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Sir ,what are you trying to do ? Your Temp gauge isn't working ? Before you attempt to fix something you need to know how it works. What wire are you talking about ?
The PCM sends engine coolant temperature data to the instrument cluster through the class 2 serial data line. The instrument cluster uses a look up table in order to determine needle deflection. The instrument cluster uses a smoothing filter in order to secure a continuous response.
The coolant temp. sensor is an input to the engine computer .
Wouldn't you actually look over the car & what the job entails, before you order parts? I would remove the ones your replacing & get the brand off them as well, so you try & get the original factory brand. Usually you just replace the front or upstream sensors, not the rear monitors, until they fail You ask about sensors,not knowing what ever Use Google to educate yourself long before you throw parts at something for no reason In the professional world,the best of the best few as there may be,actually test every component before anything ever gets replaced,failed or just preventative maintenance
It is probably the "cold start" cycle. A Temperature sensor will send a signal to the computer in order to make the fuel charge rich and change the timing. This will last less than 3 minutes on many cars.
The process is similar to the old "choke" system adding a timing change to the rich fuel mix. Many cars have 2 Temperature sensors and for those you want to change the one that does NOT work the dash gauge or light. The sensor you want is dedicated to providing temperature info to the computer.
The "F1" fault code implies a faulty oven temperature sensor. In order to diagnose which will require disconnecting the oven temperature sensor from inside the oven cavity and measuring the resistance using an ohm meter. The oven temperature sensor probe should measure approximately 1100 ohms at room temperature. Here is the temp. sensor to order.
E221 is an indication that the out side temperature sensor is faulty,
this could mean it's open circuit (no resistance) sensing temperature or could be it has came loose on outdoor pcb (circuit board The E242 refers to a fault code, test temperature sensor and replace and you should be problem solved
see photos attached for help in testing the sensor
I just answered a very similar issue on a similar van. I had an almost identical problem and it turned out to be a bad set of spark plugs! Be sure your battery is in good shape, cables are good (clean, tight, free of corrosion and where they terminate is clean, tight, no corrosion and not frayed etc...) If that's all good, a major tune up may be in order. The computer is only deciphering the info its given. Start with the simple things and work back. Please let me know if this fixed or changes the issue. I have more ideas if this didn't do it. Good luck!
Almost exclusively, GM vehicles early on used a Manifold Absolute Pressure sensor and at the time there really wasn't a Mass Airflow Sensor until around 1986 I believe. My Jaguar has both I think which is over-kill. GM's only have one or the other but not both. I believe your Regal 3.8 utilizes a Mass Airflow Sensor and has no MAP sensor. These two devices I find produce the greatest spread between rich and lean fuel mixtures (and every mixture in between). Oxygen sensors seem to provide more of a fine or subtle mixture change, and in the middle so to speak are coolant temperature sensors located in the intake, screwed into the water jacket where they can best sense coolant temperature.Toyota made (in my opinion) a crappy early MAF sensor that consisted of a spring-loaded door of sorts inside, situated directly in the intake airflow path. The more air flow through it, the further the little door opened. At reduced engine speed the door isn't held open as far and the spring makes it close in response. Modern MAF sensors are also situated directly in the instake airflow path but are constructed completely different. They use a "hot film" or "hot wire" and the more air moving through them causes them to pull more current in order to maintain the temperature. It is this current sensing that the computer uses to determine the mixture needed for any given running condition. Some can become contaminated and need the little heating element cleaned with a spray solvent available at any auto parts store. You must NEVER touch the heating element even when cold! It can easily be damaged and rendered useless. This could cause your engine not to start. Take it to Autozone or Advance Auto Parts and ask if they can check your vehicle for codes if you can drive there. The EFI computer knows if the sensors are not operating in their normal range and need replacement.
Sounds like there is an issue with the Temperature Sensor that controls the gauge on your dash. The Temp sensor is located on the engine block. In order to assist you further in locating exactly where this sensor is i would need to know what engine is in this vehicle?
COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR THREADS INTO A COOLANT PIPE NEAR THE COOLANT OUTLET.LOOK AT SMALL COOLANT PIPES AT RADIATOR.YOU WILL SEE A SENSOR WITH WIRES CONNECTING TO IT.WITH COOLANT COOLANT HOSES CONNECTED TO IT.COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR IS BETWEEN TWO COOLANT HOSES CANT MISS IT.YOU HAVE TO SQUEEZE CLAPS ON HOSES WITH PLIERS IN ORDER TO REMOVE HOSES FROM COOLANT SENSOR.