Question about Whirlpool Washing Machines
It seems u have an issue with the agitation process..
first use a multi meter and check ur water pressure switch? that is what sends the machine the message to start wash cycle?
You can test it with a meter and with a manual test? ( first locate it in the panel, it has a plastic clear tube hose going into it, remove that tube from its connection, now put another small tube or hose into the slot where it was and have the machine set to wash cycle with water in it. Blow into the other end of the tube.
If the machine starts to wash. the pressure switch is more than likely good
( No wash- then THE DIAPHRAGM IS BAD AND SWITCH HAS TO BE REPLACED) another test u can do is Remove the hose and submerge in water. Seal one end and blow air into the other end and look for bubbles. Check for an obstruction in the hose as well.
Or take the original hose tube and plug one end and blow into it AT the other end, it should be hard and have pressure, if it is easy to blow and u dont feel any pressure and it feels like the air is going out ?
Sometimes they get busted open or a pin hole and release air causing the water switch diaphragm to not open.
Another test u can make with a multi meter is by testing the prongs individually.
# 15,16,17 (don't worry to much bout the numbers IF U GET THEM WRONG) place ur meter prongs on both out side prongs or connectors of the switch.
(where the wire plugs into) take note of weather it shows OHMS or infinity ( open or close circuit) ? Now place the meter on the left outside and the middle prong, take note agin what it shows. Now place meter prong on the right outside and the middle prong. Agin take note what reading u get. ( you should actually get a reading of infinity in 1 and a reading of continuity or ohms in the other 2? Now the tricky part. Agin place a small tube or hose into the switch and blow into it, using the meter do the same test agin on all prongs. But now keep the pressure on the switch when u blow into it, in other words use ur tongue on one end of tube to not allow air to escape. When u test it agin now one of the prongs that once read infinity should now show continuity or ohms, and 1 of the other prongs that read ohms should now read infinity or open.
If both check ok then next CHECK the motor coupler (a bad couplercan be checked by looking under the machine and taking note if there is a black residue on floor, look at coupler located between the motor and tranny, and see if it is broken up or missing any parts? Try to turn shaft by hand and notice if it does not engage tub? )
or belt if belt driven. Check for loose, broken or worn belt .
Then check the door switch with a multi meter for continuity OHMS when door closed and infinity when door is opened , and if there is a little movement on wash cycle in 1 direction only then check the cam dogs in agitator.
Also check THE CAM DOGS INSIDE THE AGITATOR, AS THEY WILL HINDER THE AGITATION PROCESS. However in G.E models the cam dogs are replaced with what is called an agitator coupler. (located at bottom of tub)
Remember to check the agitator spline as well. for worn broken teeth
By the way my advice is free cuz God is good!
Posted on May 08, 2015
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Whirlpool Thin Twin YLTE6234DQ2
YOU CAN DO THIS.,POP THE FRONT PANEL OFF,GO TO THE SWITCH PLUG JACK ON RIGHT SIDE UNPLUG JACK,ON THE SWITCH SIDE WIRES CUT THE OUTSIDE WIRES PUT THEM TOGETHER WITH WIRE NUT,LEAVE GREEN WIRE ANONE,PLUG BACK INTO JACK,YOUR DONE,REMEMBER NOW IN THE SPIN CYCLE IT WILL WORK BUT WHEN YOU OPEN THE LIP IT WILL NOT TURN OFF SO KEEP YOUR HANDS OUT OF THERE,THANKS-MIKE
Posted on May 28, 2008
An easy Fix. Take off the kick panel, 3 screws 1/4 inch. Make sure you have a shop vac ready or a lot of towels as there will be some water. Always disconnect power to washer and dryer, and turn off water to washer. Your filter most likely is clogged with change, screws, lint, and other household stuff that we leave in our pockets! Unscrew the cap on the filter, easy to find, since you have the kick panel off! Take everything out of the filter. Take your shop vac and **** out remaining stuff in hose. Also, **** up any water that has leaked in and around the washer. Screw the cap back on hand tight, put the kick panel back on, turn your water back on, plug it in and there you go! Maybe takes an hour and saves you a repair bill. If you are not comfortable with this procedure then call a maintenance person that is qualified.
Posted on Jan 06, 2009
HELLO, Error code F1 indicates a control failure and most likely the machine control board will have to be replaced. Depending on when you purchased the machine, the board may be covered under extended component warranty.
I had the same F1 problem and they had to replace the control board and something relating to the balance. The tech told me this is a common problem.
Posted on Apr 06, 2009
"F21" is a Long Drain error code. The following link explains:
In most cases this is simply caused by a clogged drain pump and all that is required is a good cleaning. Read through the instructions provided in the link on how to do this. Make sure the washer is unplugged while servicing any of the internal components.
If the problem persists, you may have a drain pump that is malfunctioning or is damaged. The manufacturer recommends replacing the pump if this is the case.
Let me know if you have any questions. I hope this helps you.
Posted on Jun 12, 2009
SOURCE: F&P washer lights on and beeps
Clogged pump stopped up drain. If the washer does not think all water was pumped out in 8 minutes then it shuts down. Slow drain is my first inclination.
Posted on Dec 31, 2009
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