How do I find a replacement engine for jd212 - Garden

SYMPTOM 1: ROUGH IDLE IN THE COLD

The engine will not idle smoothly, or it stalls during idle when the engine is cold. When the engine is cold and you take your foot off the gas pedal, the engine runs very rough and may even stall. When you run the engine at higher speeds, it seems to run fine, or at least it runs more smoothly.
Possible causes:

1. If you have a carburetor, you may have a bad accelerator pump or power circuit.
   The Fix: Replace accelerator pump or replace the carburetor.
2. There may be a vacuum leak.
   The Fix: Check and replace the vacuum lines as required.
3. There may be some type of ignition problem.
   The Fix: Check and replace the distributor cap, rotor, ignition wires, and spark plugs.
4. The ignition timing may be set wrong.
   The Fix: Adjust the ignition timing.
5. There may be a fault in the computerized engine control system.
   The Fix: Check engine control systems with a scan tool. Test the circuits and repair or replace components as required.

1. The EGR valve may be bad.
   The Fix: Replace the EGR valve.
2. The engine may have mechanical problems.
   The Fix: Check the compression to determine the engine's condition.
3. Idle speed is set incorrectly.
   The Fix: Set idle speed to the car's original settings.
4. The fuel injectors may be dirty.
   The Fix: Clean or replace the fuel injectors.

SYMPTOM 2: ROUGH IDLE WITH WARM ENGINE

The engine will not idle smoothly, or it stalls during idle when the engine is warm. When the engine is warm or hot and you take your foot off the gas pedal, the engine runs very rough and may even stall. When you run the engine at higher speeds, it seems to run fine.
Possible causes:

1. If you have a carburetor, you may have a bad accelerator pump or power circuit.
   The Fix: Replace accelerator pump or replace the carburetor.
2. There may be a vacuum leak.
   The Fix: Check and replace vacuum lines as required.
3. The fuel pressure regulator may be operating at too low a pressure.
   The Fix: Check the fuel pressure with a fuel pressure gauge. Replace fuel pressure regulator. (This is not really a do-it-yourself kind of job.)
4. Idle speed set incorrectly.
   The Fix: Set idle speed to specs.
5. There may be some type of ignition problem.
   The Fix: Check and replace distributor cap, rotor, ignition wires and spark plugs.
6. There may be a fault in the computerized engine control system.
   The Fix: Check engine control systems with a scan tool. Test circuits and repair or replace components as required. (This is not really a do-it-yourself kind of job.)
7. The EGR valve may be bad.
   The Fix: Replace EGR valve.

1. The engine may have mechanical problems.
   The Fix: Check compression to determine engine condition.
2. The fuel injectors may be dirty.
   The Fix: Clean or replace fuel injectors.

SYMPTOM 3: FAST IDLING

The engine idles too fast. After the engine has run long enough to become warm, the idle speed does not come down to normal. You really notice it when you come to a stop and must have to push ******* the brake pedal to keep the car from moving.
Possible causes:

1. If you have a carburetor, you may have a bad accelerator pump or power circuit.
   The Fix: Replace the accelerator pump or replace the carburetor.
2. The engine may be overheating.
   The Fix: Check and repair the cooling system.
3. The fuel pressure regulator may be operating at too low a pressure.
   The Fix: Check fuel pressure with a fuel pressure gauge. Replace fuel pressure regulator. (This is not really a do-it-yourself kind of job.)

1. The ignition timing may be set wrong.
   The Fix: Adjust the ignition timing.
2. There may be some type of ignition problem.
   The Fix: Check and replace the distributor cap, rotor, ignition wires and spark plugs.
3. There may be a fault in the computerized engine control system.
   The Fix: Check the engine control systems with a scan tool. Test the circuits and repair or replace the components as required.
4. There may be a vacuum leak.
   The Fix: Check and replace vacuum lines as required.
5. You have a bad idle speed control unit.
   The Fix: Replace the idle speed control unit.
6. The alternator may not be working properly.
   The Fix: Replace the alternator.

SYMPTOM 4: STALLING UPON STOPPING

Car stalls when stopped quickly. You are driving along and everything is just fine ... until you let off the gas pedal and apply the brakes. The engine starts shaking and may even stall. Not a good thing to happen because you lose power steering when the engine dies and could risk an accident.
Possible causes:

1. There may be a serious vacuum leak.
   The Fix: Check and replace the vacuum lines as required.
2. There may be a fault in the computerized engine control system.
   The Fix: Check the engine control systems with a scan tool. Test the circuits and repair or replace the components as required. (This is not really a do-it-yourself kind of job.)
3. Broken linkage.
   The Fix: Repair or replace the linkage as required.

