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The water spews out of the connection under the tank no matter how tight we tighten it, so we had to put the old noisy one back on there. How do we get the water to go through the Fluidmaster?

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Never continue tightening the bolts inside the tank,remove them and replace the gaskets and replace bolts just barely tight to hold tank firm,,,too much and you break the head

Posted on Apr 27, 2015

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Was there a washer or flare joint. Might have been the wrong type of connector. Look at the old one and compare it.
Those flexible connections have two types.
Hope this helps.

Posted on Apr 27, 2015

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Why is My filter hose leaking at the neck right before connection to tightening hose to filter under the sink.


Sounds like either the hose has a hole in it, it isn't seated right, or it isn't tightened sufficiently at the connection. Most often, leaks by the connection are actually leaks at the connection and the water is running down the pipe a bit. Try turning the water off in the main system or at any valve before the connection and then tightening the connection another quarter turn. While directions caution us to be careful not to tighten too tightly, we must insure that our connections are sufficiently tight so that the water doesn't leak out. You may also take the connection off and make sure you have a layer of plumber's silicon tape on the threads and then put the connection back together, making sure it is tight enough so that there are no leaks. Less likely, but possibly, the hose may have a small hole in it. In this case, the water is likely spurting out of the hole rather than slowly leaking down the pipe.

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1 Answer

Fluidmaster instructions


Turn off water at valve. Drain tank. Remove fill line that goes to bottom of tank. Remove large nut from underneath tank holding in old fill/float valve assembly. Clean area around hole in tank above and below. Get large black washer from kit put onto bottom of fluid-master pipe (lip side down). Place fluid-master into hole from top of tank to check height. Top of fluid-master valve should be even or just a bit below top of tank. To adjust hold head of fluid-master and turn pipe ccw to lengthen, cw to shorten. Once adjusted put into tank. Using large flat nut in kit tighten to tank, making sure its centered in the hole, no part of the float touching the sides of the tank, and that the small nipple on the side where the small black hose will attach is facing towards the overflow pipe. Make it nice and tight, but don\'t break it.Then re attach water supply line you removed earlier, hand tight only. Place pipe clip onto top of overflow pipe (funny looking plastic clip with metal piece attached). Attach small black hose to fill valve nipple on side of valve, other side to funny clip. You may need to cut it shorter so it doesn\'t kink. Tun on water and adjust float if required. Level should be 1/2" below top of overflow pipe.

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1 Answer

Toilet not flushing correctly :why does tank not fill so that it will flush


the fill valve is not letting water in you either have a float that raises up when water is full so when you flush the float drops down letting water in then when water raises it shuts off i would replace the float fill valve and corky flapper.... here is what you do .... first shut water off where it goes up to the tank....... flush commode to empty as much water from tank....... reach up under tank there is a plastic coupling that connects the water supply line to the bottom of the toilet tank...put a small pan under the shut off valve that goes to the toilet some water is going to drain from the tank when you take the coupling loose..... turn the coupling counter clockwise ( use a channel lock adjustable wrench to loosten then had turn) once this is loose you can pull the riser tube away from the tank...... now there is a plastic nut that screws the shaft to the bottom of the tank loosten with channel lock then remove with hand by turning counter clock wise ( you will get a bunch of water flowing down to the pan) remove the entire fill valve , replace with a fluidmaster fill valve ( about 8 bucks from big box store when you take the new fill valve out of the box there is a neopreme seal you must put on the new threaded shaft ( it has an inner ring you may have to punch out) once you put this on you can insert the entire shaft down through the hole in tank then secure with thin nut provided tighten but do not overtighten then put coupling back on,,,,,put the over flow tube on the tit of the fill valve and stick down into over flow ok thats done when you go to big box store purchas a 5 buck corky flapper (red caus it can handle chlorine water better) remove the old one at bottom of tank( just two clips to remove and chain attached to flush lever...install new one be shure chain does not have a lot of slack so it does not fall under flapper seal when you flush......OK YOU ARE DONE TURN WATER ON WATCH TANK FILL LOOK FOR LEAKS TAKE A TOWEL AND DRY ALL AREAS THEN TAKE YOUR HAND AND FEEL FOR LEAKS UNDER TANK AND DOWN TO SHUT OFF VALVE .....CONGRATS YOU DID IT!

