Question about Kenmore Dryers

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What part do I need to replace on my dryer?

The "timed dry" setting works fine, but the "auto moisture sensing plus" setting does not. I turn it on, it heats up,(you can watch the dial turn) and in a few minutes it turns off with wet clothes.

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  • Kenmore Expert
  • 650 Answers

They usually have a moisture sensor in the drum. This could be shorted by lint or possibly just bad. Check there first.

Posted on May 03, 2015

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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milten1
  • 1304 Answers

SOURCE: Kenmore Elite He3 dryer..fine on timed but leaves cloths wet auto

find the metal sensors in the drum
scratchem up with sand paper

especially if you wash rugs, sneakers , or anything with acyrlic

Posted on Oct 06, 2009

  • 156 Answers

SOURCE: Whirlpool Duet Dryer, Dampness sensing only partially working.

inside dryer there is 2 metal strips clean tham off with a eraser if that dont cure it make sure vent clean going out of your home if both are done and still does it depends on dryer if its a sencer are control board

Posted on Jun 03, 2010

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Kenmore Elite Turning Off before clothes are dry...

Repair of a Kenmore Electric Dryer Model 110.62942100
Dryer not heating

I just spent several hours repairing my electric clothes dryer, and wanted to share my experience with others that may wish to do a similar repair. Some of my time was spent reading online postings similar to this one. The majority of my time was spent driving a few times to the Sears Parts Outlet, until I finally got all of the right parts. I could have saved myself a lot of time and effort by doing some simple testing up front. And these tests are real simple, which I will explain below. I wish I knew then what I know now about the repair and troubleshooting steps. It was actually quite easy.

First, the Owner’s Manual is vague about the repair. Under troubleshooting, there is the category of “Not Drying Satisfactorily” with a possible cause that “One fuse is blown or circuit breaker is tripped. The dryer will appear to operate, but you will not get any heat.” The solution says “Replace fuse or reset breaker”. In my case, the circuit breaker was obviously not tripped since the blower motor and controls were still working on the dryer. With that, it felt like the Thermal Fuse 3390719 was the culprit.

Start by unplugging the dryer. Then, the Toe Panel at the front bottom of the dryer comes off easily by inserting a flat head screwdriver along the top edge of the panel, about 4” from the left and the right sides. Pull forward as the screwdriver presses on the retaining clips. The panel is supported by two clips at the bottom, and will then just lift off.

What I found when the toe panel was removed was several years of lint, dust, and animal hair. A surprising amount all over. Having seen this, I suggest that part of Spring cleaning is to remove the toe panel and vacuum the inside of a dryer. Next, to reach the thermal fuse easier, remove the black metal lint duct assembly. Start by removing the lint screen from inside the dryer. Then, remove the two ¼” sheet metal screws on the left and the right of the duct. Now, the only thing holding the lint duct in place is a metal clip at the bottom left, which is pinched in place to the dryer frame. I used a flat head screwdriver to pop it off. The lint duct assembly can now be removed. Here also, I was surprised at how much lint had built up inside the duct. Clean it out thoroughly. Any build up can restrict air flow and waste energy, or be a direct cause to the No Heat problems of the dryer due to poor air flow and heat build up.

With the lint duct out of the way, the thermal fuse is accessible on the top right of the blower housing, as well as the Thermistor 3976615 on its right. What I should have done right here is take the blue wires off of the thermal fuse connectors, and tested it in place for continuity with the fuse still in place. Clean off any dust built up on the inner face of the fuse itself. A basic tester sounded a beep when I touched both connectors, which indicates continuity – or that it is still a good fuse. Install new fuse if needed, and reconnect the wires.

I would do a little more testing first prior to attempting to turn the dryer back on. After all, if the fuse blew, there was a reason. There may still be other things to consider, and you don’t want to risk blowing a brand new fuse.

At this point, I firmly recommend removing the Heater Box and Wire Heater Element assembly. I say this because it actually becomes easier to clean out burnt lint as well as test a few more things. There was enough lint all around and inside this and in the back of the assembly that could have caused overheating due to poor sensor readings.

Start by removing the heat plate at the front. Then, disconnect the six wires from the three devices: heater element, Thermal Cut-Off 3977394 and the Thermostat 3390291. I wrote down the color sequence of the wires to make certain to put them back on the same way. Next, remove the two screws at the bottom of the mounting plate that holds the assembly in place. The heat assembly should now wiggle around some, and be connected at the back of the dryer. There are no screws at the back – all you need to do is rotate the heater assembly counter clockwise about a quarter turn, and it should come out. The entire heater assembly can now be removed from the dryer.