Idling issues can be very frustrating, but with some patient troubleshooting, you'll have a real chance at figuring it out. Remember to always check your engine idle with the air conditioning and defroster turned off, as both of these systems are designed to change the idle when they are on due to the air conditioning system's demands on the engine.

(391) Automatic Transmission Fluid Temperature (TFT) Sensor
Inside the transmission behind side cover
Removal Procedure
Remove the case side cover. Refer to Control Valve Body Cover Replacement .

Important: Lock steering wheel in centered position with wheels straight ahead.
Remove the engine dress cover.
Remove the air cleaner intake duct. Refer to Air Cleaner Inlet Duct Replacement in Engine Controls - 3.1L or Air Cleaner Inlet Duct Replacement in Engine Controls - 3.8L.
Remove the engine mount struts. Refer to Engine Mount Strut Replacement in Engine Mechanical - 3.1L or Engine Mount Strut Replacement - Right Side and Engine Mount Strut Replacement - Left Side in Engine Mechanical - 3.8L.
Important: For supercharged engines, remove the throttle cable bracket.
Disconnect the shift cable bracket.
Remove the transaxle top side cover bolt.
Install the engine support fixture. Refer to Engine Support Fixture in Engine Mechanical - 3.1L or Engine Support Fixture in Engine Mechanical - 3.8L.
Disconnect the transmission wiring harness connector.
Raise and support the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle in General Information.
Remove the left front tire and wheel assembly. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation in Tires and Wheels.
Remove the left inner splash shield 3 push pins.
Loosen the wheel speed sensor harness from the 5 retainers at the cradle.
Remove the transmission support to cradle nuts only. Refer to Transmission Mount Replacement .
Raise the vehicle.
Remove the front splash shield 5 bolts.
Loosen the engine mount lower nuts. Refer to Engine Mount Bracket Replacement in Engine Mechanical - 3.1L or Engine Mount and Bracket Replacement in Engine Mechanical - 3.8L.
Remove the stabilizer bolts and reposition the stabilizer.
Remove the steering gear cradle bolts, then support gear before lowering cradle.
Support the left side of the frame with a jackstand.
Remove the left side frame bolts. DO NOT loosen the right front or the right rear frame bolts. Refer to Frame Replacement in Frame and Underbody.
Remove the left ball joint from the steering knuckle.
Position the drain pan under the transaxle.
Remove the left drive axle from the transaxle. Refer to Wheel Drive Shaft Replacement in Drive Axle.
Secure the drive axle to the steering knuckle/strut.
Adjust the jackstand to lower the left side of the frame until it hangs free. Remove jack stand.
Lower vehicle to access engine support fixture.
Lower the engine/transmission assembly with the engine support fixture to gain access to remaining side cover bolts.
If replacing the side cover, remove 4 engine mount bracket bolts.
Remove the harness retainer.
Raise vehicle to access side cover bolts.
Remove the case side cover bolts (56-58).
Remove the case side cover pan (53).
Remove the case side cover gasket (54).
Clean the case.
Clean the side cover gasket mating surfaces.

Disconnect the wiring harness assembly from the fluid temperature sensor (391).
Remove the fluid temperature sensor (391).
Installation Procedure
Install the fluid temperature sensor (391).
Connect the wiring harness assembly to the with fluid temperature sensor (391).
Install the case side cover. Refer to Control Valve Body Cover Replacement .
Important: It is recommended that transmission adaptive pressure (TAP) information be reset. Resetting the TAP values using a scan tool will erase all learned values in all cells. As a result, The ECM, PCM or TCM will need to relearn TAP values. Transmission performance may be affected as new TAP values are learned.
Reset the TAP values. Refer to Transmission Adaptive Functions .

You will need to read the codes to determined the reason the check engine light is on.
Acura Service Codes

A: Replace Engine Oil
B: Replace Engine Oil and Filter. Inspect various systems and components

1: Rotate Tires and check tire pressure and condition
2: Replace air cleaner element, check drive belt and replace dust and pollen filter
3: Replace transmission fluid and transfer fluid (if equipped)
4: Replace spark plugs, replace timing belt (if equipped), inspect water pump, and inspect value clearance
5: Replace Engine Coolant
6: Replace rear differential fluid (if equipped)

which engine option, you do know belts are not same on all engines right? fact.
2.7L V6 or bigger? IDN.

same on all cars. (answering in generic form do to above)
loosen the tension-er.
take off old
put back new
and if not a spring tension-er,set proper tension
the fSM cover all this.
why not read the manual, RTM?

here is one example (get the book, RTM or see alldata.com)

2008 xl7 engine


Removal Procedure

Remove the air cleaner assembly. Refer to Air Cleaner Assembly Replacement .

