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A simple coil test is: Take the plugs out of the cylinder heads and lay them back on it so that they have a good ground. Then watch the spark plugs closely when you turn the ignition switch off. You should see a single spark on each plug. This tell you that the coil is getting fire and that it is good and your problem lies elsewhere.
Test the primary coil resistance on your coil. Disconnect all the wires going to the small terminals (primary) on your coil. Using a good ohmmeter on Rx1 setting, test the resistance between the two small terminals. You should read somewhere between 2 and 3 ohms. If you read more, the coil is bad. Before you do this test short out both leads of the ohmmeter and if the reading is not zero you will need to write down or otherwise remember the number and subtract it from the reading you get from the primary circuit test or you will have an incorrect resistance reading for the primary wires because you will also be reading the ohmmeter internal resistance and/or the wire and lead resistance added to the primary wiring resistance.
You can also test the coil by leaving the "hot" wire on the coil and replacing the other side (ground side) with a short piece of wire. Turn the ignition on and temporarily ground the short piece of wire you put on the "out" (ground) side. When you take the wire away from the ground, (which will collapse the primary current into the secondary) you should see a spark at the plugs if it is a wasted spark system or at one of the plugs if it is not a wasted spark system. If you have current to both sides of the primary of a two part coil both plugs should get a spark whether wasted spark system or not as you are energizing both sides of the primary and collapsing both into both secondaries at the same time when you remove the ground wire from the cylinder head ground.
You are at thhe right trail what controls spark is coil pack crank sensor sparkplugs and plug wire but the most important is power . I mean 12 volt connections and ground This includes checking fuses you need a simple volt meter doesnt have to expensive or fancy just to pick up 12 volts let start with fuses in the engine juction box (there not mark to what it belongs to) make sure none are open. especially fuse 19 and 24 , next go to the crank sensor make sure the tabs are snuggly on now to the coil pack there is a red and light green wire this comes from ignition and feeds 12 volts at the coil pack measure that voltage is it 12 volts if not correct it this is from ignition switch ( you can make a tool that feed 12 volt with a wire and a fuse in series and attatch it to battery and the primary wire this is known as hot wire) next go to the ECM wiggle the wires see if that get a connection going if not go back to the ICM here are the wire you are to measure the tan light green, this is from ECM and it is pulsed it measure 5vlts to 0 volts switched then measure the tan orange the same thing 5 volts to zero,then tan white again 5vlts to zero. any one of these 5 to zero fails you fix is the ecm
hello my name is Lee i work on cars this how you can break it down first get a spark plug then un plug one spark plug then plug the spark plug in the wire that you un plug have some one crank it and if it don't get spark it is the coil or distributor coil. and it you get spark then its not that then check fuses relays. now if it an't making no noise and batt charge then it is the starter now if its not that its cranking it could be your crankshaft sensor replace that and if not that it could be timing if not u can email me at firstname.lastname@example.org
Remove spark plug access cover. (Black cover on top of engine.)
Once you have the black plastic cover off, number the coil packs with a magic marker 1 - 6 front to back so you can correctly replace them.
Coil packs are held in with a pair of 10mm bolts (A and B in the illustration. Later 960s have only one bolt at A).
Once you have the bolts out the pack should just pull out. A little twisting may help as there is an "O" ring seal at the top of the valve cover and a big boot at the spark plug.
Remove coils from spark plugs. Do NOT disconnect coil wires. (VERY IMPORTANT)
Inspect the condition of the wiring going to the coil pack. Look for crumbled insulation or charring. See 960 FAQ file for information on failing engine wiring harnesses.
If you have comprssed air blow out the plug cavity before you take the plug out. As an alternative use a vacuum cleaner and brush to clean any "stuff" out of the hole to avoid having it fall into the cylinder.
Remove spark plugs. Use a good quality, rubber insulated spark plug socket. Once they are unscrewed, you have to haul them up out of the hole.
Check and adjust spark plug gap to: 0.030" (.75 mm)
Install clean, "un-oiled", spark plugs and torque to: 18 ft. lbs .
Refit ignition coils.
Reinstall spark plug access cover.
narrow-gaprisk: spark might be too weak/small to ignite fuel;
narrow-gapbenefit: plug always fires on each cycle;
wide-gaprisk: plug might not fire, or miss at high speeds;
wide-gapbenefit: spark is strong for a clean burn.
Check to see if you have 12 volts going into the coil. make sure the coil has a good ground. If it does not work you could do an ohm check on the spark plug wire to see if it is broken or not. On the spark plug pull back the rubber boot at the wire and un screw the cap. check and make sure cap has good contact into wire. you could trim the wire back a very little bit and screw the cap back on a check again. let me know
un clip breather hose from rocker cover and air filter housing (careful as this is brittle)
unplug coil pack and move wiring out of the way
undo the 10mm bolts at each end of the coil pack
remove coil pack
remove spark plugs
yes u have to pull out the bolts they are 10 mm heads u will also have to un plug the injector harness and un bolt it to pull out the coil packs off each spark plugs also recommend going back with o.e.m. plugs