICKS CLOCKWISE, 1 TURN COUNTER CLOCKWISE, 1 MORE TURN CLOCKWISE, THEN HIT START , ALL THE INDICATOR LIGHTS SHOULD THEN LIGHT UP, THEN UNPLUG FROM THE WALL FOR 5 MINUTES THEN PLUG BACK IN , IT SHOULD BE RESET AFTER PLUGGING BACK IN

Feb 11, 2017 | Whirlpool Washing Machines

2 Answers

Whirlpool he washer-lid lock light flashing and lid locked. reset by using start/pause/ lock button. start washer-light comes on/sensing begins light starts flashing again and washer stops operating


LID LOCK LIGHT STAYS ON NO START:

Usually either the lid lock mechanism, the lid lock actuator or the board is the culprit even a disconnected capacitor.

MACHINES SAIDS SENSING
When the START button is pressed, the washer will first perform a self-test on the lid lock mechanism. You will hear a click, the basket will make a slight turn, and the lid will unlock briefly before locking again. Once the lid has locked the second time, the washer
will slowly spin the dry load to estimate the load size, and begin adding water. The washer will then move the load briefly, pause to allow water to soak in to the load, and resume adding water. This process may repeat until the correct amount of water has been
added for the load. You may also hear water flowing through the dispenser, adding detergent to the load.

NOTE: The sensing light may also come on during the Soak and Wash portions of the cycle. This is normal.

Try unplugging the cord a couple of times. See what happens then try going into diagnostic error codes, see what codes are shown. To pin point where the problem is. if you have no display to read the fault codes. Your main control board may be the issue.

Next, while in Manual diagnostics, try to get the unit to spin; if the motor hums for a split second and then shuts down with the lid lock blinking; go back into diagnostic codes and look for shifter or speed sensor errors.
This is proof that the shifter/sensor actuator assembly is the issue because the optical sensor is not reading the motor speed.

I suggest unplug the washer and check the wire connections on the switch. If a meter is available then you can check the resistance (ohms) of the lock motor.

Note: After performing the manual test and the lid lock works perfectly, or at least as it is supposed to. You can eliminate that as the problem.If the lock worked in the manual test but doesn't in an actual cycle then I suspect the control board is at fault.

A safety feature found on front load washing machine is the door switch and the door lock and strike. On most models, the door switch must be closed and the door lock must be activated before the washer will start. The switch is normally located in the door frame of the washing machine, but may also be part of the door lock assembly. Inspect the strike to make sure that it engages the door lock assembly and that the door remains closed. To check the door switch for continuity with a multi-meter, you will need to disconnect the power and remove the front panel.

The lid switch on a top load washing machine is a safety device designed to prevent the motor circuit from operating when the lOn some models, the water inlet valve circuit is controlled as well. If the lid switch fails, the washer may not start. The lid switch is normally located beneath the main top with a projection on the lid or a pin attached to the lid that will actuate the switch when the lid is closed. Verify that the switch is being activated mechanically and that any levers or actuators are not damaged or sticking. If the switch is being activated but there is no power being supplied to the motor or water valve circuits, then the switch may be defective

The start switch on some top load washers is often part of the timer and is activated by pulling out on the timer knob. Although not normally available as a separate part, the switch can be tested for continuity with a multi-meter. You will need to remove power from the appliance and then locate the correct timer contacts as noted on the wiring diagram. On some electronic controlled models, the start switch is a momentary contact type switch located on the control console. You can test this switch for continuity with a multi-meter when the push button is held in
God is good and that's why I give free advice.

Dec 26, 2016 | Whirlpool Washing Machines

1 Answer

How do I stop lid lock light flashing on and off


LID LOCK LIGHT STAYS ON NO START:

Usually either the lid lock mechanism, the lid lock actuator or the board is the culprit even a disconnected capacitor.

MACHINES SAIDS SENSING
When the START button is pressed, the washer will first perform a self-test on the lid lock mechanism. You will hear a click, the basket will make a slight turn, and the lid will unlock briefly before locking again. Once the lid has locked the second time, the washer
will slowly spin the dry load to estimate the load size, and begin adding water. The washer will then move the load briefly, pause to allow water to soak in to the load, and resume adding water. This process may repeat until the correct amount of water has been
added for the load. You may also hear water flowing through the dispenser, adding detergent to the load.

NOTE: The sensing light may also come on during the Soak and Wash portions of the cycle. This is normal.

Try unplugging the cord a couple of times. See what happens then try going into diagnostic error codes, see what codes are shown. To pin point where the problem is. if you have no display to read the fault codes. Your main control board may be the issue.

Next, while in Manual diagnostics, try to get the unit to spin; if the motor hums for a split second and then shuts down with the lid lock blinking; go back into diagnostic codes and look for shifter or speed sensor errors.
This is proof that the shifter/sensor actuator assembly is the issue because the optical sensor is not reading the motor speed.

