Question about Refrigerators
Fan usually stops working due to ice obstruction when the defrost terminator has gone out and u get ice build up? u can check the terminator with a multi meter for continuity but do not check at room temperature. stick the terminator in cup of ice water for 20 minutes then check it for continuity, should be closed when cold and open at room temperature.
May also need to check the defrost timer, u can get by and test manually by placing a small screw driver into the tiny slot or hole underneath the timer and turn slowly clockwise till u hear 1 click. this will engage ur defrost cycle in about 15 minutes u should be able to come back and feel the heat in freezer as it melts the ice providing ur terminator is not bad?
Another way to test it is with a multi meter. Remove timer it from fridge and you will see 4 prongs numbered 2,1,4,3 in that order. Place ur meter prong on prong 1 & 3 (if your fridge has a capacitor wired in series with the windings, then u check for micro fares rather than OHMS) If u cannot confirm this test, still try the next.
Take ur meter prong and connect to prong 1 & 4, it should read resistance or ohms ( closed) now remove prongs and place on prong 1 & 2, this should now read infinity or open (no ohms) now take a small screwdriver place it in the tiny hole or slot under the timer. Turn it clockwise slowly till u hear 1 click. Now ur 1& 2 should read closed ( showing ohms or resistance) now place meter prongs on 1 & 4 and you it should now show open ( or no resistance - no ohms) this is how u know ur timer is good, Remember when testing for ohms ADJUST meter to use a high ohms rating in the thousands as the resistance is very high in OHMS. And adjusting to low ohms rating may give a false reading or not show the proper resistance..
Another item to check with a meter is the heating element itself. Located under the evaporator coils. It should show continuity or resistance OHMS WHEN TESTED AT BOTH ENDS OF THE PRONGS .
Lastly check the cold control thermostat with a meter for both OHMS and volts ( VOLTS is a live test with fridge plugged in so be careful) It must show 110 volts. An open or thermostat that reads infinity will not allow the proper cooling and defrosting cycles to operate and may in fact stop anything from happening as if there is no power to the unit?
ALSO CHECK THE AIR FLOW VENT SYSTEM and THERMISTORS At times it can get stuck to far closed or open. Some units feature a digital electric adjusting vent system while others are manually set. Check for any ice build up or other obstruction in the vent damper, see if u can manually open or close it. Some times when u have the settings set to the highest it closes off one area while allowing to much cold air flow to the other area!
THERMISTORS in the freezer and fridge section for continuity OHMS and for amount of OHMS current being put out. In most models around 1300 ( give or take 150 ohms) ohms is required
Posted on Apr 27, 2015
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
The thermostat is not functioning the way it should leading to frost build up. You need to replace it. Should cost you around 40$
Posted on Sep 02, 2008
8yr old? Buy a new one. The cracking sound is from expansion and contraction of the cabinet and ice cooling or defrosting. It can be as simple as a bit of a top up of refrigerant, but can also be that your compressor has worn down the valve plates and therefore is not producing sufficient pressure throught the system.
Posted on Mar 06, 2009
The part that is usually the issue on this model is the defrost thermostat.
I usually test it for continuity while its frosty with an ohm meter. If you don't have an volt/ohm meter, you can get a cheap one at Radio Shack.
It clips on the top right side of your evaporator coil. It is part 23 on the diagram at this website http://content.searspartsdirect.com/lis_png/PLDM/P0070077-00003.png
Let me know if you need anything else
Posted on Apr 26, 2009
The doors not being shut can make it freeze up,Just thaw again and make sure the doors get shut each time and see what happens,just post back details if it doesn't work after thawing
Posted on Aug 05, 2009
With the defrost timer being replaced already it sounds as if the repairman is not looking at the real problem. Unit works for 2 days then things start thawing. Hint Hint... it is not defrosting. There is a heating element inside the freezer section attached underneath the internal tubing that melts the ice every 6 to 8 hours via the defrost timer depending on the defrost timer installed. To prove that it is not defrosting..... just unplug the unit and place a stand fan blowing into the freezer for about 90 minutes. I would bet that once you plug it back in it wil work for 2 days and the problem once again repeats. With 2 calls on the same unit and you still have the same problem I would be calling the service people back and demand they fully troubleshoot the defrosting element and thermostat. Personally this is an unstatisfactory performance of an in home service by a repairman. With the exception of a new part if required, they should wave any labor and service call fees.
Posted on Jan 02, 2010
Testimonial: "Thanks! The repairman also replaced the thermostat, though. What should I ask him to do this time? Replacements were: timer, thermo, timer."
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