The Pump just stops working. 'We open top and push rotor and couple of revolutions and it will start again when we plug it back in.

The rotor should point to cylinder #1 or the cylinder opposite it on the distributor when the engine timing mark is on TDC if you have everything back together correctly. The distributor turns once for every two revolutions of the crankshaft.
In the good old days [whenever those were] I used to use a remote starter button switch. Then with all of the spark plugs out I'd hold my thumb over the #1 plug hole and bump the engine over until the compression pushed my thumb away from the hole, then I'd turn it by hand to TDC and put the distributor in so that the rotor pointed to #1 cylinder with the points just starting to open. It was always good enough that it would start.
Also with the plugs out so the engine will crank faster, you can use a timing light just like if the engine is running.

Chevy 2500HD No Start No Spark No Fuel Cranks OK
Testing !!!

pull the distributor
turn the crank to tdc compression stroke ( remove n1 plug and put you finger over the hole to get compression stroke ) line the rotor button up with no 1 plug lead
move the rotor button back about 1/2 inch and insert the distributor
as you push it in the button will move around to line up
keep adjusting the button back until it lines up
tighten the distributor down

Hi,

I am copying a solution I gave to another person about 10 minutes ago. They had a similar issue...

There is a possibility that the rotor motor which drains your water out has failed or that the propellor has worn out.

Open the drawer and remove the dish tray and cutlery basket. To remove tray, it is easier to lift the back of it up first then the front so that you clear the soap tray knob.
Then remove the filter mesh which is the disk on the bottom. To remove untwist the centre anti clock-wise half a turn. This releases it so that you can lift it out.
If you have water left on the bottom, empty out in a container with a sponge.
Then you will be able to see the top of the rotor motor in the centre.
Again half a twist to free it and then lift it out. Once you remove it look at the propellors to see if they have not chipped away. Most of the time the rotor stops working.
You can swap the rotors from the good drawer to test and see if it pumps the water out.
Normally when you start a new cycle, you will first hear the machine roof seal motors working for a couple of seconds, then the machine goes into an initial pump cycle for about 15 seconds. After this you will hear it stop and then start filling up with water. Once it has filled up with water, stop the machine and repeat a new cycle.

Pause the machine after the initial stage to see it it has pumped the water out.
If the problem is the rotor you can order a replacement and fit it yourself. Very easy to do.
Ash

Hi,

There is a possibility that the rotor motor which drains your water out has failed or that the propellor has worn out.

Open the drawer and remove the dish tray and cutlery basket. To remove tray, it is easier to lift the back of it up first then the front so that you clear the soap tray knob.
Then remove the filter mesh which is the disk on the bottom. To remove untwist the centre anti clock-wise half a turn. This releases it so that you can lift it out.
If you have water left on the bottom, empty out in a container with a sponge.
Then you will be able to see the top of the rotor motor in the centre.
Again half a twist to free it and then lift it out. Once you remove it look at the propellors to see if they have not chipped away. Most of the time the rotor stops working.
You can swap the rotors from the good drawer to test and see if it pumps the water out.
Normally when you start a new cycle, you will first hear the machine roof seal motors working for a couple of seconds, then the machine goes into an initial pump cycle for about 15 seconds. After this you will hear it stop and then start filling up with water. Once it has filled up with water, stop the machine and repeat a new cycle.

Pause the machine after the initial stage to see it it has pumped the water out.
If the problem is the rotor you can order a replacement and fit it yourself. Very easy to do.
Ash