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1 Answer

Wiring schematic for a upper thermostat


Jan 2013
1) Copy following links for wiring upper thermostat:
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/WH-w-combined2-1000.jpg
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-water-heater-thermostats.html

2) Thermostat must sit flat against tank wall to read correct temperature, and entire opening must be covered with insulation so cool room temperature will not interfere with temperature reading.
Be sure to put cover back on side of tank for electrical safety, and to prevent any possible fire caused by melted parts and overheating.

3) Tighten wires very tight under screw plate, and make sure only copper wire is used, and all wires under plate are same gauge, do not mix stranded wire and solid wire or stranded will become loose.
Only copper under the screw plate and cut back insulation so no insulation gets under screw plate.
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/Burned-thermostat5-143.jpg

4) Add comment and say what you are doing

Jan 23, 2013 | Rheem Water Heaters

1 Answer

When running, oil is spewing out all over, covering the saw and my clothes. Is there any way to stem or regulate the flow?


Make sure your oil cap is tight & not cross treaded. If loose, any airpressure will force oil out the bottom, even sitting still without running. Sitting over night with an air leak will force all the oil out of your tank and all over . Something like putting a straw in a glass of water, putting your finger over the end and taking the straw out of the water, the water will stay in the straw untill you take your finger off. To oil your chain, push down on the cap to depress the thin plastic oil tank, when your done oiling, the tank will return to its shape, and draw air in from the bottom or where the oil went out, ready for another oiling.

Jun 22, 2011 | Poulan 14" Electric Chainsaw

1 Answer

My eljer tank cracked and I need to install a new tank. How do I just install a new tank? The bowl is fine. Companies are trying to charge me about $300 to do this and I do not have the money. Please...


Let's assume you can buy the tank.
Installation of tank is simple.

If you can buy the eljer tank, you can buy whole new toilet with bowl and tank from home center.

We'll walk through instructions for both options.

1) How to replace tank on existing bowl.
-Tank is attached from underneath with two nuts.
-Turn off water, and hold flush valve down to drain tank
-Water connection is one nut. Follow supply line up to where it connects to tank. Loosen the nut that is around supply line just underneath tank. Pull nut downward and notice a black rubber washer that is probably stuck inside nut, or is stuck at bottom of tank. Make a note of where that nut is because it seals the water line to tank.
-You might also have a flex connector instead of supply tube. In that case, just unscrew flex connect from bottom of flush valve.
-Look beneath the tank and there are two nuts that hold tank to bowl.
-Take off these two nuts. A ratchet and socket is best tool, but you can use crescent wrench. -Notice these nuts are not exceptionally tight, but they are firm.
-Straddle the bowl and hold tank with two hands and lift up. Tank will come right up.
-Notice that on bottom of the tank: there are 2 bolts sticking out and there is a spongy rubber washer. This is the spud washer. Your new tank will have new washer. This washer seals tank to bowl so water doesn't leak when you flush.
-Notice round opening where flush water flows into bowl. Spud washer seals this hole. If you have experienced slow flushing, or if you have hard water, pour several cupfuls of CLR Calcium Lime Rust into the hole. CLR is sold at Home Depot by the gallon for $10.

-Open box to new tank. Find spud washer and fix it to bottom of new tank.
-Now a new tank is slippery, I want you to set boxes on floor nearby so if tank starts slipping, aim toward a box instead of hard tile floor.
-New tank comes with 2 new bolts, with nuts. Look at instruction sheet and see exactly how they want you to connect bolts to tank. Look carefully where they want you to put washers. These washer seal the tank when you tighten bolts.
-Now your spud washer is in place, the bolts are attached to tank and are sticking out of bottom of tank.
-Straddle bowl and lower new tank into place. Make sure spud washer lines up. Bolts line up. And flush valve lines up with supply tube. It's that easy.
-Tighten the nuts. Remember, not too tight. Toilet is not steel. And you can tighten more if there is seeping water.
-Now tank is in place. Raise nut and washer that are on supply tube and tighten nut onto bottom of flush valve. This nut is fairly tight. You might want to buy a new washer.
-If you have a flex line for the water supply, then just connect the flex line.