I suggest unplug the washer and check the wire connections on the switch. If a meter is available then you can check the resistance (ohms) of the lock motor.

Note: After performing the manual test and the lid lock works perfectly, or at least as it is supposed to. You can eliminate that as the problem.If the lock worked in the manual test but doesn't in an actual cycle then I suspect the control board is at fault.

A safety feature found on front load washing machine is the door switch and the door lock and strike. On most models, the door switch must be closed and the door lock must be activated before the washer will start. The switch is normally located in the door frame of the washing machine, but may also be part of the door lock assembly. Inspect the strike to make sure that it engages the door lock assembly and that the door remains closed. To check the door switch for continuity with a multi-meter, you will need to disconnect the power and remove the front panel.

The lid switch on a top load washing machine is a safety device designed to prevent the motor circuit from operating when the lOn some models, the water inlet valve circuit is controlled as well. If the lid switch fails, the washer may not start. The lid switch is normally located beneath the main top with a projection on the lid or a pin attached to the lid that will actuate the switch when the lid is closed. Verify that the switch is being activated mechanically and that any levers or actuators are not damaged or sticking. If the switch is being activated but there is no power being supplied to the motor or water valve circuits, then the switch may be defective

The start switch on some top load washers is often part of the timer and is activated by pulling out on the timer knob. Although not normally available as a separate part, the switch can be tested for continuity with a multi-meter. You will need to remove power from the appliance and then locate the correct timer contacts as noted on the wiring diagram. On some electronic controlled models, the start switch is a momentary contact type switch located on the control console. You can test this switch for continuity with a multi-meter when the push button is held in
God is good and that's why I give free advice.







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May 17, 2015 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

Wash machine stopped mid spin cycle - lid locked and now power


LID LOCK LIGHT STAYS ON NO START:

Usually either the lid lock mechanism, the lid lock actuator or the board is the culprit even a disconnected capacitor.

MACHINES SAIDS SENSING
When the START button is pressed, the washer will first perform a self-test on the lid lock mechanism. You will hear a click, the basket will make a slight turn, and the lid will unlock briefly before locking again. Once the lid has locked the second time, the washer
will slowly spin the dry load to estimate the load size, and begin adding water. The washer will then move the load briefly, pause to allow water to soak in to the load, and resume adding water. This process may repeat until the correct amount of water has been
added for the load. You may also hear water flowing through the dispenser, adding detergent to the load.

NOTE: The sensing light may also come on during the Soak and Wash portions of the cycle. This is normal.

Try unplugging the cord a couple of times. See what happens then try going into diagnostic error codes, see what codes are shown. To pin point where the problem is. if you have no display to read the fault codes. Your main control board may be the issue.

Next, while in Manual diagnostics, try to get the unit to spin; if the motor hums for a split second and then shuts down with the lid lock blinking; go back into diagnostic codes and look for shifter or speed sensor errors.
This is proof that the shifter/sensor actuator assembly is the issue because the optical sensor is not reading the motor speed.

I suggest unplug the washer and check the wire connections on the switch. If a meter is available then you can check the resistance (ohms) of the lock motor.

Note: After performing the manual test and the lid lock works perfectly, or at least as it is supposed to. You can eliminate that as the problem.If the lock worked in the manual test but doesn't in an actual cycle then I suspect the control board is at fault.

A safety feature found on front load washing machine is the door switch and the door lock and strike. On most models, the door switch must be closed and the door lock must be activated before the washer will start. The switch is normally located in the door frame of the washing machine, but may also be part of the door lock assembly. Inspect the strike to make sure that it engages the door lock assembly and that the door remains closed. To check the door switch for continuity with a multi-meter, you will need to disconnect the power and remove the front panel.

The lid switch on a top load washing machine is a safety device designed to prevent the motor circuit from operating when the lOn some models, the water inlet valve circuit is controlled as well. If the lid switch fails, the washer may not start. The lid switch is normally located beneath the main top with a projection on the lid or a pin attached to the lid that will actuate the switch when the lid is closed. Verify that the switch is being activated mechanically and that any levers or actuators are not damaged or sticking. If the switch is being activated but there is no power being supplied to the motor or water valve circuits, then the switch may be defective

The start switch on some top load washers is often part of the timer and is activated by pulling out on the timer knob. Although not normally available as a separate part, the switch can be tested for continuity with a multi-meter. You will need to remove power from the appliance and then locate the correct timer contacts as noted on the wiring diagram. On some electronic controlled models, the start switch is a momentary contact type switch located on the control console. You can test this switch for continuity with a multi-meter when the push button is held in
God is good and that's why I give free advice.







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May 15, 2015 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

My machine is stuck on 'lid lock'.


Good day, I will see if I could assist, there is could be a few reasons this is happening. If you could list the order and sequence of the led lights please.

Code 49 is not always the inlet valves it could be the controller too, a bit of testing on your end is necessary to eliminate the actual cause and remedial suggestions.