Install the engine support fixture. Refer to Engine Support Fixture .

Remove the engine mount strut bracket. Refer to Engine Mount Strut Bracket Replacement - Right Side .

Raise and support the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle .

Remove the engine splash shield. Refer to Engine Splash Shield Replacement - Right Side .

Remove the right side engine mount bracket. Refer to Engine Mount Bracket Replacement - Right Side .

Lower the vehicle


Rotate the drive belt tensioner clockwise to release the drive belt tension.

Slide the drive belt off of the belt idler pulley (1).

Slowly release the drive belt tensioner.

Remove the drive belt from the accessory drive pulleys.

end remove
beg, install



Install the drive belt to the crankshaft pulley, the tensioner and the generator.

Rotate the drive belt tensioner clockwise.

Install the drive belt to the idler pulley (1).

NOTE

Important: Ensure the drive belt is properly aligned and seated into the grooves of the accessory drive pulleys.

Slowly release the drive belt tensioner.

Raise the vehicle.

Install the right side engine mount bracket. Refer to Engine Mount Bracket Replacement - Right Side .

Install the engine splash shield. Refer to Engine Splash Shield Replacement - Right Side .

Lower the vehicle.

Install the engine mount strut bracket. Refer to Engine Mount Strut Bracket Replacement - Right Side .

Remove the engine support fixture. Refer to Engine Support Fixture .

Install the the air cleaner assembly. Refer to Air Cleaner Assembly Replacement .
end.

sounds to me like these came on the replacement engine and should be paid for by the dealership, didnt they keep the old engine and why cant they take the parts of it?

These maintenance intervals come from the maintenance interval calculator
at www.autozone.com, using a starting point of 25,800 miles (43000 km), and
assuming 1000 miles (1666 km) driven per month, and "severe driving conditions," which
are actually normal usage characteristics, such as frequent short trips, urban driving, waiting in traffic, driving in hot weather, trips under 16 km in cold weather, etc.

STARTING MILEAGE: 25800 (43,000 Kilometers)
Item
Action
Service History

20000 miles or 32000 kilometers

Battery Check
Oil Filter, Engine Replace
Engine Oil Replace
Vehicle Inspect
Brakes and Traction Control Inspect
Tires Rotate


21000 miles or 33600 kilometers

Steering and Suspension Lubricate
Oil Filter, Engine Replace
Engine Oil Replace


24000 miles or 38400 kilometers

Steering and Suspension Lubricate
Oil Filter, Engine Replace
Engine Oil Replace


25000 miles or 40000 kilometers

Battery Check
Oil Filter, Engine Replace
Engine Oil Replace
Vehicle Inspect
Brakes and Traction Control Inspect
Tires Rotate


27000 miles or 43200 kilometers

Steering and Suspension Lubricate
Oil Filter, Engine Replace
Engine Oil Replace


30000 miles or 48000 kilometers

Battery Check
Air Filter Element Check
Wheel Bearing Lubricate
Steering and Suspension Lubricate
Fuel Filter Replace
Oil Filter, Engine Replace
Engine Oil Replace
Fluid - A/T Replace
Cabin Air Filter Replace
Vehicle Inspect
Brakes and Traction Control Inspect
Cooling System Inspect
Wheel Bearing Inspect
Ball Joint Inspect
Drive/Propeller Shaft Inspect
Exhaust System Inspect
Steering and Suspension Inspect
Heat Shield, Exhaust Inspect
Tires Rotate


33000 miles or 52800 kilometers

Steering and Suspension Lubricate
Oil Filter, Engine Replace
Engine Oil Replace


35000 miles or 56000 kilometers

Battery Check
Oil Filter, Engine Replace
Engine Oil Replace
Vehicle Inspect
Brakes and Traction Control Inspect
Tires Rotate


36000 miles or 57600 kilometers

Steering and Suspension Lubricate
Oil Filter, Engine Replace
Engine Oil Replace


39000 miles or 62400 kilometers

Steering and Suspension Lubricate
Oil Filter, Engine Replace
Engine Oil Replace


40000 miles or 64000 kilometers

Battery Check
Oil Filter, Engine Replace
Engine Oil Replace
Vehicle Inspect
Brakes and Traction Control Inspect
Tires Rotate