With the Greenlee, I tested for continuity on all three devices: Heater Element, Thermal Cut-Off, and the Thermostat. All three should return an audible beep from the tester, indicating continuity exists. In my case, only the Heater Element was bad and actually had a break in it from overheating. One screw holds the heater element in the housing, so it is easily removed. I had to press on the housing a little to unbind the sides of the heater element, and then it slid right out. The housing can now be cleaned out. Assuming the thermal cut-off and the thermostat tested fine for continuity, all I would do is reach inside the heater housing and clean off the lint and dust build up on these devices, since they appear to be working. Install the new heater element.

While I had everything apart, I cleaned out the flexible duct in the back, vacuumed everywhere inside and out, and even used compressed air to clean out any remaining lint and dust that I could. Reassemble the heater box into the dryer in reverse order. Make sure all of the wires are properly reconnected to all of the devices. Make sure everything is screwed back together properly. Now, reassemble the lint duct by attaching the clip to the dryer and setting the duct in place, and then screwing the two screws back in place. Plug the dryer in and turn it on. If all went well, the heater element should glow orange and there should be heat

Posted on Jul 23, 2010

  • 2468 Answers

SOURCE: My Maytag dryer LDE7304ACE will

try cleaning the moisture sensor bars just inside the door and below the door,with isopropyl alcohol of course after unplugging the unit for fire safety,these 2 chrome colored bars detect the moisture in the clothes and when they are wet they slow or even completely stop the timer,as they dry they let the timer again move,if they get a film on them they will not operate the timer correctly,they work on capacitance

Posted on Apr 27, 2011

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1 Answer

Auto cycle does not work timed cycle works fine


In some dryer's the control panel relies on a thermistor rather than a CYCLING thermostat to regulate the drum's air temperature by monitoring the component's resistance changes; resistance goes down as temperature increases and up when temperature decreases. Once the drum's air temperature reaches a certain level required to dry clothes, the control panel shuts off the heater. The panel will turn the heater on again and begin another heating cycle when the thermistor indicates that more heat is needed to keep the air temperature constant inside the drum

Lastly check your moister sensor. ( located inside the dryer door usually) Especially if machine seems to shut down early and clothes are still wet.
Test with a meter at room temperature and it should show continuity.
A failed moisture sensor will affect the dryer run time in the automatic moisture sensing cycle but it will not affect the heating of the dryer or the timed cycle. Which are reflected by the thermostats.

Read more :http://www.ehow.com/info_12203962_check-dryer-thermistor.html

Apr 15, 2015 | Kenmore Dryers

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Gas dryer does not dry in "timed Dry" setting


In some dryer's the control panel relies on a thermistor rather than a CYCLING thermostat to regulate the drum's air temperature by monitoring the component's resistance changes; resistance goes down as temperature increases and up when temperature decreases. Once the drum's air temperature reaches a certain level required to dry clothes, the control panel shuts off the heater. The panel will turn the heater on again and begin another heating cycle when the thermistor indicates that more heat is needed to keep the air temperature constant inside the drum

Lastly check your moister sensor. ( located inside the dryer door usually) Especially if machine seems to shut down early and clothes are still wet.
Test with a meter at room temperature and it should show continuity.
A failed moisture sensor will affect the dryer run time in the automatic moisture sensing cycle but it will not affect the heating of the dryer or the timed cycle. Which are reflected by the thermostats.

Read more :http://www.ehow.com/info_12203962_check-dryer-thermistor.html

Mar 06, 2015 | Whirlpool LGB6300 Gas Dryer

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My roper dryer works fine, it heats and the timer advances, it just wont shut off at the the end of a timed dry or auto dry. What do you think?


A timed drying cycle uses the timer alone to stop the drying cycle. Once it times out like an egg timer a set of contacts open up shutting off the dryer. Or a set of contacts closes to activate a relay which in turn shuts off the power.
Auto dry usually uses a moisture sensor which would do the same thing as the timer. Once it doesnt sense moisture in the load for a predetermined time it in turn triggers a relay which shuts the power off. Some auto dry cycles just use the timer alone and guess-timate the drying time by the selection.
If yours does not use a moisture sensor then most likely it is your timer/cycle switch. There may or may not be a relay involved.
Most dryers have a basic wiring diagram on the inside somewhere on one of the panels which will help.
Since yours is acting up on both cycles Im guessing you have a bad relay or connection to that relay somewhere IF it uses a moisture sensor.