-Turn water ON a little bit at a time to avoid gusher if something is not correct.
-Use paper towels to check for dripping or seepage beneath tank. Tighten nuts appropriately to end seepage.
-Flush toilet and look for seepage around spud washer.
-You're done.

2) How to install new toilet.
-Remove old tank as shown above.
-Bowl is held to floor with two nuts.
-Ideal world those two nuts come right off and you lift bowl up off the floor.
-Real world, those nuts are rusted and you have to drill through side of the nut and bolt to break it off.
-Lift bowl up.
-Have cardboard ready next to toilet so you can set bowl on something. Or set it in bathtub.
-Bowl will be damp and wax ring is on bottom of bowl and will mess up the floor.
-Notice how the toilet bolts are set in the floor flange. Take photo if needed so you can put it back. It's real simple, but if you have never done this, a photo might help.
-Take putty knife and scrape wax ring off of floor flange. You want it smooth, but you don't clean it.
-New toilet comes with wax ring and bolts, but you might have to buy these at hardware store. Get wax right with gasket. The boxes are marked. Buy two of them.
-Set wax ring in center of floor flange. Gasket goes downward. Rounded side of wax ring goes up.
-Set new toilet bolts into floor flange. Keep bolts straight up using wax from the old wax ring, or from 2nd wax right you purchased.
-Keep bolts straight across from each other.
-Time to set the toilet.
-Stand in front of bowl and grab on either side at point where seat connects.
-Here's the fun part.
-Bowl has to go straight down onto wax ring so you have to be strong enough to hold tank level while aligning tank with bolts, without knocking the bolts down. Like a carnival game.
-Straddle walk toilet while holding it up high enough so it will not knock over the bolts.
-Lower bowl into place going straight down using bolts as guide. Lower a little bit and check one side for alignment and then check other side until bowl is going down and bolts fit through the holes.
-If bolt falls over or gets pushed away, straddle walk toilet back and set bolt straight up again.
-Once bowl is aligned, keep pushing straight down on bowl, and finally use your weight to push bowl to floor. Be careful to keep bowl perpendicular to wall so tank will sit straight.
-Attach bowl to floor with nuts and washers.
-Install tank as shown above.

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Jan 12, 2011 | Eljer 141-0220-00 Toilet Tank White

1 Answer

Tank won't stop filling up...overflow hose just keeps running. i lift up on blue piece and it stops, but starts again once i let go. i just got this toilet in the summer...hard to believe it has problems...


You need to replace tank valve.
See photo of the product:
http://salestores.com/fluidmas.html

Buy this product at hardware store.
Turn off water to toilet.
Flush toilet to empty water from tank.
Under the tank, the tank valve is held with two nuts.
Nut1 seals water line to the valve.
Nut2 seals valve to the tank.

Loosen nut1 and it drops down. You can use same nut for new valve, or use new one that comes with product.
Notice there is a beveled washer stuck in bottom of valve, or stuck inside nut1. Your new valve will have a new beveled washer.
Loosen nut2 and valve come loose and can be lifted out.
When you lift up valve, remaining water will run onto floor so have a pan and towel ready.
Notice on bottom of valve is a rubber washer. This washer seals the valve and tank together so water will not leak.

New valve comes with 2 washers > big one and small one. They are usually attached together, small one inside bigger one, and you have to tear them apart.

Clean opening of sand and dirt.
Supply pipe is sticking up.
Put nut1 and small beveled washer onto the supply pipe, with flat side of washer facing downward and rounded side facing up toward tank.

Put bigger washer on bottom of new valve. Flat part of washer goes to valve, beveled part of washer faces downward to tank.
Set valve in place and notice how washer covers the hole.
Put nut2 on bottom of valve and tighten. As you tighten the nut, valve will rotate inside tank. Make sure float and parts can move freely.
The valve doesn't have to be super tight to seal. Just tighten ia reasonable amount, and you can tighten more later if needed.

