Question about GE Profile PGSS5PJXSS Stainless Steel Bottom Freezer French Door Refrigerator
I unplugged to prevent the new board from burning up. Any ideas on what to try next?
Fridge not starting? CLICKING? FIRST ALWAYSCHECK FORpower at the outlet,checkfor 120 volts. I think God os good that's why I give free advice?
MAY HAVE A BAD START RELAY OR CAPACITOR ON THE COMPRESSOR , CAN BUY A INEXSPENSIVE 3 IN 1 HARDSTART KIT AND BY PASS THEM , NOT THAT HARD TO DO, COMES WITH INSTRUCTIONS> BY THE WAY DO U HEAR ANY CLICKING SOUNDS FROM COMPRESSOR? BUT U MAY ALSO WANT TO CHECK UR COLD CONTROL THERMOSTAT IF IT GOES BAD U MAY GET A NON START ALSO HAVE IT CHECKED FOR PROPER VOLTAGE AND OHMS RESISTANCE WHEN IN THE ON POSITION
A BAD DEFROST TIMER CAN SHUT DOWN COMPRESSOR HAVE IT CHECKED WITH MULTI METER.
to check the defrost timer, u can get by and test manually by placing a small screw driver into the tiny slot or hole underneath the timer and turn slowly clockwise till u hear 1 click. this will engage ur defrost cycle in about 15 minutes u should be able to come back and feel the heat in freezer as it melts the ice providing ur terminator is not bad?
Another way to test it is with a multi meter. Remove timer it from fridge and you will see 4 prongs numbered 2,1,4,3 in that order. Place ur meter prong on prong 1 & 3 (if your fridge has a capacitor wired in series with the windings, then u check for micro fares rather than OHMS) If u cannot confirm this test, still try the next.
Take ur meter prong and connect to prong 1 & 4, it should read resistance or ohms ( closed) now remove prongs and place on prong 1 & 2, this should now read infinity or open (no ohms) now take a small screwdriver place it in the tiny hole or slot under the timer. Turn it clockwise slowly till u hear 1 click. Now ur 1& 2 should read closed ( showing ohms or resistance) now place meter prongs on 1 & 4 and you it should now show open ( or no resistance - no ohms) this is how u know ur timer is good, Remember when testing for ohms ADJUST meter to use a high ohms rating in the thousands as the resistance is very high in OHMS. And adjusting to low ohms rating may give a false reading or not show the proper resistance..
AT TIMES YOU MAY HEAR THE COMPRESSOR CLICK OFF AND ON OVER AND OVER. Signs of a bad start relay or capacitor. Check with an OHMS meter for continuity (ohms) and voltage, capacitor can be checked for Microfares.
To check ur compressor with multi meter:
Disconnect and remove the relay and capacitor from compressor, somes located next to compressor in a casing.
You wills see 3 prongs coming out of compressor. 1 goes to ur start winding, 1 goes to ur run winding and the center goes to ur ground or COM
Place ur meter connector or prong on the start prong and the other on the ground (center prong) take note of the reading in OHMS for example 5 ohms.
Next place meter prong on run prong and the center ground prong agin. Take note of the reading in OHMS. Example 4 ohms
Next place meter prong on the start prong and the other on the run prong, now take note of the reading example 9 ohms. Now match the total of this ohms test with the total of ur two separate test. 9 ohms, if they match ur ok give or take 5 percent plus or minus. One more test to make to test of there is a short in compressor attach meter prong to ground prong and rub the other end of meter prong to metal ( scrape the metal clean of paint and test on metal surface not painted surface. If it shows continuity or ohms , u have a short in ur compressor. It should show infinity
God is so good: so this is why I give free advice so please thank him not me.
Board had a burn spot and I replaced it. Everythi - 25670355-fvsmv4etqgwauuwz5eop31ms-5-5.jpgt/uploads/images/25670355-fvsmv4etqgwauuwz5eop31ms-5-5.jpg" alt="25670355-fvsmv4etqgwauuwz5eop31ms-5-5.jpg" class="h_mi" />
Posted on May 06, 2015
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: GE side By Side GSS22JEMDWW
Maybe but there is also a thermister in the defrost system that might be bad. The thermister is a small, white, barrell shape and is as big around as a pencil, It has 2 wires going in it and is attached to the top of the coils in the freezer.
Posted on Jul 03, 2008
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To answer your question I know of no reason the electronic type of board would cause the heater to go out unless the defrost thermostat (or sensor) and board stuck in the defrost possession and did not stop the heater. Any time you replace the board and have had a defrost problem a check of the heater will either confirm or eliminate it but the defrost sensor should be replaced if the board is being blamed for non defrost. I cant rule out 100% that a bad board will not cause a heater problem but the high 99% range is most likely. If you have a volt ohm meter and can find the heater circuit on your board and the freezer has been running down to correct temp you can check the defrost circuit by ohming it out. Lower resistance of 10 to 60 ohms is common. Anything higher will require ohming the heater out directly and the defrost thermostat will be open if the temperature is above the stats range.
Common to all self defrosting refrigerators / freezers is the need to move air around to pickup heat inside the compartment. Common to all frost free refrigeration to maintain this feature are 3 items:
1 and initiator (defrost timer or circuit board),
2 A heat source for defrost (Usually an electric heat element but can be other types of heat sources)
3 A safety limit to stop the heat source, leaving it warm enough to defrost and keep the heat contained where it will not affect the compartment advisedly. In a standard type defrost (non - electronic) it is called a thermostat. In an electronic board defrost it is called a sensor.
The defrost timer / or board will never be in the Freezer. Other than that it could be in the refrigerator section behind a plastic cover or metal cover on the back outside. It could also be under Neath the front corners or center of the front kick plate.
A timer you can turn the cam clock wise till it clicks. A board will depend on the manufacturer as to how to send into defrost for a test. A sensor on the defrost type board may be required to by-pass into defrost or test mode.
The freezer section has the only cooling coil. It sounds like it is blocked with frost and thus won’t let the air circulate from freezer to refrigerator.
There is a defrost timer, (or board), a defrost heater, and a defrost safety thermostat. Any One of these or a combination of 2 can be your problem. If you have a energy efficient model that has electronic controls then you will have a board. The procedures for checking the circuit on a board vary by manufacturer of the board used and manufacturer of the appliance.
The defrost heater always has resistance and is attached to the freezer coil.
The defrost thermostat is also attached to the heater electrically, unless it is an electronic sensor type. Sensor types have a range of resistance that needs to be known to check and varies slightly with the temperature of the sensor.
If I haven't lost you here you maybe equipped with the life experiences that will allow you to do most of these checks. If its over your understanding I recommend you contact a reliable technician..
Posted on Apr 17, 2009
SOURCE: Slow compressor fan
You need to remove the fan and test it somewhere different. The compressor is in need of the condenser fan. Everything will overheat without that fan working. You should also test the power at that pin plug. Let me know what you find. Sea Breeze
Posted on Jul 22, 2009
Don't know who to believe these days. When the compressor won't start and over heats the start relay,start capacitor and external overload may be the most likely reason. The door frames have heat strips that is normal. Sea Breeze
Posted on Jul 23, 2009
You need to change the board . Part number WR55X10656 . The board relay , cannot be changed . Power surges , dirty condensor coils , and usage , are the most common causes , for board failure .
Posted on Sep 24, 2009
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