Dec 17, 2014 | Roper Dryers

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Whirlpool gas dryer (WGD9450WR1) not drying on auto-cycles


try cleaning the 2 silver senser bars located inside the dryer drum on the door side with isopropyl alcohol and lint free wipes,these bars sense moisture and control timer speed,and when they get coated with the chemicals in dryer sheets they become coated and can no longer sense the damp clothes (these sensers use capacitance to sense moisture)

Feb 18, 2012 | Dryers

1 Answer

My dryer does not completely dry the clothes when we use the dryness sensing option. It does fine when we use the timer. Is there a moisture sensor that I might be able to replace ?


Dryers with electronic control and auto dry cycle indeed use moisture sensors for the auto drying to work. The problem is absolutely associated with the failure of the moisture sensors, especially when the timed dry cycle works fine. Either the connection of the sensors to the electronic control is loose or the sensors are covered with thin film that prevents it to sense the proper moisture content of the clothes.

Clean the moisture sensor bars thoroughly and make sure its connections are snug fit. Reseat the connections several times to clean off dirt and corrosion build up in the connectors and terminals. The last thing to look into is the electronic control if all resort fail to address the issue, that is, clean sensor bars and good terminal connections.

Indicate the exact model number of the dryer should you need further or more specific troubleshooting and repair advice.

Jun 12, 2010 | Estate TEDX640JQ Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Blinking AD


AD is auto dry you may need to clean the sensor or you may have a fauilty one ...Auto Dry Loads dried using the Towels, Heavy Duty, Normal, Perm Press, and Delicates cycles will dry automatically at the selected temperature to the desired dryness level. The dryer uses sensing bars to sense the moisture level of the load as it tumbles through heated air. Auto Dry cycles save time and energy and protect fabrics. The estimated drying time will be displayed for about 5 minutes, then the outside of the display will light up in a circular track to indicate the drying time is automatically being determined by the sensors. When the load has reached the selected dryness level, it will continue to tumble, unheated, during a Cool Down period. This helps reduce wrinkling and makes items easier to handle during unloading. The estimated Cool Down time will be displayed. Drying time varies depending on size and dampness of load and fabric type. If the load is too small or almost dry, the sensing bars may not detect enough moisture to continue the cycle and the cycle may end after a few minutes. Select a Timed Dry setting to dry such loads. Room temperature and humidity, type of installation and electrical voltage or gas pressure can also affect drying time. For cycle selection turn the knob on the front of the dryer control panel. The light will illuminate next to the cycle selected. The following is a brief description for what cycles should be chosen for certain items and materials to be dried.

Sep 18, 2009 | Frigidaire GLEQ2152ES Electric Dryer

2 Answers

DRYER RACK DOES NOT DRY CLOTHES


try timed dry cycle instead of the auto-sensing setting. In your drum if you have auto dry such as less dry normal dry and more dry, There is a sensor sometimes in the drum and sometimes in the exhaust right after the blower. If in the drum then your clothes brush by this and if moisture is sensed then it keeps on drying. With your rack the clothes can't touch the sensor so it tells your dial to turn and that items are dry which in fact are not. Try this and see how it does.

Feb 17, 2009 | Samsung 7.3 Cu. Ft. 9-Cycle Electric Dryer...

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it can work on timed dry with out the strips. they are only in use during auto dry cycle

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Check your breakers. Mine was doing the same thing, all of the 120v parts of the machine were working. (blower/drum motor/ lights) However the element wasn't coming on. Went to the breaker and found that one side of the 2 pole breaker was tripped. Turned both off and back on. Heater started working again.

When you set the dryer on settings such as normal or permanent press, it engages the various sensors that help the dryer to make the most efficient use of energy. Moisture sensor, heat sensor etc. (THAT IS WHAT TURNS ON YOUR AD SETTING) Normally it selects a time based on factory settings that it believes your load should be dried by. Say 50 minutes at Normal (high heat, normal) Every so often during the cycle, the machine will check the humidity sensor and the other sensors and try to see if the dryer is still on schedule. Sometimes it will determine that more time is needed, occasionally less time. While it calculates, it displays the Ad meaning that the machine is on auto dry. TO TURN OFF AUTO DRY, set it to a time setting instead of a DESCRIPTION setting.

Oct 26, 2007 | Frigidaire GLEQ2152ES Electric Dryer

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