42000 miles or 67200 kilometers

Steering and Suspension Lubricate
Oil Filter, Engine Replace
Engine Oil Replace


45000 miles or 72000 kilometers

Battery Check
Steering and Suspension Lubricate
Fuel Filter Replace
Oil Filter, Engine Replace
Engine Oil Replace
Cabin Air Filter Replace
Vehicle Inspect
Brakes and Traction Control Inspect
Cooling System Inspect
Wheel Bearing Inspect
Ball Joint Inspect
Drive/Propeller Shaft Inspect
Steering and Suspension Inspect
Tires Rotate


48000 miles or 76800 kilometers

Steering and Suspension Lubricate
Oil Filter, Engine Replace
Engine Oil Replace


50000 miles or 80000 kilometers

Battery Check
Oil Filter, Engine Replace
Engine Oil Replace
Vehicle Inspect
Brakes and Traction Control Inspect
Tires Rotate


51000 miles or 81600 kilometers

Steering and Suspension Lubricate
Oil Filter, Engine Replace
Engine Oil Replace


54000 miles or 86400 kilometers

Steering and Suspension Lubricate
Oil Filter, Engine Replace
Engine Oil Replace


55000 miles or 88000 kilometers

Battery Check
Oil Filter, Engine Replace
Engine Oil Replace
Vehicle Inspect
Brakes and Traction Control Inspect
Tires Rotate


57000 miles or 91200 kilometers

Steering and Suspension Lubricate
Oil Filter, Engine Replace
Engine Oil Replace


60000 miles or 96000 kilometers

Battery Check
Air Filter Element Check
Wheel Bearing Lubricate
Steering and Suspension Lubricate
Fuel Filter Replace
Spark Plug Replace
Fluid Filter - A/T Replace
Oil Filter, Engine Replace
Engine Oil Replace
Fluid - A/T Replace
Cabin Air Filter Replace
Vehicle Inspect
Brakes and Traction Control Inspect
Cooling System Inspect
Wheel Bearing Inspect
Ball Joint Inspect
Drive/Propeller Shaft Inspect
Exhaust System Inspect
Steering and Suspension Inspect
Heat Shield, Exhaust Inspect
Tires Rotate


63000 miles or 100800 kilometers

Steering and Suspension Lubricate
Oil Filter, Engine Replace
Engine Oil Replace


65000 miles or 104000 kilometers

Battery Check
Oil Filter, Engine Replace
Engine Oil Replace
Vehicle Inspect
Brakes and Traction Control Inspect
Tires Rotate


66000 miles or 105600 kilometers

Steering and Suspension Lubricate
Oil Filter, Engine Replace
Engine Oil Replace


69000 miles or 110400 kilometers

Steering and Suspension Lubricate
Oil Filter, Engine Replace
Engine Oil Replace


70000 miles or 112000 kilometers

Battery Check
Oil Filter, Engine Replace
Engine Oil Replace
Vehicle Inspect
Brakes and Traction Control Inspect
Tires Rotate


72000 miles or 115200 kilometers

Steering and Suspension Lubricate
Oil Filter, Engine Replace
Engine Oil Replace


75000 miles or 120000 kilometers

Battery Check
Air Filter Element Check
Steering and Suspension Lubricate
Fuel Filter Replace
Oil Filter, Engine Replace
Engine Oil Replace
Cabin Air Filter Replace
Vehicle Inspect
Brakes and Traction Control Inspect
Cooling System Inspect
Wheel Bearing Inspect
Ball Joint Inspect
Drive/Propeller Shaft Inspect
Steering and Suspension Inspect
Tires Rotate


78000 miles or 124800 kilometers

Steering and Suspension Lubricate
Oil Filter, Engine Replace
Engine Oil Replace


80000 miles or 128000 kilometers

Battery Check
Oil Filter, Engine Replace
Engine Oil Replace
Vehicle Inspect
Brakes and Traction Control Inspect
Tires Rotate



And you can continue the pattern from there...

Was the engine a new eninge, or a second hand engine..........if it was new, it should be covered under warranty, however, if it was a second hand engine...then this can be classed as general wear and tear and not covered under warranty and therefore an extra cost to you...........

It's listed in your owner's manual. Schedule A is normal driving conditions.
SCHEDULE "A"
7,500 miles (12 000km) or at 6 months
- Change engine oil.
- Replace engine oil filter.

15,000 miles (24 000km) or at 12 months
- Change engine oil.
- Replace engine oil filter.