Now attach nut1 to bottom of new valve and this will seal supply line going into tank.
This nut has to be fairly tight.
Turn water on.
Valve has adjustments for selecting height of water inside tank.
Use paper towel on bottom of valve to check for leaks.
Leave catch pan under new valve for couple days to make sure there is no dripping.
If water is seeping, then tighten nut1 or nut2 a bit more.
Sometimes the shut off start leaking. Open shut off all the way to see if this solves problem.

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For a price, fixya expert speaks with you over phone while you work on toilet.

Jan 10, 2011 | Jacuzzi BK37959 White Era?? Two-Piece...

1 Answer

How to remove water pump from 1999 pontiac grand am GT


After you drain coolant remove the larger hose at the bottom of over flow tank and the 2 smaller hoses at the top. remove the 1 bolt holding the overflow tank on and remove tank. Next take serpentine belt. Take the 4 bolts off holding on the water pump pulley and remove pulley. Next remove the 5 bolts holding water pump in. Clean water pump housing of old gasket and clean with alcohol or paint thinner to remove any residue. Use a small amount of RTV sealant along with a new gasket and put in the 5 bolts tightening them by hand. Next tighten the bolt a quarter turn at a time until tight.put on pulley, put in overflow tank and attach bolt and 3 hoses .

Sep 24, 2009 | 1999 Pontiac Grand Am GT

1 Answer

Tank wont refill after flushing.


The ball **** controls the water flow into the tank when flushed. If the float is stuck in the up position, the water will not fill the tank or the valve could be defective. If after pushing down the float and observing little or no water you need to replace the ball **** or the water valve is turned off. Turn the water off at the shutoff valve. Put a towel under the water supply hose and unscrew the water supply hose at the bottom of the ball ****. Drain any excess water at the bottom of the tank using a shop towel or paper towels ringing them out when they become saturated with water. Remove the ball **** and replace the old one with a new one available from a hardware store. Make sure to follow instructions on washer placement to avoid leaks. Replace the water supply hose and tighten snugly and be careful not to over tighten to crack any plastic. Turn on the water shutoff valve and adjust the float so the water stops at the tank water line.

Sep 07, 2009 | Kohler Home

1 Answer

How do I install a gerber 21-375 Toilet? It came with no instructions.


The Gerber Ultra Flush Back Outlet toilet, that uses 1.1 Gallons of water to flush?

Just like any common toilet. Install the tank to the bowl of the toilet, set the toilet, install the flush mechanism in the tank, attach the supply line.

1.MAKE SURE you put the two plastic U-shaped spacers on the back of the bowl!
2.Install the round rubber gasket in-between the tank and the bowl.
3.Set the tank down on the bowl. Make sure you have the round gaskets that go up under the bolt heads, then insert the two bolts into the tank, and through the bowl. NOT installing these will cause a leak!

Tighten these bolts down, until the nuts are JUST touching the tank. (There is a flat washer that goes under each nut)
DO NOT tighten one bolt all the way, then tighten the other bolt!!
These bolts MUST be tightened evenly. Tighten one turn on one bolt, then go to the other bolt.
DO NOT overtighten, or you will break the bowl, and/or the tank!

Make sure your toilet flange on the sewer pipe is in good repair, and clean, from the old beeswax ring. It can be messy, even using gloves. Use a flat painters stick to help remove the old wax ring. Scrape off into a old can. The wax thin residue on the floor and flange is fine.
Set the new wax ring in place, remove the plastic liner that comes with the ring. DO NOT leave that thin plastic liner! It's just to install that wax ring!

Install the bolts that hold the bowl to the floor, or reuse the old bolts if they are in good repair.
Tighten EVENLY, and don't overtighten! You can crack the bowl.

Now install the toilet mechanism in the tank.
Here is a 1 Page, Tank to Bowl Installation Guide from Gerber. It is a PDF file. Let it download ALL the way before looking at it.
http://gerberonline.com/fileLib/Toilets%20Ultra%20Flush%20IS.pdf

Should this direct link not work for you, here is the page it came from,
http://www.gerberonline.com/Catalog.aspx?categoryID=2204&itemID=3514

It's on the right side -> Installation Instruction (PDF)

Jul 02, 2009 | Gerber Blades Gerber Ultra Flush White ADA...

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