Jun 27, 2014 | Fisher and Paykel Washing Machines

1 Answer

Fisher paykel washer. turn on 3 progress lights up only, cannot switch off power button. When off the lid lock red light is on


this is a fault in the motor controller fault. the fault code number is 140. it may have a problem with the motor windings / RPS also. you will need parts from F+P.

Nov 12, 2013 | Fisher and Paykel IWL12 Top Load Washer

1 Answer

Lights 3,4 and 8 light up washer beeps


That is Error code 49,
49. (00110001) Phase 2 to 6 - Cold Valve Faulty (proportional)
The Motor Controller module has measured a voltage from the valve diagnostic
circuit that indicates the cold valve is faulty. The most likely cause is that the valve
harness has not been connected correctly or the valve is open circuit. See fault code 48 for service procedure.
48. (00110000) Phase 2 to 6 - Hot and Cold Valve Faulty
The Motor Controller module has measured voltages from the valve diagnostic
circuit that indicate both the hot and cold valves are faulty. The most likely cause is
that the valve harnesses have not been connected correctly or the valve is open
circuit.
Primary Source: Wiring.
Action:
Check the valve harnesses are correctly fastened to the valves or the pins are not
bent backwards.
Secondary Source: Water Valves.
Action:
Check the valve coils are not faulty (open circuit).
Tertiary Source: Motor Controller module.
Action:
Replace the Motor Controller module.

Nov 12, 2012 | Fisher and Paykel GWL11 Top Load Washer

1 Answer

Error code 49 on gw712 washing machine. constant beeping when turned on, lights 3,4 and 8 on. beeping stops once a button is pushed. If start button is pushed, lights go out and lid lock light...


Ive been told that this is a faulty cold water valve. Just got of the phone with F & P as my machine is doing the same. Bout $60 to replace

Apr 28, 2011 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

My washer starts and stops a few seconds later with a FL code


Hello donaldwoulla,
I’m an owner of a FAV6800AWW not a GURU, this forum automated rating system is way too generous, I will try to help. Do you feel OK to try some troubleshooting? The following troubleshooting assumes you want try a possible DIY fix.
“FL” code is Failed to lock, we will try a few troubleshooting steps. The following test will be done by selecting the Spin Only cycle. First test will be done in service mode.
1. This is from SM; Press Enviro Plus and Spin Only keys for 3 seconds to activate Service Mode. Access Board Output Test by pressing the Delicates key. Display shows “ot” and the lid locks should actuate locking the lid. Does this happen, do you take the “FL” fail code in this process? Hit OFF button to cancel this test.

2. I want to make sure you signal an “OP” alarm to the display. Can you select Spin Only cycle with the lid open press start. Do you signal the “OP” alarm, lid open to the display? If it does close the lid and the “OP” alarm should clear, does it? I’m checking that the lid magnet is in place and the signaling connections are working thru the left lid lock back to the control board.

3. With spin only cycle selected and the lid closed press the Start Button do both lid locks try to close and lock the lid? From your initial post I believe you throw a “FL” to the display very quickly, that is the left and right lid locks do not actuate several times before the control board displays the “FL” fail code. Is that correct?

4. This step requires you to raise the top off the washer you will need to the move the washer out several inches and you should have a helper available to hold the lid up for you. Unplug the washer from the 120VAC outlet. Use this info and the FAV6800A/9800A Service Manual to assist you. To raise the top of the machine, insert a flat blade putty knife approximately 2.5” from the left and right sides of the washer top, depress the spring tabs securing machine top to the washer base. See page 33 of the SM for putty knife insertion point. We are going to reseat the Left Lid Lock plug a couple of times into the Left Lid Lock. We are checking to see if there might be some corrosion on the plug contacts. Take a look at page 34 of the SM. Top right of the page Lid Lock/Reed Switch Removal where the persons thumb is. This is the plug we want to remove and reseat a few times. It may be difficult to do remove so be careful. Mine was very difficult to remove the first time. This lid lock is near the bleach dispenser and other owners have had corrosion issues with this left lock causing issues. After doing this and you have reseated the plug into the left lid lock a few times power up the washer and give it a try.

Just to let you know don’t worry about the right lid lock, it’s signaling and control functions are in parallel with the left lid lock. I’ve had mine disconnected since mid Dec. The left lid lock is the important lid lock. It has the dual functions of signaling the control board that the lid is open/closed by the magnetic reed relay in that lid lock and the lid is locked by contact closure back to the control board in that lid lock. If this doesn’t help resolve the issue we will try removing the left lid lock to inspect if you feel OK to continue. Good luck. Rich

Mar 19, 2009 | Maytag Neptune FAV6800AW Top Load Washer

1 Answer

Fisher & Paykel GW612 beeps before spin.


You have fault code 66 (01000010) Phase 6- Pressure Transducer (Ptx) Error - Frequency >90kHZ. In simple terms you need to replace the main "Motor Control Module" Cheers

Mar 09, 2009 | Fisher and Paykel Fisher Paykel Intuitive...

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