Remove all the spark plugs. On the front of the engine the bottom pulley (the harmonic balancer connected to the crankshaft) will have a little notch on the rear edge of the balancer. It may not be visible yet. Locate the timing indicator which is on the block near the 2 o'clock position of the balancer (looking at the balancer from the front). Place a socket wrench on the center bolt of the balancer and turn clockwise until the notch lines up with the "0" mark on the timing indicator. Install the number 1 cylinder spark plug (this is the front most plug). Using the socket wrench on the balancer turn clockwise one full turn bring the notch back to the 0 mark. Pay attention to how difficult it is to rotate the engine the last half of the full turn. If it was as easy as the first half of the turn then make one more full revolution. If it is difficult or impossible to bring the notch to the 0 mark then stop, remove the spark plug and finish bring the notch to the 0 mark. The whole point of this exercise is to find Top Dead Center of Cylinder Number 1 on the Compression Stroke. This is necessary for proper installation of the distributor. If you are unable to find any discernible difference in the last half of both revolutions then something is wrong and you can't install the distributor following these instructions. Assuming you successfully found TDC-Number1Cylinder-CompressionCycle proceed. Look down the hole (with a flashlight) where the distributor will go and you will see a slot in the oil pump. We need to line up this slot so that the bottom of the distributor will slip into it. This is trial and error as follows. Put the distributor cap on the distributor - looking down at the top of the distributor rotate the body so that the fork (which is a part of the distributor that the mounting clamp will clamp to) is at the 3 o'clock position. At about the 5 o'clock position is a spark plug wire connector now on the body of the distributor make a mark that lines up with the center of this connector (again at about 5 o'clock). With the distributor cap off and the rotor installed, hold the distributor over the hole where the distributor goes (but not in it yet) and rotate the body of the distributor so that the fork is positioned directly over the bolt hole for the clamp (the clamp must be removed to insert the distributor). Now rotate the rotor so that metal end of the rotor is at about the 3:30 position and lower the distributor while very slightly turning the rotor from 3:15 to 3:45 position you should feel the distributor gear engage with the camshaft in the engine. Now let go of the rotor and push down on the distributor. If the fork doesn't seat against the engine block then the slot in the oil pump isn't line up with the bottom of the distributor (where you will see a tip like a screw driver blade). Pull the distributor back out and stick a long screw driver down the hold to engage the oil pump and turn it so the slot is somewhere around 4 o'clock and reinsert the distributor following the previous instructions. Eventually you should get the distributor to completely seat against the engine block. Now if the rotor end is not centered over the mark made on the distributor body you must pull out the distributor and repeat the insertion process starting with the rotor positioned more clockwise or counterclockwise as needed. When the distributor is properly installed the fork will be splitting the clamp hole and the rotor end will be centered over the mark made on the body of the distributor. Clamp the distributor in position. Installed the distributor cap. Install the spark plugs and spark plug wires.

Jack the car up and take a tire off. You will see the brake caliper fitted over the rotor. You need to take the caliper off by using a 10mm socket, I believe. There are 2 bolts on the back side of the caliper that go through a rubber boot, one on top and one on bottom. Take those bolts out. Then the caliper should come right off. Don't let the caliper hang by the brake line. The brake pads are the flat 'C' shaped things that are on both sides of the rotor. Replace the pads. Then you will need a 5inch clamp to push the piston back in on the caliper. Position the clamp through C shaped opening on the front and the top of the clamp on the back side of the caliper. Be careful not to crimp the brake line. Tighten the clamp until the pistons are flush in the caliper and stop. Do not force the pistons in any further. Next, fit the caliper back over the rotor with the new pads on it and reinstall the 2 bolts you took out to start. Put the tire back on and tighten lugnuts accordingly. You will need to pump your brakes a couple times to get the pistons back out to the rotor and they may, at first, go right to the floor. Just pump them a couple times and they will get hard again. Good luck.

To determine if your pump work, before attempting access from the bottom of the top drawer: You can manually pump the water out by doing the following:
1- Press the Power button to turn off the display.
2- Press the Lock button and then the start button the same tim. Hold them until the display showing up.
3- If the display is not clear with all the characters, press power button to see clear the display.
4- The first display is bL, then Er,Ld..dd, FU, P1, P2...by pressing the Start button to go by the sequence until P2 (drain). If you miss, be patient to continue press and release the start button to get back to P2.
5 When is is at P2, press Lock button to tun on the drain. When you hear the water flowing to the drain, you could pull the top drain to see how the water is draining.
6- When the water is out, press the lock button again to stop it.
7-When it is done, press the Power button to get out of manual mode.

If this is working, then your water is there because you are running the bottom and your air gap allow back flow to the top drawer.
Please let me know if this is not the case.

Test for weak spark when it wont run....my guess is that its the ignition module inside distributer...they heat up and shut off spark,then cool down and work again for a while...good luck..Lee

Thanks for the question On a ge washer If you over load or the washer did not drain fast enough or over suds ing , when the washer starts to spin the forse of the spin will push water up the pressure switch hose causing the washer to start & stop spinning Thanks for the question THe appliance doc