22,500 miles (36 000km) or at 18 months
- Change engine oil.
- Replace engine oil filter.
- Inspect front wheel bearings.
- Inspect brake linings.

30,000 miles (48 000km) or at 24 months
- Change engine oil.
- Replace engine oil filter.
- Replace engine air cleaner filter.
- Replace spark plugs.
- Drain and refill automatic transmission fluid and filter (4.7L).

37,500 miles (60 000km) or at 30 months
- Change engine oil.
- Replace engine oil filter.
- Drain and refill automatic transmission fluid and filter (5.2L/5.9L).
- Drain and refill transfer case fluid.

45,000 miles (72 000km) or at 36 months
- Change engine oil.
- Replace engine oil filter.
- Inspect front wheel bearings.
- Inspect brake linings.
- Flush and replace engine coolant at 36 months, regardless of mileage.

52,500 miles (84 000km) or at 42 months
- Change engine oil.
- Replace engine oil filter.
- Flush and replace engine coolant if not done at 46 months.

60,000 miles (96 000km) or at 48 months
- Change engine oil.
- Replace engine oil filter.
- Replace engine air cleaner filter.
- Replace ignition cables (5.2L/5.9L).
- Inspect PCV valve, replace as necessary.
- Replace spark plugs.
- Inspect auto tension drive belt and replace as necessary (5.2L/5.9L).
- Drain and refill automatic transmission fluid (4.7L).

67,500 miles (108 000km) or at 54 months
- Change engine oil.
- Replace engine oil filter.
- Inspect front wheel bearings.
- Inspect brake linings.

75,000 miles (120 000km) or at 60 months
- Change engine oil.
- Replace engine oil filter.
- Drain and refill automatic transmission fluid and filter (5.2L/5.9L).
- Drain and refill transfer case.
- Flush and replace engine coolant if it has been 30,000miles (48 000km) or 24 months since last change.
- Inspect auto tension drive belt and replace if required.

82,500 miles (132 000km) or at 66 months
- Change engine oil.
- Replace engine oil filter.
- Flush and replace engine coolant if it has been 30,000miles (48 000km) or 24 months since last change.

90,000 miles (144 000km) or at 72 months
- Change engine oil.
- Replace engine oil filter.
- Replace engine air cleaner filter.
- Replace spark plugs.
- Inspect front wheel bearings.
- Inspect brake linings.
- Inspect auto tension drive belt and replace as necessary.
- Drain and refill automatic transmission fluid (4.7L).

97,500 miles (156 000km) or at 78 months
- Change engine oil.
- Replace engine oil filter.

105,000 miles (168 000km) or at 84 months
- Change engine oil.
- Replace engine oil filter.
- Flush and replace engine coolant if it has been 30,000 miles (48 000km) or 24 months since last change.
- Inspect auto tension drive belt and replace if required.

112,500 miles (181 000km) or at 90 months
- Change engine oil.
- Replace engine oil filter.
- Drain and refill automatic transmission fluid and filter (5.2L/5.9L).
- Inspect front wheel bearings.
- Inspect brake linings.
- Flush and replace engine coolant if it has been 30,000 miles (48 000km) or 24 months since last change.

120,000 miles (192 000km) or at 96 months
- Change engine oil.
- Replace engine oil filter.
- Replace engine air cleaner filter.
- Replace ignition cables (5.2L/5.9L).
- Inspect PCV valve, replace as necessary.
- Replace spark plugs.
- Inspect auto tension drive belt and replace as necessary.
- Drain and refill automatic transmission fluid (4.7L).

Thanks for using FixYa -a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.

Considerations
1. Many internal engine problems, such as a blown head gasket, cracked head or cracked piston, can be repaired without having to replace an entire engine.
Potential
2. While taking the time to replace an engine may seem labor-intensive and costly, it will add years to a vehicle's life and will save a car owner from the cost of having to buy a new car.
Benefits
3. Taking a car to a mechanic and replacing an engine with a used engine can cost between $1,000 to $2,000 for parts and labor.
Solution
4. Car owners interested in replacing their engines with new ones can expect to pay anywhere between $2,000 to $4,000.
Speculation
5. For those interested in doing the engine replacement themselves, purchasing specialized tools needed for the job is a cost to consider in addition to the price of a replacement engine.

What code is it?? If your replacement engine is doing the very same thing the old one did...overheating, The problem is most likely the radiator or something besides the engine. When you replaced the engine, did you do it or did a shop take care of it? If a shop did it, they should have checked the condition of the radiator. 50% of the engine replacements that I do, I end up replacing the radiator because that was where the problem initially started.